NEW BOATER!! Repairing stringers

[Woodonglass]

Those are some NICE looking Stringer installs. If this is your first time doing glass work, I'd say you're a "Natural"!!!

 

[Bigreddon]

Thanks WOG. Couldn't have done it without all the advice from everyone. Can't wait to get that floor in!!! I still have a couple of large sections of the old sole. I removed the old glass (about 1/4 thick) from the old wood floor in a couple of large pieces. It would be possible to re use those right? After installing new wood, and tabbing it to the hull,could I prep and bond those old large pieces onto the new wood, and tab those to the hull as well saving me a lot of glass and resin work?

 

[Woodonglass]

If the Wood and Glass are All in good shape I see no reason not to reuse them. Make sure to prep the Glass properly!!

 

[Bigreddon]

Sweet. I figured as much. I was able to save most of the old foam. It's dry and in good shape, so I'm going to reuse that as well, and fill in voids with closed cell foam. That means i have to put the foam in before the floor...and shave it down level..but it's gonna save me $150!!

 

[Bigreddon]

HA!!! I can't believe how much that foam grew!!! I'll post pics before I trim it. That's the beauty of closed cell..after you trim it, it retains it's w/p properties...

 

[Woodonglass]

HA!!! I can't believe how much that foam grew!!! I'll post pics before I trim it. That's the beauty of closed cell..after you trim it, it retains it's w/p properties...

That's somewhat true but...I'd recommend painting it with some Oil based paint just for some added insurance!!! It Naturally forms an outer skin that really provides a Great outer barrier for waterproofing that you loose when cutting. The Paint kinda puts that back.

 

[Bigreddon]

Good times!!

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhmmm You might want to consider this... Staple a Larger Plastic Leaf Bag to some plywood and then pour the foam in between the stringers and quickly placed the plywood over the stringers and stand on it. If will force the foam to expand down and out along the stringer and flatten out even with the tops saving you a LOT of wasted foam and making for a much neater installation.

 

[Mikeopsycho]

^^^^yup, agreed, the plastic on plywood method works very well. Just let it set up for 10 or 15 minutes before lifting the board or else the foam kinda sticks to it.

 

[Bigreddon]

Yeah...I know that method...or just put the floor in first and drill pour holes. As I stated, im using some of the old foam and have larger pieces in place already and would have Swiss cheese plywood looking for all the voids. That being said...I'm going to finish the wood part, and do the rest in all new foam.

 

[Bigreddon]

You can't see it in the pictures...but less than 1/3 of that is new foam.

 

[Woodonglass]

I understand but the wood/plastic will work the same.

 

[Bigreddon]

Ok...cleaned up and leveled out. I'm going to lay my floor next. THEN I will foam in the rest.

 

[alldodge]

Coming along real nice

 

[Bigreddon]

First piece of the sole!!! Perfect fit first try!!!!(must have done something wrong...)

 

[Bigreddon]

Part deuxe

 

[Woodonglass]

Looking good BRD!!!

 

[Bigreddon]

Used a hole saw and filled foam in through holes. PB the edges, drop in the area in front of the transom, glass the top, new carpet and install the seats and battery box and done!!

 

[Bigreddon]

What type and how thick of glass/mat/roving should be used to cover the wood? Does this provide structural support side to side, or is this strictly for waterproofing and preventing wear? Thanks!

 

[Bigreddon]

Disregard...I read my west system fiberglass repair book. It says to use "a light layer of woven fiberglass fabric on top to prevent checking-6 oz glass is usually sufficient".