My New Boat!

[Nathan R]

Re: My New Boat!

I think you're right. It's only about 4 inches worth of stuff that I am removingfr the rear.

 

[greenbush future]

Re: My New Boat!

Stunning boat you have there!! I had the same year Tyee, just not a Grand Spot, and man was it a nice boat. Mine had a Merc 115 on it, and it was just OK on power. I would think 150 or bigger would move along really nice. The best part of the Lund brand is they really do hold value well, so you should do well if/when you ever decide to sell. The double axle is also a really nice upgrade mine didn't have. New transom and power and that boat will last you forever. Keep her covered and the paint will stay as nice as it appears now too. Nice project!

 

[Nathan R]

Re: My New Boat!

OK guys (and gals?) We have had rain here for the last few days and I have really been moving along. I got all the old wood removed and am now prepping for installation of the new transom. Against the advice of most all of the people here I have decided to pour the transom back in. I know that it will end up being a little more expensive, but in the long run the time and effort it is saving me will be worth it. At this point I haven't removed either the inside or outside skin. I was able to gouge out a bunch of pulverized wood and (after removing all the various bolts and screws) then I ran some long lag bolts down into the remaining pieces of transom and simply lifted them out with a chain and a fork lift. I like the idea of being able to put all those bolts back in there original holes and just pour the new transom in place. I will post some pics of my progress when I get more accomplished.

 

[Nathan R]

Re: My New Boat!

I purchased an optimax 150 to power this boat and it is going to come with a 25p stainless steel laser x prop. Will this be the right prop for this boat?

 

[Watermann]

Re: My New Boat!

Good progress, not easy yanking out a mangled transom from the sandwich. Be interesting to see someone pour in a transom. You'll just have to run that prop and see what the RPMS are to know for sure.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: My New Boat!

You want to pour the transom in a tin boat?

Be interesting, and I think a 1st @iboats dry dock. Tagging along.

 

[Teamster]

Re: My New Boat!

I purchased an optimax 150 to power this boat and it is going to come with a 25p stainless steel laser x prop. Will this be the right prop for this boat?

I think a 25p is a big wheel on that boat with a 150,.......

Try it and see where the rpm's end up,....

My guess is a 21 will get you closer,....

 

[Nathan R]

Re: My New Boat!

According to the weight of the boat and mercury's prop calculator, the prop should be something more like a 16x16p three blade or a 15x 18p 4 blade prop. I think those were both aluminum prop suggestions. I am sure that that the 25p prop will be a bit aggressive, but I dont know the diameter yet.

 

[Nathan R]

Re: My New Boat!

I know you have all been eagerly awaiting an update on my progress (with pictures). Here it is!

This pic shows that there is foam poured in right up to the bottom of the transom. This means that the only place that I have to worry about building a dam to keep the nida from running out the bottom is right in the middle basically where the motor plate is. I had to cut the inner skin out from that area because of how mangle it was from the accident. It is amazing to me that the inner skin could be so destroyed, but the outer skin remained in such good condition.


This picture shows the top view of the transom looking down on the new inner skin with bolts and plastic spacers to help straighten out som of the warpage in the aluminum. My plan is to leave the spacers in place when I pour the nida so that the bolts can be be easily removed for engine placement.


Here is a picture of my new stainless engine plate.


Another picture of the new inner skin. Don't worry I will be bracing across the entire section with a few beefy aluminum angles.


And finally, can one of you guys point me in the right direction to find on of these? The other one suffered an untimely demise during the deconstruction. It measures about 1 7/8 inches from center to center with a 3 inch thread and an overall length of about 5 inches (stainless steel of course).


As you can see I had to make some new inspection areas in the floor of the splashwell in order to reach the nuts on the inside of the transom. The entire length of the splashwell will treated to a new 1/8 inch aluminum diamond plate to make things all pretty again when I am done hacking away.:lol:

EDIT: I almost for got to address the comments on the pourable transom. While I am certainly in the minority, I am not the first person to pour a transom in a tin boat. I found at least one other iboater that had done it on a little smaller boat and he had great results. (although he used seacast and I am using nida bond so maybe I am the first...) As for the cost, It will come out to be about $150 more for materials versus using marine ply, but the savings in time and effort are more than worth it to me. Thanks for the interest and the help- Nate

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: My New Boat!

