Milky oil

[SeaRayboater95]

You really need a pressure gauge to accurately measure if the water passages hold pressure. A fuel pressure gauge will work.

I had a proper radiator test kit with a hand pump. Pump it up to 10lbs and I could see really small bubbles coming from under the tape. Took about 15 minutes to loose the 10 lbs.

Ken

 

[SeaRayboater95]

Maybe I'll cut that hose off above the hole and test again. I hope I can still get that hose. It needs to be replaced anyway. I didn't hear any air moving at all. I pumped it up a couple times.

Ken

 

[Lou C]

You’re in fresh water I’m thinking right? Has the exhaust ever been worked on?

 

[SeaRayboater95]

Yes, in fresh water. I dont think they have ever been off. Customer has doe zero maintenance since he has owned the boat. I replaced all the stuff listed earlier and was going to water test it when I discovered the milky oil. He is quite discouraged by the amount of money has spent already and is not happy about this problem. Want to be sure this is the problem and get this boat out of my shop! Lol

 

[alldodge]

Your doing good
Pressurize to 15 psi to where it will hold and maintain. If it holds and then good

 

[SeaRayboater95]

Ok. I guess I'll cut that hose off and pressure test from there. Looks like it rubbed through on the water pump belt. The previous owner repaired it with tape. Thats the story my customer is sticking too! Lol

 

[SeaRayboater95]

Mornin' evrybody. Off to get some oil to fliush this motor. Is there a preferred grade to flush with. I would think a thinner grade like a OW20 or something would move through engine better. Thoughts?

Ken

 

[alldodge]

For flushing find what ever is cheapest, your not going to put the motor under load so no issue. Do agree lower weight like 10w30, could use 0w20 but that's synthetic and probably cost more

 

[SeaRayboater95]

For flushing find what ever is cheapest, your not going to put the motor under load so no issue. Do agree lower weight like 10w30, could use 0w20 but that's synthetic and probably cost more

Thanks,

Ken

 

[SeaRayboater95]

One more question for now. Do I need to remove those brand new exhaust flippers while running the engine for 30 seconds with no water? Hate to burn them up.

Ken

 

[Scott06]

Mornin' evrybody. Off to get some oil to fliush this motor. Is there a preferred grade to flush with. I would think a thinner grade like a OW20 or something would move through engine better. Thoughts?

Ken

super tech or rotella what ever is cheapest. you can drop 3 qts in and let it idle get a couple filters and gallons of oil.

 

[Lou C]

One more question for now. Do I need to remove those brand new exhaust flippers while running the engine for 30 seconds with no water? Hate to burn them up.

Ken

Well that's a gamble, I would though. If one falls down the Y pipe you'll wish you did.

 

[SeaRayboater95]

Ok, found something new. Pressurized cooling system again and can hear air moving in the intake through the carb. I guess pull intake first. Got oil and filters for flush, do I need to flush it first or how long can it wait? Would you still remove exhaust manifolds if intake is damaged?

Ken

 

[nola mike]

Ok, found something new. Pressurized cooling system again and can hear air moving in the intake through the carb. I guess pull intake first. Got oil and filters for flush, do I need to flush it first or how long can it wait? Would you still remove exhaust manifolds if intake is damaged?

Ken

Guess it depends on how fast you can get a new manifold. if you flush with the engine running you're just going to end up with more water in there. Either drain and circulate like AD said or wait till you can get the manifold and then run it. Freshwater, and you've found a leak...I'd repair, pressure test again, and send it. Just wouldn't want it to sit all winter.

 

[Lou C]

Just a wild guess here but if pressuring the cooling passages puts air into the actual intake manifold air passages then I’m thinking more of a crack in the cyl head near an intake port. Don’t see how a problem with the intake manifold would cause this.

 

[SeaRayboater95]

Just a wild guess here but if pressuring the cooling passages puts air into the actual intake manifold air passages then I’m thinking more of a crack in the cyl head near an intake port. Don’t see how a problem with the intake manifold would cause this.

Hmmmmm. Could it be as simple as a gasket? Well I guess I will flush it out because I wont be able to once I disassemble it. Customer may not want to spend the money once we figure out what it needs. At least its clean then and can sit for a bit if neccessary.

Ken

 

[Lou C]

I can’t see how even a leaky intake gasket would put air into the fuel/air passage in the manifold but I can see how a crack in a cyl head in a cooling passage right near the intake port (behind an intake valve) might. A head gasket, possible depending on how it blew. Problem is:
You’d have to pull off the exhaust; intake and heads; & take the heads to a machine shop to check for cracks. Was this boat ever overheated? Chevy small block heads do crack from bad overheats although the block usually survives.
If you have to justify the work you can start with the exhaust; if it’s good then you can make a case for going farther.