Multiple Electrical Issues

[FloatsLikeARock]

New guy here, and I Just bought a 2000 Procraft 170C with Mercury 125 ELPTO 2 stroke.

The boat has lived outside on its trailer a lot (fresh water only in the Southeast). It has several intermittent electrical issues. First were NAV lights. Bulbs were shot, so I installed LED replacements. Would not work or would intermittently only show dimly. I traced this to a thick layer of tarnish on the brass connectors in the sockets for the light poles. Fortunately, I was able to remove the connectors and clean them with a wire brush. Cleared up the problem.

Now though, out on the water, the fuel level gauge and the tachometer will intermittently stop working. More alarming is that the the engine will intermittently lose power and die. I'm almost certain that these issues are a result of similar tarnish/corrosion on the crimp-on spade connectors on the back of the dash, and maybe elsewhere. I'm sure I'm not the only one who has experienced these kinds of issues.

I was thinking of removing the dash (no easy task) and hitting every connector with some Caig Deoxit. Maybe using pliers to squeeze and tighten the connectors' grips on the spades. Maybe even solder some of the suspect or critical crimp connections.

Is there any better or easier procedure that has a chance of restoring reliability to these electrical connections.

 

[dwco5051]

Is there any better or easier procedure that has a chance of restoring reliability to these electrical connections.

Not that I know of. If someone knows an easier method to chase wiring gremlins in older boats I wish I would have learned it earlier in my life.

 

[dingbat]

There is no easy fix but you can save a lot of time and effort if you put a little thought into trouble shooting the problem.

Its very rare for intermittent problems to manifest from multiple points in a circuit. Tearing the dash apart to clean every terminal is a waste of time and effort.

Tach is driven by the stator/alternator output.
Power for motor comes directly from battery via the ignition switch.

Bad ignition switch would cause motor to drop out.
Electrical issues with motor would do both

 

[Silvertip]

Electrical issues across multiple systems is reason to start at the battery. Disconnect, clean (as in shiny bright) and then tighten securely, each and every connection at the battery. Follow the juice from their.

 

[FloatsLikeARock]

I'm looking at the path from the battery to the engine. Aside from the fuse at the battery in the aft compartment, the majority of suspect connectors are behind the instrument panel. Yes, the Tach and the fuel gauge are also involved in this circuit. If I'm going to have to remove the panel, (which involves removing the windshield and steering system,) wouldn't it make sense to eliminate all possible sources of the intermittent failure?

What makes this even more interesting is that now that I have the boat out of the water and in the back yard, the gremlins have all disappeared.

 

[tblshur]

Clean all fuses and holders

 

[Silvertip]

You should know there are two basic electrical systems on your boat. Note that I didn't say "circuits" -- One electrical system serves only the engine the other powers the "boat circuits". The engine system is the large positive and negative cables that run from the battery to the engine. The boat system is the smaller 10 gauge positive and ground that runs from the battery to the console where it branches out to the various other circuits. The only engine related items at the console are the tach, trim gauge and the ignition switch. Fuel gauge operates from the fuel sender in the tank. Trim gets its signal from the sender on the engine. Speedo is not even electrical but rather pitot (water/air pressure) from a sender at the stern or built into the lower unit of the outboard. Voltmeter it simply monitoring battery voltage. Every gauge and every other device requires 12 volts and ground to operate. Work on one circuit at a time otherwise you will drive yourself nuts trying to chase this.

 

[dingbat]

wouldn't it make sense to eliminate all possible sources of the intermittent failure?

It would make more sense to spend the time doing logical, targeted trouble shooting starting.

Ask yourself…..what do all your issues have in common? Start your trouble shooting there

 

[FloatsLikeARock]

Here is what I had to do to get to the affected wiring.



Here is what is causing the problem. This is the boat harness. The connectors on the engine harness are just as bad. Several of the spade connectors on the instrument panel are looking pretty cruddy too. The purple wire on the engine harness carries the ignition, fuel gauge power, and tach power. That would explain the intermittents there, but that's only one of twelve. I need to fix all of these connections.




Sooo, back to my original question: Is there some product that will remove this crud and restore reliable connections, or do I have to replace all of these connectors?

 

[ScottinAZ]

imho deoxit may help, but does not restore the connectors to "perfect" condition. best thing to do is bite the bullet and replace the connector with one that is more suited to the marine environment. Once again, it appears a mfg cheaped out, and used a connector that is not weatherproof, and as such you get the joy of replacing it with one that is. Digikey is your friend when searching for a connector that is more marine friendly than the one you currently have

 

[76SeaRay]

You could try a small long skinny wire brush (harbor freight has some) to carefully clean the insides of the connector. Once clean, use dielectric compound to help keep them clean in the future.

 

[dingbat]

I need to fix all of these connections.

Sooo, back to my original question: Is there some product that will remove this crud and restore reliable connections, or do I have to replace all of these connectors?

Molex connectors on a boat....;(
Guarantee you have the dreaded "black wire" disease in the wire as well.

Better off to strip back some wire to get rid of the disease and attach new pins.

Better yet, buy a suitable connector and fix the problem once and for all.

https://www.amazon.com/Deutsch-8-pin-Pigtail-14AWG-Copper/dp/B07FTG8GNF/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=8+pin+connector&qid=1656015385&sr=8-4

 

[FloatsLikeARock]

I cut these connectors off about a half inch from the housings. No "black wire disease" present there. The wire looks good and takes solder well.

I bought new pins and crimped the new pins onto the wires and soldered them on for good measure. I filled all the connectors with dielectric grease before assembling them. The gremlins seem to have all disappeared.

Deutsch connectors would probably have been the better way to go, but the old connectors and pins have lasted over twenty years, so I figure these new pins on the existing wire should probably outlast me.

Thanks for the suggestions.