Re: Need Help With Force Motor
I am going to call the marine service today that did the work on the used motor. What do you consider an acceptable compression for this motor?
120 LBS + would be acceptable
I am considering this because I broke down the cost to rebuild, about $690.00. This is with purchasing four +.030 piston kits at $100.00 each (bearings, rings, pistons). this is assuming paying 140 for the block (I dont know what the bid is today) and 50 gasket kits and 100 for misc parts/machine work. After hearing your advice, I dont think I will offer 1000, I am thinking 700-800 if the marine service confirms the condition to be good.
Yes, don't take the seller's word without checking yourself. I would ask the seller to allow me to check it myself with a compression gauge.
Back to the rebuild. What will I have to do to my block to prep it for hone work? Can I leave the flywheel on? Also I was unable to figure out how to get the piston pin out. There were not any clips or anything, does the shop need to do this? One last question can any machine shop do this work or does it have to be a marine machine shop?
Yes, you can probably get away with leaving the flywheel/crankshaft on. Make sure you stuff some rags into the bottom of the cylinders to prevent any grit from getting into the crankcase. The wrist pins are pressed on. There are two metal rings on the wrist pin inside the piston. You need a press to push them out. A special tool is needed to properly space the rings to re-install them so you don't crush the wrist pin needle bearings. If you use replacement pistons, the forged ones usually have full floating wrist pins which are held in place with wrist pin clips and can be installed by hand. No need for a press. I've gotten mixed results when asking a regular automotive machine to do work on an outboard. Some places won't attempt, some will attempt but no guarantee.
I am going to call the marine service today that did the work on the used motor. What do you consider an acceptable compression for this motor?
120 LBS + would be acceptable
I am considering this because I broke down the cost to rebuild, about $690.00. This is with purchasing four +.030 piston kits at $100.00 each (bearings, rings, pistons). this is assuming paying 140 for the block (I dont know what the bid is today) and 50 gasket kits and 100 for misc parts/machine work. After hearing your advice, I dont think I will offer 1000, I am thinking 700-800 if the marine service confirms the condition to be good.
Yes, don't take the seller's word without checking yourself. I would ask the seller to allow me to check it myself with a compression gauge.
Back to the rebuild. What will I have to do to my block to prep it for hone work? Can I leave the flywheel on? Also I was unable to figure out how to get the piston pin out. There were not any clips or anything, does the shop need to do this? One last question can any machine shop do this work or does it have to be a marine machine shop?
Yes, you can probably get away with leaving the flywheel/crankshaft on. Make sure you stuff some rags into the bottom of the cylinders to prevent any grit from getting into the crankcase. The wrist pins are pressed on. There are two metal rings on the wrist pin inside the piston. You need a press to push them out. A special tool is needed to properly space the rings to re-install them so you don't crush the wrist pin needle bearings. If you use replacement pistons, the forged ones usually have full floating wrist pins which are held in place with wrist pin clips and can be installed by hand. No need for a press. I've gotten mixed results when asking a regular automotive machine to do work on an outboard. Some places won't attempt, some will attempt but no guarantee.
