New owner questions

Freezebear

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 14, 2003
Messages
93
I am the second owner of a Nitro Bass Boat with a 92 60HP Tracker Pro motor. I want to do everything right. I have gone through the entire boat making it legal and replacing all questionable parts. My philosophy is like this ---If your car breaks down, you can just get out and walk to the next exit, but if your boat breaks down, you won't be walking nowhere. There's only one person who can walk on water! <br />Well I changed the plugs and did a compression check. Got 115psi on all cylinders. Plugs looked dark that came out, but no wear. I am using QL77JC4 but according to chart I could also use L77JC4. What is the difference? The chart says to use the QL plugs if I have VRO, but I have mine disconnected because I'd rather mix my own fuel. So should I run the L77JC4's??<br />Also I changed the lower unit oil last night and went to WallyWorld to get some and was not impressed by the selection. I was looking for a semi or full synthetic, but could only get Castrol 80W90. I put that in but have not run it yet. Went by a Johnson dealer today to see what they have and picked up a bottle of Johnson Ultra-HPF. The Castrol stinks like any gear oil should, but the Johnson stuff is totally different. It hardly smells like anything. Should I dump the gear lube now or should I run it first then change it?? My trip this weekend will consist of about 25 miles. Will the Castrol burn up my lower unit?? <br />Also picked up a can of Johnson Engine Tuner Injection Can. It screw onto the schrader valve. There is a red lever there called the primer lever. It says to leave the lever in the RUN position. What position is that? I did not know I needed to mess with that lever. <br />My other concern is that the boat pulls slightly to starboard if I let go of wheel. Cables are all OK. The trim tab above the prop is all the way to the left if looking from the rear. I moved it 1 notch to the right. Will this clear up my problem or should I go more? Is there anyhting else I should check?<br />Thanks<br />Freeze
 

rickdb1boat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 23, 2002
Messages
11,195
Re: New owner questions

Freeze <br /><br />Sounds like you are on the right track. Use the Johnson Ultra-HPF lower unit fluid. Use QL77JC4's in your motor, as they are suppresion plugs to keep static and such down on your radio and fishfinder, Ect. Red lever is the manual primer lever in case the electric primer goes out. It should be placed in the position aligned with the carbs.(Not Sideways) When starting the engine cold, turn the ingition key to ON, not start, and push and hold the key in for a count of 5. Then while still holding it in, crank the motor over until it starts. You may have to bump the key in a few times to keep it running at first. As for the trim tab, move the rear of the tab in the direction the boat is pulling, Do this in small increments until it runs straight.
 

backdraft

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 29, 2002
Messages
266
Re: New owner questions

Freeze, If the boat is pulling to the right, from the rear of the motor , turn the back end of trim tab to the right. There seems to be some debate how an electric primer works. The only time the primer works and injects fuel is when the fuel pump is pulsating from crankcase pressure fluctuations. There might be a tiny amount of fuel that is injected by the small amount of pressure in the line by squeezing the bulb but the only time the fuel is being injected behind the carbs is when the engine is turning over starting with key pushed in. nevjb
 

kenneths

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 3, 2003
Messages
154
Re: New owner questions

In agreement with nevjb, Primer sollenoid only works when engine is cranking......Positive. :)
 

Dhadley

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 4, 2001
Messages
16,978
Re: New owner questions

The primer is a valve. When you engage it it opens and releases line pressure. You can create line pressure by pumping the bulb, which also ensures the carb bowls are full. <br /><br />Once you have line pressure the motor does not have to be turning over to release fuel into the intake manifold. It will release fuel until there isnt any more pressure. Thats why it doesnt flood the motor unless you create more line pressure. <br /><br />However, if you choose not to pump the bulb on the initial start, you will not release any fuel until you turn over the motor and rely on the fuel pump to create line pressure. In some cases that may take quite a while.<br /><br />The proven method that is easiest on the starter (and the engine) is to pump the bulb (create line pressure) and proceed as Rick has mentioned.<br /><br />Good luck!
 
