Re: Motor got hot smelled electrical burrning
Well, that's gonna make it harder.
You might try connecting a hose to the water input part of each manifold/riser and see if you get any reduction in flow through it.
If the riser is severely clogged you will actually pressurize the riser with hose pressure. and the flow of water at the exhaust end will be lower.
There should be NO reduction in flow of water though the manifold-riser.
It'll be very hard to tell if there's any internal leaks (into the exhaust tubes) unless you can actually use a little mirror and look while running the water.
There's other ways to check for internal cracks by positioning the manifold/riser with the exhaust -UP, capping water-IN connection and filling with a solvent like Lacquer Thinner or Acetone. (the tiny molecules of thinner will find cracks and seep though them)
If you have fairly old manifold/risers and they're rusty inside or you suspect/discover cracks, they should be replaced.
Salt water manifolds and risers should be replaced far more often than manifolds used only in fresh water. Fresh water manifolds will last for many years. Salt (raw) water manifolds can be junk in 3-5 years...........
A small leak in the exhaust area of a riser/manifold allows water to leak back into an open exhaust valve after every shutdown.
If the engine sits for a long time after shutdown (like after winterization), you don't discover it until Spring when the engine will not turn-over because that cyl is rusted solid!!
Cheers,
Rick