Tow eye, should be available here @iboats

 

[Teamster]

Re: My New Boat!

I thought steel and aluminum didn't get along and would cause corrosion over time,.............

I think I'd lose the stainless steel plate and get one made of aluminum,......

Everything else looks good,.....

 

[jigngrub]

Re: My New Boat!

I thought steel and aluminum didn't get along and would cause corrosion over time,.............

As long as there's a good paint barrier between the two they'll be fine.

 

[Pmccraney]

Re: My New Boat!

http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=230585&d=1399000919

Really nice boat!!! Also curious about the transom pour. I also got a chuckle out of all the holes in the transducer mounting block... Looks like someone didn't read the directions or had some really bad luck in getting the transducer to read right due to strakes, prop wash, etc... there might be 100 holes in that thing (at least they used the mounting block).

Have you settled on a repair plan for the trauma on the bottom of the transom?

Take care and thanks for sharing your project.

 

[Nathan R]

Re: My New Boat!

There is only the one hole that actually needs repairing. For now I just closed the cut by tapping it shut and sealing it with jb weld. It's only about an inch in overall length so we'll see how it holds up.

I also noticed that the transducer block had a ton of holes in it. The previous owner must have really liked to try different things on the transom cause he had holes drilled all over it too!

 

[Nathan R]

Re: My New Boat!

Can one of you fine iboaters tell me what this is? It has no identifying marking on it except for the name.



I also have some good news about the boat. All of the console electrical (ie: switches, bilge, livewell, lights etc...) is fully operational!

As far as electronics, there is a lowrance globalmap 3500c on the console, but I think it will be going the way of the ebay. I Just ordered a Raymarine Dragonfly 5.7. Maybe I am weird, but I am kind of ecited to try it out. I have not had occasion to use imaging sonar yet. On the bow there is a severely underpowered 42lb minkota autopilot, but it works so I think it will stay where it's at for now. I will be using the kicker for any real trolling anyway, so the minkota can be used for the glass calm days when I just need a gentle push in the right direction. I also ordered a Lowrance elite 4x DSI for the bow. I think it will be nice to have a clear picture of the structure you are trying to fish around with the trolling motor.

On the downside, there was a promariner 3 bank tournament pro onboard charger, but is fried. I pulled it apart and it was full of moisture which corroded everything inside the case. I tried cleaning all the corrosion away with WD40, a toothbrush, Electric contact cleaner, and an air compresor, but all I gt was a nasty arc when I plugged it in. Right now it puts a full quick charge of 14.5 volts to every lead without any batteries hooked up and none of the led indicators work.

 

[Teamster]

Re: My New Boat!

That looks like part of the electronics that goes with the power trim/tilt on the kicker or big motor,..

 

[Nathan R]

Re: My New Boat!

Also, thanks for pointing out that stainless steel and aluminum don't get along well together. For some reason I had it in my head that stainless was ok. I know carbon steel and aluminum don't mix well so I should have known better. There is not a good paint barrier between them right now, but there will be. I also used all new stainless hardware to put everything back together. I am pretty confident that the original hardware is stainless as well. Now I am thinking that maybe I should throw a good thick coat of paint on the outside skin of the transom while its still wide open to help keep things from corroding. Would it look out of place to have a solid color on the transom with the two tone on thehull?

 

[Watermann]

Re: My New Boat!

Would it look out of place to have a solid color on the transom with the two tone on thehull?

Not at all, in fact most boats are that way. Besides there's always something on the transom to break up the solid color ie: Evinride or Mercuiser.

 

[Nathan R]

No Title

Here I have a picture of the splashwell back together complete with reinforcements both above and below decks.

The second picture is of a mystery line that comes out with all the engine controls? Oil line to an external oil tank?


Edit: I think there must be a bug in the picture posting feature. I will post pics later.

 

[Nathan R]

Splashwell with inspection panel installed

Mystery Line

Oh and the nida will be here tomorrow. I will be planting soybeans, but I will have the transom poured by the end of the weekend.