My 5.0 to 5.7 swap log

[sub2010ss]

Removal day. Couldn't find a tow truck who was willing to pull my engine for me but got lucky with an awesome shop. They charged me $20 to grab it and put it in the back of my truck. Only problem I ran into was where I disconnected the exhaust. Works much better loosening below the 90 degree bends. Now she's out and on my engine stand coming apart and getting cleaned up.




Lots of water in the oil.


Another look at the crack.

 

[sub2010ss]

Im trying to make a list and place orders of everything I'll need as I move into re-installing the 350 back in. Heres what I got so far.
-Engine
-Muffs
-Remote oil drain
-Lower unit oil fill kit
-Winterizing kit
-Intake and carb
-Alignement bar
-Gimbal bearing tool
-Bellows installation tool
-Grease seal tool
-Hinge pin tool
-Manual
-Outdive mounting gasket kit
-Water pump impeller kit

I'm sure there are some things I'm missing or not thinking of. Any input on other things to think of while I have it all ripped apart? Things I should inspect?

 

[alldodge]

Im trying to make a list and place orders of everything I'll need as I move into re-installing the 350 back in. Heres what I got so far.
-Engine
-Muffs
-Remote oil drain
-Lower unit oil fill kit
-Winterizing kit
-Intake and carb
-Alignement bar
-Gimbal bearing tool
-Bellows installation tool
-Grease seal tool
-Hinge pin tool
-Manual
-Outdive mounting gasket kit
-Water pump impeller kit

I'm sure there are some things I'm missing or not thinking of. Any input on other things to think of while I have it all ripped apart? Things I should inspect?

Do you plan to install a hose in the oil pan drain plug?

I wouldn't bother with replacing the grease seal, but if you don want to replace it its not hard to install without the tool. Also the new gimbal bearings are coming as sealed bearings and cannot be greased

Check for play on the upper and lower steering pins.

Maybe
Serpentine Belt
Fuel pump

 

[sub2010ss]

Yes a hose with a small finger valve. Good stuff. I haven't actually checked the gimbal yet but thought I might replace it anyways. Belt is goodand it's got an electric fuel pump so it's easy to change if it fails.

 

[FreeBeeTony]

If the block was cracked, I'd consider replacing the manifolds and risers too............

 

[sub2010ss]

I was planning on pressure testing the manifolds for leaks and reusing if possible.

 

[sub2010ss]

So, I leak checked the manifolds today and found some small cracks. I'll be looking at manifolds next. Anyone have any recommendations for manifolds and risers?

 

[alldodge]

So, I leak checked the manifolds today and found some small cracks. I'll be looking at manifolds next. Anyone have any recommendations for manifolds and risers?

If your going for cast iron I would say any of them will work. It's all about price. If you want to go aluminum this to is price but the range is limited

 

[bruceb58]

Anyone have any recommendations for manifolds and risers?

I am a big believer in OEM manifolds. No GLM for sure.

 

[Bondo]

I am a big believer in OEM manifolds. No GLM for sure.

Ayuh,.... After almost loosin' my motor, 'n figurin' out I needed to re-machine the gasket surfaces on My GLM manifolds, they're, so far, still holdin' up, Ok,...

Would I buy 'em again,..?? probably not, but maybe,.....

 

[sub2010ss]

I ended up going with perfprotech.com on the manifolds and risers. I was leaning towards the GLM's until I read all the negative reviews on here about them. After all of this work I really don't want to risk having cracks in the manifolds. Price was pretty comparable too. Today I finished all of the disassembly of the old block. Im going to start getting everything cleaned up and prepped for the new block, which by the way shipped today and should be here by this weekend.


Might be hard to see but this explains all of the water in the oil. Both sides of the lifter valley were cracked.

 

[alldodge]

Other then the crack the motor is clean inside, shows it has been taken care of

 

[sub2010ss]

It is and it's sad how clean it is but so useless. I'm thinking it has very low hours with as clean as the boat and engine are.

The one thing that surprised me was how much sand was inside of this thing!! I'd say at least an inch up the water passage was completely filled. Wouldn't regular flushes keep the sand flushed out as well?

 

[bruceb58]

Make sure the oil pan ends up having no nicks in the paint. Any nick is where it will rust out and leak down the road.

 

[alldodge]

It is and it's sad how clean it is but so useless. I'm thinking it has very low hours with as clean as the boat and engine are.

The one thing that surprised me was how much sand was inside of this thing!! I'd say at least an inch up the water passage was completely filled. Wouldn't regular flushes keep the sand flushed out as well?

No not really, when you start flushing an engine most of the water is going out through the exhaust. The thermostat only opens for a short bit and then closes again. If the boat was used where sand was being injected periodically this would be the norm. The sand would also be damaging the impeller.

When winterizing these same sand trails can hold raw water and even with antifreeze you can have a damaged block. This is the main reason to pull plugs and use a wire up inside the plug to see if the stuff (if any) can be dislodged and passed out.

 

[sub2010ss]

Good info!! Thanks. I do plan to give everything a good coat of paint when she's fully assembled. Maybe not as much as from factory. That stuff has runike crazy.

 

[NHGuy]

Did you buy a flat tappet or roller lifter engine? If flat tappet you will need to do a break in run on first start up. You can do this on the ground out of the boat which I'd suggest. That way if you have any problems you won't have already installed the engine.
You will need to set up the distributor and carburetor, and you will need a side tank with fuel to the pump.
You can make a square ground cradle with some 2 x 8's and 2 x 10's, The rear mounts are higher than the fronts so you use the wider board there. Keeps the motor level.
Fill it with break in oil, and run it for 30 minutes at 1800 to 2500 rpm. No idling, just run it at those rpms so there is plenty of oil to your new cam. This is the one time to rev a cold motor.
Then change the filter and oil, put in something with zinc or zddp. I used Joe Gibbs Driven break in oil on my cam and then I used Quaker State Defy (it is manfactured with zinc in the blend) last summer. Only problem with the Defy is it's the grade you'd use in a car or truck, 10w30. Mercruiser says to use something 40 weight during summer. If you want to follow the program and still care for the flat tappet cam you could do 40 weight and get a some zinc additive.

I'm really excited for you, your boat will rip with a 5.7!

Keep us updated.

 

[sub2010ss]

It's a roller cam marine specific rebuild engine. I still plan to do a 30 min break in period at home followed bynan10 hour break in period on the water. I haven't heard of a break in like that though. My plan was to just run at high idle for 30 min. Change the oil. And run on the lake less than 2500 but vary rpm for 10 hours and change the oil again. I figure that'll be two days out learning the boat since she's my first. I'm pretty damn excited myself, except this hold I'm in waiting for the long block and parts to show up. I'll definitely keep things posted and up to date.

 

[sub2010ss]

Called to check in order status today. Exhaust manifolds are on the way. Intake is back ordered 2-3 weeks!! Totally unacceptable. So coming up with a new plan on the intake and carb.

 

[Blind Date]

"I haven't heard of a break in like that though."

The break-in procedure described by NHGuy is for the cam specifically. Has nothing to do with the rest of the engine . It is done to prevent flattening a lobe .You have a roller motor so no need to do any of that.

Good decision going w/5.7 over another 5.0!