My first, ( Larsons Tri-Hull)

Woodonglass

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Re: My first, ( Larsons Tri-Hull)

To cut your deck out set your circ saw to 3/4" and cut out a square in the middle. Check the thickness of the deck If it's 3/4" continue on and cut all around the perimeter of the hull. If it's 1/2" then adjust the depth of the cut. Cut several more slices in the hull and then use pry bars to get it all out. I wouldn't worry about trying to save it just get it out!!!! As already stated make SURE to measure everything at several points and take a lot of pics. Mark the sides of the hull right where the deck attaches so you'll have a reference point after the decks been removed. Wiring usually runs under the port side gunwale. Wiring a boat is really some basic stuff. Not much to it. When the time comes I can supply you with some diagrams. Your boat should run about a 70 to 85 hp motor. I really Like Johnson and Evinrudes. Keep up with the Clean Out and Demo. Don't worry about the cap removal yet. that'll come later. We do need to start thinking about getting the hull supported so it's either get the trailer built properly or make a cradle to sit her on.
 

RobertPowell

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Re: My first, ( Larsons Tri-Hull)

What can I use to support the boat on the trailer without removing it? I need the parking space besides it... I am having my daughter move back in....
 

RobertPowell

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Re: My first, ( Larsons Tri-Hull)

Oh btw I have all the gears and parts. Well I think I have most of them. I'd like to keep the motor or rebuild it and trade it off... why such a powerful boat motor (85-90) or what u were saying? Seems overkill on it? I am learning but don't know to much...
 

Bill3434

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Re: My first, ( Larsons Tri-Hull)

You boat is rated for 110hp. What are you planning on doing with the boat. Just fishing on a really small lake, if so anything above a trolling motor will do the job. If you want to put the whole family in the boat along with some friends and water ski, then your are going to need some horsepower.

From my observations tri-hulls vary so much in efficiency there is no telling what you will need. Has an example has a teenager my family had an 18ft tri-hull with a johnson 50hp it would go about 35-37mph and could get me up on skis. My current boat is a 16ft tri-hull with a 70hp johnson and water logged it would only do 30mph and would bog down to about 23mph with four people. I don't know what it will do yet with the restore but it won't be breaking any speed records.
There is a whole lot of reading you could do on this but since you haven't a clue about how your boat behaves in the water, if you can reasonable restrore what you have then do it. Someone like that engine on her. Just don't be surprised. I'm assuming a man your age wants some speed though. Just my opinion. But you need to get your boat sea worthy first or it won't be going anywhere even with a jet engine hanging off the back of it.

Glad your are learning though. You will have a whole new skill set when you are done. It's worth it. I spent going on 19 months on mine but I primarily worked on it only on weekends. I work full time and was going to school full time, death in a family, mother nature bringing her wrath at the wrong time. Just do it right.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: My first, ( Larsons Tri-Hull)

You'll need to do a lot or research on the electric shift motors. They are obsolete and parts are difficult if not impossible to find. You might not be able to rebuild the motor. What HP is that motor?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: My first, ( Larsons Tri-Hull)

On your trailer in the area circled, you'll need to fabricate some sort of bunk supports similar to the drawing shown. Either out of wood or have a welder weld it up cuz you'll eventually need a trailer to fit the boat appropriately.

bunks.jpg

YourTrailer.jpg
 

RobertPowell

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Re: My first, ( Larsons Tri-Hull)

The motor is a 40 HP Johnson seahorse electromatic. Bout to do research on why they are obsolete
 

RobertPowell

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Re: My first, ( Larsons Tri-Hull)

Okay I decided not to go ahead with even trying to rebuild the lower unit. I am not happy with what I read about them. Hopefully I can find a different motor (40-60hp for time being once I get done with my flooring and all that...
 

Woodonglass

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Re: My first, ( Larsons Tri-Hull)

I though you'd feel that way after some research. They work really well WHEN they work! When the Servos go out they're pretty much Junk!!! I have one and so far...it's working. When it stops, I won't even attempt to fix it. I'll be shopping for a later model.
 

Bill3434

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Re: My first, ( Larsons Tri-Hull)

You might try taking your motor apart and clean the parts and put them up for sale on ebay. Someone my need the good parts you have. That might offset some of your cost for a new motor.
 

