Motor Still Won't Fire After New Ignition Components and Carb Rebuild

[adt2]

Re: Motor Still Won't Fire After New Ignition Components and Carb Rebuild

Well I suck at this... Okay, so I'll pull the flywheel (again), clean the grease, polish it all up, and re-install. Going to have to postpone the lake trip tomorrow anyway; the "seals" under the oil fill and drain plugs weren't so much "seals" as they were "eleventy-billion tiny bits of black plastic crud" that had to be scraped out with a pick. There will be no re-using them, so I'll have to either find some locally or order online.

 

[nwcove]

Re: Motor Still Won't Fire After New Ignition Components and Carb Rebuild

dont postpone because of the lack of washers on the drain plugs ( or i should say....i wouldnt), if its only a couple of hours max on the water, id just bring along some gear oil and a screw driver and have a look when you get to your destination, many lu's leak a bit and only get fresh oil as compared to an "in season" reseal. jmo

 

[Daviet]

Re: Motor Still Won't Fire After New Ignition Components and Carb Rebuild

A crude fix, use something like a milk jug or bleach bottle and cut a couple out. It woun't look pretty, but will get the job done until you can get the correct ones.

 

[adt2]

Re: Motor Still Won't Fire After New Ignition Components and Carb Rebuild

Okay, pulled the flywheel and cleaned off all the gunk, polished everything up with emery paper, and reassembled. Then I attacked the gear oil project. Now, I'm no physics professor, but I can't see how I'm supposed to make the oil flow uphill? Do I just resign myself to the fact that this is a horribly messy task, and the oil leaking back out of the hole and all over me is normal? Also, how many of those caulk-tube-sized containers of gear oil should I need? I have one (which is almost empty now - some in the motor, a bunch on the floor).

Also, I'm being told offline (by the same old guy that helped me get her running this morning) that re-sealing the lower unit on this thing is going to make me take up religion, that it's time consuming, nasty, and requires special tools. Any of this jive with y'alls experience? I really haven't looked into that project. I explained that this (putting new oil in) was just a temporary fix so we could enjoy the boat just a little after months of building and now weeks of motor repair, and he frowned at me over the phone and said that was like adding water to the axle of my car every time I pulled out of the driveway. Clearly, he does not approve of your methods.

 

[Daviet]

Re: Motor Still Won't Fire After New Ignition Components and Carb Rebuild

Well, everybody has their own opinion, that's what makes the world go around.
Now to filling your lower unit. If you are using the tubes, on the end of the tube is a tapered end. Just cut a little off so that you still have the taper. Not knowing how much oil you need, I would have two tubes ready. Insert the tapered end into the lower hole and roll the tube like a tooth paste tube until it is empty. Now very quickly swap the tubes and finish filling the gearcase. When the oil comes out of the top hole, insert the top screw while holding the tube in place, that will form a vacume in the gearcase so you can install the lower screw without loosing to much oil. And yes it is a messy job. Next time look into one of the pumps that screw onto a quart bottle and the other end screws into the lower unit, not so messy.

 

[nwcove]

Re: Motor Still Won't Fire After New Ignition Components and Carb Rebuild

+1^^^^, filling with a tube is messy and wastefull, but not as bad as it seems. you will wish you had more hands, but many of us do it ! as far as resealing, you dont know if it needs seals just yet, could be just the lack of washers ( but not likely). search the forums, and ask questions about that job, many guys have made the "special" tools from everyday odds n ends. jmo....run it and enjoy a few hours on the water.

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Motor Still Won't Fire After New Ignition Components and Carb Rebuild

Here are some handy lower unit gear oil pics and links.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=neYroHtSheQ

 

[adt2]

Re: Motor Still Won't Fire After New Ignition Components and Carb Rebuild

...search the forums, and ask questions about that job, many guys have made the "special" tools from everyday odds n ends...

What is that "job" called? Rebuilding the lower unit? Repacking? Re-sealing? I'm not sure what's involved, so I'm not sure what to search for.

