Need advise on bringing a 92 beretta succsess 200 back to life.

*Rsf*RedNeck

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Ok just an update. Not sure if it matters but the 4.3 is omc cobra. Not a mercrusier. Started runnen seafoam through the carb today and noticed a linkage on my carb was hitting the carb. Pried it away some and that helped it alot. I checked the cap and rotor and all is well. I still couldn't to get it to idle at 1k with out sputtering out and I noticed an open port to the left of the carb. It pulls vacume. If I have a buddy finger it off and on we can get it to run smooth. Can some one please tell me what this is?20210306_131037.jpg
 

*Rsf*RedNeck

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thanks for the info on the throttle ill check it tommarow. it seems to me the choke is working as you described. im going to run some sea foam through it and see what happens
you were correct of course. now i know. thanks. for some reason i thought to hhold the trigger down.
 

Lou C

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that hole is part of the choke heater set up. The way it works is that air is drawn by vacuum into a tube that is in the exhaust cross over in the intake and that then heats the air, the hot air opens up the auto choke valve by unwinding the thermostatic spring in the choke housing. I haven't seen one of these on a boat but on cars when they used them (yeah I'm old enough to have been driving then) there was usually a tube coming off the air filter hooking up to this, so the air drawn in was filtered, but there may have also been an orifice to limit the amount of extra air being metered in. I have to look at a parts break down to see how it was originally set up. Had something similar on my 1970 Ford Torino 302 cu in with 2bbl Autolite carb.
On my '88 which is nearly identical to yours I have a Quadrajet which uses a well type manifold heated choke.
BTW you should check those manifolds before running it in the water, I have heard they can fail and let water in the engine, I had 3 sets of them on mine though and never had a failure, the last time I had to change the exhaust (salt water we have to change every 7 years or so) I changed it over to the conventional 2 piece design that they used on the later models.

OK took a look at the parts diagrams, that's a Rochester 2bbl you will have to look at a manual to figure out what's wrong with the linkage. It does not appear that any additional steel line runs from the flame arrestor to that open port. If closing it over makes the engine run better then your carb is probably in need of cleaning and is running too lean. Because when you cover that opening up in effect you are removing air from the mixture.

Also the engine is not a 1992, that would have had a Holley carb with an electric choke, the newest it could be is a 1989, that's the last year they came with Rochester carbs.
1989 OMC Stern Drive 4.3 [432APRMED] - Parts Lookup - Crowley Marine
432= 4.3 engine, 2 bbl carb A= 1st run of model P= power steering, R=right hand rotation the rest is a date code I think.

I spotted the OMC model # sticker on your valve cover above is 432APRMED
this is what you need to get the right parts.
 
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*Rsf*RedNeck

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Awesome info man thanks. That's weird about the motor. I know the hull is a 92, guess they replaced the motor with what they could find back in the day. So your saying I should take off the risers and make sure the flappers good? lol, I don't know why but I was trying to avoid that. Better safe than sorry I guess. As far as cleaning the carb i think i best take it off and give it to a professional. I have never had any luck re-tuning them. I'm no carb master so I don't know, but when it's running if I look in the carb, the fuel just kind of seems like it's splatting in there. Is it supposed to be a nice spray? Mabey my fuel pump is starting to **** out....
 
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*Rsf*RedNeck

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lou c have you had to do stringers in your boat? On mine the transoms good, the motor mounds are solid, but the deck is shot around the ski locker. All the surrounding floor is solid, but I assume once I get the motor right I'm going to be doing all the stringers.... although I hope to be able to just rebuild the center stringers. I can allready tell the foams wet. Man i cant wait to open that can of worms. Lucky for me that kind of wood and glass work is up my alley.
 

Lou C

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My transom & motor mount stringers are good but the stringers near the ski locker rotted out about 15 years ago. I had that fixed by a glass shop and installed a new deck myself back then (2006-2007).
You might need a carb shop to get it cleaned and set up right. I can rebuild Quadrajets and Holley it just takes time & practice. I would take off the manifolds and check to make sure the flappers are in place at the top of the Y pipe and the 4 outlets in the manifold are not clogged with rust. Here’s what the look like after 5.5 seasons in salt water vs new. No longer available so the only option is to convert to the later style as I did 4 years ago.
 

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*Rsf*RedNeck

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Hey Lou C. no auto parts store around here has a rebuild kit in stock so im looking on amazon and see new ones for 100 bucks. im trying to cheap as possible but the only ones i see when i type in my part number look a little different. the new ones hace a hose fitting on the front mine dose not have, and the top looks different. heres a link to the new one https://www.amazon.com/ALAVENTE-Car...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
 

Lou C

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Looks like a Rochester 2 bbl try Quadrajetparts.com order by the # on the carb
 

*Rsf*RedNeck

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Hey guys, quick update. The interwebs don't seem to know what the **** my problem is lol. I bought a kit from mikes carbs and rebuilt my carb. I was surprised how bad it was inside. I cleaned it all up and rebuilt it. The damn 4.3 omc purs like a kitten now. What I cant figure out is this. I got a new choke with my kit and I never took the housing off. When I went to adjust it like the youtube said, I noticed I had to turn my choke clockwise to get the flap on the carb to close. If i turn it counter clockwise, like they say, it just gets tight. Flap on carb don't move. I figured **** it, and I adjusted it clockwise until the flap closed and tightened the 3 screws. After installing the carb it wouldn't start. I loosened up the 3 screws which allowed the flap to open and she fired right up. Keep in mind the old choke spring is the same way. It closes the flap by going clockwise. Next I unhooked the throttle cable and adjusted the idle screw and got it as close as I could to 850 rpm. It starts every time and runs smooth. I don't know what's wrong with the choke. When I take the spring assembly out I notice that I cant get the lever to turn counter clockwise if I wanted to. Any ideas? I'm so close lol. Thanks.
 

Scott06

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Cant quite follow Whats going on with the choke, but i ran with out one for many years just fine by forcing mine open. Just needed a couple of throttle pumps and fast idle on colder mornings
 
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