New to me 1967 Evinrude 9.5hp Sportwin

[scout-j-m]

I just bought a 1967 Evinrude 9.5 hp Sportwin (model 9722M). The compression was between 65-70 psi on both cylinders using the recoil starter. From everything I have read, that is acceptable and would likely go up if I used a rope on the flywheel and re-tested it...plus maybe more after a decarb. The seller sent me a video of it running, it just ran really rough at low speed. So with ok compression and at least enough spark for it to run I feel good about diving into this project.

However, I came to post a question. This motor has had a bunch of holes drilled into the top cowling and the dampening foam removed directly above the carb intake. Obviously this could be due to a few different things but I was wondering if these motors are known to have exhaust leaks or if there is any other good explanation for these holes on this particular model?

 

[F_R]

Ah yes, the old smoke inhalation problem. A big problem with the 9.5. Or should I say problems. There are several causes of it. But before you get into all that, be aware that they won't run in a barrel with the hood on because it sits right down in the smoke. So try it on a boat before you panic.

Also concerning the rough running: Make sure the upper front rubber motor mount isn't broken. Grab hold of the flywheel (not running, duh) and see if you can move the whole powerhead fore and aft. A slight rubbery feel is normal, major flopping around in there is not.

 

[scout-j-m]

Thank you F_R. I recall reading what you said about running it in a barrel. I will do all the stuff in the secret files beforehand and try testing the mounts like you mentioned. One thing to point out... When I met the guy to look it over and check the compression, he discovered the spark plugs were only finger tight as I was digging in my toolbox for the plug socket. He said he hadn't touched them since running it so there is that for whatever it is worth lol.

It will be another week or so before I get into messing with it. I'll see what I can do on my own and start a new thread with any issues. I do have a clymer service manual for it already so that will be helpful.

 

[scout-j-m]

I gave the motor a good look over before I put it in my dad's basement for the time being. Since I bought it, I have read through Leroy's Ramblings on this model a few times so I knew better what to check out. Everything looked really good. Only obvious issues were some bare wire on the kill circuit I'll need to fix and the choke knob broke off when I put it on my makeshift stand which happened to be a squat rack. And not really a problem per say but I noticed that the throttle butterfly doesn't open anywhere close to fully at full throttle so a link 'n sync will definitely be in order. I bet that was a contributing factor to an underperforming motor for a previous owner which may have led to its sale.I also tried rocking the powerhead front to back by the flywheel and it didn't have much give so maybe the mounts are good. The seller did explicitly say they were. Anyways, like I said, I will go through it to the best of my knowledge and come back to the forum with any issues.

 

[racerone]

Is it in gear when you checked the throttle opening ?

 

[scout-j-m]

Is it in gear when you checked the throttle opening ?

I think so but I can't remember for sure. I'll make sure to check that out.

 

[scout-j-m]

Is it in gear when you checked the throttle opening ?

I have been reading through my manuals and Leroy's Ramblings some more in my spare time and gave it another look over this evening after work. Pertaining to your question above, the throttle isn't opening all the way while in gear. Actually, the neutral lockout linkage adjustment is out of whack and doesn't function at all. The throttle limiter for when it's in reverse does, however. I believe I know how to correct this.

Going along with that, the throttle linkage is juts really off. I have to turn the tiller handle throttle well past the start position to even get the throttle butterfly to move at all. Again, thanks to my manuals and Leroy, I think I can fix this easily enough.

Now for the interesting thing I noticed. I had a look at the spark plugs and they were Champion L86C's. I'm sure they are for a variety of engines but they seemed to most commonly be for a John Deere mower. Looks like someone juts threw some random plugs from their workbench in there. They also had basically no gap on them. I looked inside the cylinder and it was obvious they were smashing into the piston. Comparing those plugs to the recommended Champion J4C's, they have a 12.7mm threadreach versus 9.5mm.

I still think the motor looks really clean and pairing that with good compression, I'm hoping some new correctly gapped plugs and a link and sync will allow me to get it running and go from there.