RobertPowell

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Re: My first, ( Larsons Tri-Hull)

6/22/13-today! Managed to scrub alot of the boat so the moss and everything else is off. Going to wait and see if it is going to rain or not before I start cutting... (i need to go buy a crowbar to btw) Been raining alot so havent been able to do anything. Court tomorrow which wont be able to do anything so I am hoping to get stuff done today. ( if it rains i am taking the seats inside and measuring them and and drawin pics and doing the whole 9 yards of stuff so when i do get round to it i can redo the seats myself.


There is some surface cracks, they dont go all the way through, might just be the paint... How do i fix them properly?
And where there are the numbers on the top section there is a crack that goes all the way through... best advicce on fixing that too?
( i will be researching this on the forum but would like multiple opinions if i could)

And selling the motor parts on ebay is a good idea didnt think about that!
 

RobertPowell

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Re: My first, ( Larsons Tri-Hull)

the camera is doa, dont know why it died so no pics for a while...
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: My first, ( Larsons Tri-Hull)

6/22/13-today! Managed to scrub alot of the boat so the moss and everything else is off. Going to wait and see if it is going to rain or not before I start cutting... (i need to go buy a crowbar to btw) Been raining alot so havent been able to do anything. Court tomorrow which wont be able to do anything so I am hoping to get stuff done today. ( if it rains i am taking the seats inside and measuring them and and drawin pics and doing the whole 9 yards of stuff so when i do get round to it i can redo the seats myself.


There is some surface cracks, they dont go all the way through, might just be the paint... How do i fix them properly?
And where there are the numbers on the top section there is a crack that goes all the way through... best advicce on fixing that too?
( i will be researching this on the forum but would like multiple opinions if i could)

And selling the motor parts on ebay is a good idea didnt think about that!

Cracks on what?
 

RobertPowell

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Re: My first, ( Larsons Tri-Hull)

Cracks on the surface of the top piece not the bottom hull but the top piece that comes off (dont know term of that)

Update- Started tearing floor up today----> Pain in the arse... Going to get the rest tomorrow. Pulling the grinder out tomorrow hopefully...


Tips on pulling the floor up?
I have learned a cat claw and a 4lb hammer works awesome for 3/4 of the job
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Messages
398
Re: My first, ( Larsons Tri-Hull)

Cracks on the surface of the top piece not the bottom hull but the top piece that comes off (dont know term of that)

Update- Started tearing floor up today----> Pain in the arse... Going to get the rest tomorrow. Pulling the grinder out tomorrow hopefully...


Tips on pulling the floor up?
I have learned a cat claw and a 4lb hammer works awesome for 3/4 of the job

The part you are talking about is called "the cap". Hard to tell how bad it is without pictures, but cracks in the hull would rate higher.

I ripped up as much as the deck I could with circular saw and my hand for starters. Just pay attention to where you cut, don't want to cut in the hull which is repairable but you got enough to do. Once you can't cut anymore then it's time for the angle grinder. That's when the real fun (dust) begins.

I left my stringers and bulkheads in place until they were ready to be replaced. I did this to help keep my hull straight since I was climbing in and out of the boat all the time. Leaving it in place also serves as good templates for the new structure after you get the transom in.
 

RobertPowell

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Re: My first, ( Larsons Tri-Hull)

Having trouble getting the floor all the way up I need help. what attachment do I need to cut into it??
 

Bill3434

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Messages
398
Re: My first, ( Larsons Tri-Hull)

Having trouble getting the floor all the way up I need help. what attachment do I need to cut into it??

I used the coarses flap disk I could fine and started grinding away. WOG uses a flat disk wish I would have known about that before I started, they are a lot cheaper. Wish you had your camera so we know what you are having problems with.
 

RobertPowell

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Jun 18, 2013
Messages
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Re: My first, ( Larsons Tri-Hull)

I am having problems with the floor right under the steering wheel and the rotten floor right by the right side of the boat by the bulkheads/wall of the hull. I am having so bad of luck trying to do this.

Cut my hand/wrist area when I was tearing it out.

I need to buy:
GLOVES
Better respriator

this whole tearing the floor up sucks. did anyone ever use a dual saw? they seem good idk if It would work or what...
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Messages
398
Re: My first, ( Larsons Tri-Hull)

Hard to get advice on here with no internet. I spent money on a small circular saw for the areas you described, within 10 minutes of use I managed to cut two holes in my hull. I never cut a hole with a regular circular saw though. For the tight areas I used a cutting wheel on the angle grinder or used a flap disk and just ground down to the hull.
 
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