Need 2008 VP 5.7 HELP!!!! PLEASE

[Regal1973]

Thanks Muc for your advice! At this point, I dont mind replacing these parts...piece of mind for me having new electronics on it.

Ive searched all night & have located genuine VP parts you advised on (TPS, IAC, MAP, TEMP SENSOR) at......."""""reasonable prices"""""" LOL
Placing orders today & hope to have them by the weekend but with this epidemic going on, who knows how long it will take to get them.

The throttle body throttle arm I bent was ever so slight, that I'm pretty sure I put it back in its original position. I think I'll hold off on a replacement throttle body for now.

Because I dont currently have a scanner, is there a diy way to clear any stored codes in the ecm? I'm sure I have a couple codes since I disconnected sensors (IAC, TPS & TEMP SENSOR) while it was running and got back an audible alarm tone from the dash when unplugged.

thanks in advance

 

[muc]

There is no way to clear the codes without a scan tool. The codes will stay in the memory for along time but won’t have any effect on how the engine runs once the code is inactive (whatever was unplugged is reconnected) and the key is turned off.

 

[Lou C]

What I said back in the beginning...GM cast iron 4 bbl intake, low pressure electric pump, oil pressure safety switch, Edelbrock or Holley marine 4bbl carb. Volvo used Holley before the switch to FI so the hookup might be a bit easier although some like the Edelbrock better. Prob about a grand in parts total a day or 2 to install yourself. Just make sure to use good intake gaskets because the Vortecs can be prone to leaks.

 

[Regal1973]

Thanks Muc, i just wanted to make sure that "stored codes" wouldn't have any affect on what the computer might be doing once its all up & running again.
The parts should all be here by the weekend if eta's stay the same.
Once they're installed, I'll let everyone know the outcome.
Thanks again to all who have taken their time to read thru and assist me with this.

 

[muc]

Thanks Muc, i just wanted to make sure that "stored codes" wouldn't have any affect on what the computer might be doing once its all up & running again.
The parts should all be here by the weekend if eta's stay the same.
Once they're installed, I'll let everyone know the outcome.
Thanks again to all who have taken their time to read thru and assist me with this.

Your welcome.
Some ECMs have codes that will “latch” and need to be cleared with a scan tool. But your ECM doesn’t.

 

[Regal1973]

Ok, sorry its taken a bit to update (for those who really care LOL).
I replaced the IAC, the temp sensor, spark plugs, and map sensor. Start up brought clean exhaust / clean water out the drive, and a pretty steady idle. I tweaked the throttle body arm a little bit (remember that I originally bent it to adjust the throttle) and it now idles pretty dang nice. Every so often it might change ever so slightly for a split second (100 rpms or so) but immediately levels itself back out. Does this sound like a normal trait when i/o boats are out of the water on the hose? I didn't notice this when it was sitting in the water.

Satisfied with it at this point, we took it out last weekend. She ran Excellent! In fact, when I got her back home while flushing the motor, & when advancing the throttle (while on the trailer) her revs felt smoother than ever.

I need to verify the RPMs though. She has always shifted with a bit of a "clunk" and if memory serves me right, the VP tech told me my tach was about +125-150 rpms off ......and according to the tachometer, its idling around 750-800 but doesn't sound elevated. I replaced all the gauges with factory units at the time the motor was replaced.

 

[alldodge]

While the slight hiccup shouldn't happen with any regularity, I would worry about it now, give it some time and might just need some time.

 

[Regal1973]

Yes its not on a steady or regular basis, but because I'm so tuned into the motor right now, I can notice it every once in a while, only when its out of water where you can easily hear the exhaust. In the water I don't notice.

 

[alldodge]

Go boating and have fun

 

[muc]

Hope it keeps working for you.

Thanks for the update (I do care)

 

[Regal1973]

Hey guys, well two outings on boat and motor seems good.
My next projects are to tackle the following:
•Hard Shifting of VOLVO PENTA DPS-A OUTDRIVE
•STEERING RAM SEAL LEAK
•SQUEAKING POWER STEERING PUMP.

Now the hard shifting has slowly creeped up over last year or so. It doesnt really take too much effort to shift the shifter into & out of gear, but when it engages fwd or rev, it's a big thump, to the point that if someone was standing up & wasn't prepared, it might throw them off balance a bit.
I've researched this online but most are all over the place on diagnosing shifting issues. Can you point me in the right direction and sequence of tests I should do to resolve the issue.

As for the power steering pump and the leaky steering ram, I just intend to replace them both. The ram is dripping power steering fluid which intern lowers the fluid in the pump and then the squeak comes on. The pump is now squeaky no matter the level of fluid so guessing its sustained some damage as well.
Thanks in advance for your help here!

 

[muc]

Harsh shifting is usually caused by.
1. RPM too high, confirm engine speed with scan tool or optical tach. Dash tach isn’t accurate enough.
2. Wrong lube in drive. Use Volvo lube.
3. Cone clutch or gear cups damaged and/or not shimmed correctly. Disassemble, clean and inspect upper drive.

Replace or rebuild pump and actuator. Because you now have metal shavings in the system from running the pump low on fluid you should also clean or replace the power steering cooler and lines.

 

[Regal1973]

Ok so I will use an optical tachometer to double check the rpms first. RPMs should be approx. 650?
Minimum / Maximum idle rpm's?
I've never addressed the outdrive gear lube as the boat itself only has about 200+- hours total. My guess is that its the orig lube since new.....
I've never jumped into the inner workings of the drives. Before I get to that point, let me check the rpms & lube condition.
Thanks!

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,....... 650/ 750 rpms is normal,......

'n the gear lube already has twice the hours on it, it should have,....

 

[muc]

The spec for your engine is 600 RPMs. They don’t publish a +/- because the ECM controls it.