D

DJ

Guest
Re: New owner questions

Starting Procedure.<br /><br />1. Pump up primer bulb.<br /><br />2. Turn key to "ON" not start.<br /><br />3. Push key in, hold and count to eight.<br /><br />4. Release key and start engine.<br /><br />You may have to bump the key in a few times as it's warming up.<br /><br />This is for starting cold only. When warm, you should beable to just turn the key and fire it up.
 

Freezebear

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 14, 2003
Messages
93
Re: New owner questions

Aligned with the carbs? Not sure I follow you there. Should it be horizontal so that it is parrallel to the carbs? Or do you mean straight up and down. Perpindicular to the carbs?<br />Thanks for the trim tab info. That's what I did. I moved it to the right one reference number. Guess I will take my ratchet set with me tommorow. Going outside right now to drain the Castrol out and put the Johnson HPF in. Do not want to take chances. I'll check back in when I'm done to see where I should put the lever.
 

Freezebear

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 14, 2003
Messages
93
Re: New owner questions

Thanks Rick. Idiots like me need pictures sometimes. Going back outside to put the lever back. I put it pointing forward. :rolleyes: <br />I thought it felt like it clicked when I put it facing back.<br />Two more concerns I noticed.<br />1- When I spin the prop by hand, I can hardly hear a slight noise in the lower unit. It sounds like a rub, but is very faint and only does it once for each time you spin it.<br />2- In the engine compartment I see some oil in there. Found the cap missing at the schrader valve connection where the red lever is. Replaced it with a tire cap. Do these motors normally have some oil in the bottom?<br />Thanks again everyone. Glad to know I have somewhere to turn besides the stupid dealers.
 

rickdb1boat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 23, 2002
Messages
11,195
Re: New owner questions

Freeze <br /><br />#1 Is no problem. Normal noise.<br /><br />#2 Yes, some oil is normally present in the bottom pan of the motor due to carb leakage when the motor gets tilted up. Nothing to worry about!<br /><br />#3 Schrader valve is for fogging, if you didn't already know.
 

Freezebear

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 14, 2003
Messages
93
Re: New owner questions

Thanks Rick! Just was getting a little paranoid about my motor. Have had bad luck with 2 70's year model 25HP Johnsons. First one left me stranded in the Bay and started drifting out to sea. Second one developed a crack in the exhaust baffle plate and started drinking water on the top piston, ruined the needle bearings, piston, and wrist pin before I figured out why it wasn't running right. Compression check showed good!<br />Well I'm going to stop worrying about it and am gettin up early to make my 7 mile run out to CatIsland for my appointment with Mr. Redfish!!!!
 

kenneths

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 3, 2003
Messages
154
Re: New owner questions

Disagree with the start sequence listed... the only reason there is pressure is because the line is made of rubber. Talked with Rick Albers-Tech with the original OMC gang this am., on this and he disagreed with this method as well. <br />If the engine is properly tuned, it will start within 1 second, by first pumping bulb until firm, turn key to on,-push at start, as the bowls are as full as they can get, why waste pressured fuel only to be built-up again after start...it has nowhere to go.<br /> If you push choke valve at crank, you get MORE pressure through intake lines, and actually have a quicker start than the method stated above.<br /> BUT, as Rick said, all have their own way, and the method in the operators manual is stated to insure fool-proof starts without flooding- his opinion though-this is not the "Best" way.<br /> I guess I must also add, if it works...use it! :)
 

AUGIDAWG

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 31, 2002
Messages
189
Re: New owner questions

I tried the key on, count to eight, then start, yesterday. Didn't work for me.<br /><br />The pump the bulb and push on key until it starts works best for me. Then, I pump the bulb again after it starts to help remove the air in the line. After the initial start in the morning, I never need to pump or press again.
 

rickdb1boat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 23, 2002
Messages
11,195
Re: New owner questions

AUGIDAWG <br /><br />Did you pump the bulb First? I'll admit that I hold the key in for a count of 5 After I pump up the bulb and still continue to hold it until it starts, which is usually in a couple seconds. Whatever works for ya!
 
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