 

[Daviet]

Re: Motor Still Won't Fire After New Ignition Components and Carb Rebuild

Resealing the lower unit. Basicly you are going to replace the seals and o-rings in the lower unit.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Motor Still Won't Fire After New Ignition Components and Carb Rebuild

On some motors, especially the newer/larger hp engines, the job is much harder, and require some special tools.

On the old 50s OMCS, it is a piece of cake. But depends on your mechanical ability. You can get by without any special tools, but there are a couple that will make things much easier.

The first is a generic seal puller. This is for the drive shaft seal. You could simply mangle it without though, just be careful not to damage the housing.

The second is a tool for removing the shift rod bushing. There are items you may find around your shop that will work. I have used some interesting things when in a pinch. F_R on this forum makes a tool especially for this.

 

[webrx]

Re: Motor Still Won't Fire After New Ignition Components and Carb Rebuild

Just my $.02 cents, since I didn't see it mentioned, it appears you have a wobbly stator plate on this motor when it is running. if you can (with the engine NOT running of course) wiggle that stator plate up and down then it is loose. There is a fix for this that requires a punch and hammer, and has to be done a little bit at a time. Search evinrude stator wobble and that should return the process, it basically requires you to tap the brass mounting plate (under the stator) with a punch in 4 spots - a little bit at at time - until you get that wobble out - too much and the stator plate won't turn so do this easy and a little at a time.

You can also use lubriplate instead of 90 wt in your lower unit, it sticks to the gears, even if a little water gets in. I think it is called lubriplate 105 or 110, but search for lubriplate on the forum, it will return an answer. I do a lot of older (antique) motors and use lubriplate, not gear oil for these as almost all of the seep a little past the seals.

Hope this helps.

Dave

 

[adt2]

Re: Motor Still Won't Fire After New Ignition Components and Carb Rebuild

Thanks - that sounds exactly like what my armature plate is doing. I'll search for the stator wobble post and see if I can get that corrected.

 

[webrx]

Re: Motor Still Won't Fire After New Ignition Components and Carb Rebuild

Found this on a quick search, I think there is one with picture too, but didn't see it, maybe it is in the original post by J. Reeves.

(Magneto Armature Plate)
(J. Reeves)

If the armature plate has a a loose fitting, wobbling motion (the plate that the points, coils etc are attached to), it is usually caused by a slightly worn support ring. This allows the point setting to change erratically as the armature plate turns.

The cure is to remove the armature plate so that the support which is attached to the powerhead with 4 screws is visible. Then, with a screwdriver and hammer, or some tool of your choosing, and looking straight down at the support ring, make an indentation at what would be called the 12, 3, 6, and 9 O'clock positions. Install the armature plate and check for a smooth turning wobble free movement.

You may need to do that procedure a few times to obtain the proper fit (not too tight, not too loose), but it's worth the effort.

Use a small amount of anti corrosive grease between the aluminum ring and the brass support plate and also on the brass bushing of the armature plate when all is well.

 

[Urbina]

Re: Motor Still Won't Fire After New Ignition Components and Carb Rebuild

look into your power plugs not the spark plug wires but the wires that go to your power pack and make sure they are clean as can be.
( big fat rubber connection that joins both sides )
i had that same issue with my boat and then i found tons of rust in them.
after cleaning them the motor started on the first key turn.

 

[adt2]

Re: Motor Still Won't Fire After New Ignition Components and Carb Rebuild

Okay, got the lower unit refilled with fresh oil after a trip to the supply house for new washer/gaskets and an oil pump thingy. That made the job much easier.

I'll attempt the "bang it with a punch" repair tomorrow evening. I'll look into the power plug thing, but off the top of my head I don't think I know what you're talking about. What other wires are there? I can't think of any big wires besides the plug wires.

 

[Daviet]

Re: Motor Still Won't Fire After New Ignition Components and Carb Rebuild

I thimk Urbina is talking about another type of engine.