 

[Crosbyman]

that carb's intake face upwards... better not have any holes above it otherwise rain/splash water will get directly into the engine carb intake !!

​ I got a 9623 SUPER CLEAN for 50$... seized hard.. soaked it 3 weeks redid ignition carb etc... now works like new

Great little engine now serves as a troller and back up to my 75 ETEC

 

[scout-j-m]

that carb's intake face upwards... better not have any holes above it otherwise rain/splash water will get directly into the engine carb intake !!

​ I got a 9623 SUPER CLEAN for 50$... seized hard.. soaked it 3 weeks redid ignition carb etc... now works like new

Great little engine now serves as a troller and back up to my 75 ETEC

Yeah, that is why I definitely want to see if their was a warranted reason the holes were drilled and if there is, fix it so I can patch them up and keep the carb clean.

On a side note, I got some new J4C plugs, tested (successfully) for basic spark by grounding them to the head, and synced the throttle control so the carb butterfly fully opens at WOT. Gonna try to start it in a barrel one evening after work this week and if it runs and pumps water go give it a lake test on my little flatbottom.

 

[racerone]

Using the plugs to test for spark can be a waste of time.----The history on these magnetos is as follows.----It will have 2 new coils already or it needs them.----Using a gap tester with a 5/16" gap is a proper test for spark !

 

[scout-j-m]

Using the plugs to test for spark can be a waste of time.----The history on these magnetos is as follows.----It will have 2 new coils already or it needs them.----Using a gap tester with a 5/16" gap is a proper test for spark !

I agree. I just didn't have my tester handy at the time. I'll give them a true test before I try to start it.

 

[scout-j-m]

I did a true spark test yesterday but had mixed results. There was a good spark the first pull on each plug lead but seemed to fade out or fail to jump on subsequent pulls. I did just have the tester clamped straight to a head bolt though so maybe there was a connection issue there. Typically I run a pair of alligator clips from the tester to a good, clean ground. I'll try that next. Then go ahead and pull the flywheel to at least check and clean the points.

The positive from yesterday is that, despite an iffy spark test, I was able to get the motor started and it ran fairly well. It had good water output and it had good throttle response when warm and ran smooth at faster rpms. I had trouble getting it to idle though and the engine was really knocking around. At one point I had it running smooth at forward idle but it became erratic once I shifted into neutral. Maybe the ignition system just needs some tweaking or an overhaul. Anyways, that's my next planned step, followed by fuel line replacement, filter cleaning, and carb cleaning.

 

[racerone]

A good magneto will fire across a 5/16 " gap with a snap you can hear multiple times each pull..----Time to pull the flywheel.

 

[scout-j-m]

A good magneto will fire across a 5/16 " gap with a snap you can hear multiple times each pull..----Time to pull the flywheel.

Will do. Thank you!

 

[Crosbyman]

No Title

not bad for $50 and parts... mdl 9623 a

 

[scout-j-m]

not bad for $50 and parts... mdl 9623 a

Very nice! Mine is not near that nice of condition and cost about 5 times that lol. Here in the south, these smaller motors run very high. I'm not sure why. Occasionally some really good deals can be had but you have to get very lucky to find them on online classifieds like Craigslist as they go FAST. In fact, I frequently see these models in worse shape than yours but advertised as running for $500+.

 

[racerone]

People are beginning to realize how good these motors are.---------They are beginning to realize how easy / cheap they are to maintain if you do the work yourself.

 

[scout-j-m]

A new observation from today...while just seeing how easily I could restart the motor and run it for a few minutes, I noticed the head get pretty hot. I didn't have my IR thermometer on me so I don't know exactly how warm it was getting though. It was also pumping water good too. If it is pumping water can it still be the thermostat? Or is it more likely the thermostat is just not opening fully?

 

[racerone]

The thermostat sits right on top of the head.---Did I say these motors are easy to work on.---Check it.

 

[scout-j-m]

The thermostat sits right on top of the head.---Did I say these motors are easy to work on.---Check it.

Ha, thanks.