Milky fuel & moisture in newly rebuilt carbs, Johnson still fails under load

daselbee

Commander
Joined
Jan 20, 2009
Messages
2,765
Re: Milky fuel & moisture in newly rebuilt carbs, Johnson still fails under load

DASELBEE,

Do you have any further thoughts based on the above?

Yes I do, Pete. I feel sick at my stomach....
All this done, and you hint/suggest that the timer base is not moving.

All I can say is YES. The timer base is supposed to move as you advance the throttle.

I am sorry that this wasn't suggested to be checked earlier.

The carbs opening along with the timing advance is all mechanically controlled. If you disconnect the throttle cable where it connects to the lever, with the engine off, you can operate the whole linkage by hand. You will see, as you move the throttle lever, the linkage is connected to the timer base under the flywheel. The timer base should move smoothly thru it's complete range until it hits the WOT stop bumper which is under the front edge of the flywheel, kinda situated to the starboard of center.

What is your timing spec at idle? 4-6 degrees ATDC. What is your WOT timing spec? 18 degrees BTDC.

So the timer base rotates a total of 22-24 degrees as it travels thru it's range. That timing advance is all mechanical.

It is held down with two very large headed pan head screws front and back and two small clips that holds the wires. It rides on a nylon bushing that is usually greased lightly, so the timer base will turn freely. The only way to get to it for re-greasing or to otherwise free it up is to pull the flywheel.
Alot of times the stator has melted, the goo has run down onto the timer base, and it is stuck because of that.

Reach up under the flywheel from the starboard side and see if you can move it by hand. Maybe you will see something obvious that you can fix to get it moving freely again. If not, pull flywheel and free it up.

Stuck timer base will cause the engine to kill when throttle is applied.
 

CoastalPete

Seaman
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
51
Re: Milky fuel & moisture in newly rebuilt carbs, Johnson still fails under load

That was it, stuck timer base, likely from salt water corrosion, engine working now! Kids & I are excited to be back on water. Thank you Daselbee, I learned alot from you and fixed a few things that were wrong with the boat along the way. I would still like to properly thank you if you provide me your address to fromhowell@aol.com. This site rules!

Pete
 

CoastalPete

Seaman
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
51
Re: Milky fuel & moisture in newly rebuilt carbs, Johnson still fails under load

After fixing the timer base my idle is staying high for a long time before it kicks down, any suggestions? The port side head is still much cooler than the starboard, maybe I should check the temp. sensor or check for something clogged?

Thanks,
Pete
 

Ozerimar

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 19, 2010
Messages
34
Re: Milky fuel & moisture in newly rebuilt carbs, Johnson still fails under load

If you are using todays standard fuel the milkish white residue you observed while holding your hand in front of the carbs is atomized fuel. You are OK on this . Your motor is it a 90 DEG ? If so check your magnets as they might be glued on and could have broke or shifted some. If your getting good compression readings all within the 10% target area I would stop there and if you value your outboard I would take it in for service and have it looked at and estimated. You don't want to play russian roulette with your engine and guess. The carb setting on these 2-stroke motors is vital if you miss-adjust a carb by over adjusting it to run too lean or too rich or even a air leak somewhere like the gaskets it could kill your engine in no time. I think it will be cheaper to bring it in and have a pro diagnose it for you and you will have a peace at mind after its fixed right. Then when it is fixed and done report what they found here. :)
 

CoastalPete

Seaman
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
51
Re: Milky fuel & moisture in newly rebuilt carbs, Johnson still fails under load

MORE PROBLEMS...I replaced both thermostats as they were broken causing the fast idle, went out on sat no problems, went out on sun and motor dropped down to about 2700RPM's, ran fine but when in idle would stall due to low idle. Let it cool off thinking maybe SLOW kicked in but same problem, took it to shop and they say the brand new CDI power pack I replaced 2 weeks ago is bad, no output on cylinders 2, 4 & 6, funny, I replaced pack 2 weeks agao because low output on cylinders 2&6. They want to replace but I will have CDI give me a replacement. I am very worried why it failed so soon, is this common with CDI, I thought they were good, wondering if something on the engine is bad causing the power pack to fail such as a ground, rectifier or timer base?

What should I do, have shop remove power pack, mail back to CDI and have shop reinstall and then go from there and/or have shop check to see what is causing power pack to fail?

HELP,
Pete
 
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