New User Introduction.

[jasoutside]

Re: New User Introduction.

Your transom and knee braces are looking pretty solid, nice

 

[1959Cherokee]

Re: New User Introduction.

Are those "thru holes" with bolts/nuts holding them in place? If so I would just drill new holes. Start by mounting to your new wood on transom, then you can use the knee as a guide to get your new holes drilled in correct location. I would also pre drill a small block of aluminum or wood then line that hole up with the existing hole and clamp it down. This will aid in preventing your drill from wandering all over and elongating your hole.

I think I'm getting what your suggesting.
I know for certain the fastener holes through the stringers at the base of the knees will have to be moved forward roughly 22/32nd's of an inch, or the length of the additional layer of ply I added to the interior.
I suppose I can apply your logic to where the knees mount to the transom as well, if I first secure the knees in place I could then drill through, inside to outside, and straight through the aluminum, to get my final fastener location.
Sorry I know this isn't very easy to understand through typing.

I still just am not sure if the original 8 holes through the aluminum skin will correspond with the new holes I drill in my transom, with the knees forward that is.
Basically I really want to avoid drilling, and then having two sets of drill holes RIGHT next to one another, or worse, enlarging the existing holes.

Thanks Jas, I appreciate the vote of confidence!!

 

[1959Cherokee]

Re: New User Introduction.

Ok guys I could really use a consult here!!
I just finished glassing my transom, sorry I don't have pics right now, they'll be uploaded later.
This was my first rodeo laying glass and have some questions regarding it.

First off I was using the 8 sq ft packs of 3m CSM available at HD.
The size was actually perfect for my transom as they were roughly 4'x2' and covered my transom with room to wrap around the edges.

My main concern is how much resin is this mat supposed to take?
I was completely caught off guard with how much it took to wet all the mat down.
I started by pouring resin onto the bare wood and spreading it out and then laying down the glass.

I kept pouring until all the air bubbles were out and it layed down completely against the wood.

I used at least half a gallon of resin to get it to do this though!!

Also, when applying resin to CSM is it best to NOT try and spread the resin out?
I ask because I tried to spread it and my CSM started falling apart and shedded chunks off and made an awful mess.
Should I have just poured the resin onto the mat and let it absorb it all?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: New User Introduction.

You should do some reading here on the forum on how to apply CSM. The stuff at HD is pretty much not recommened. It has wax and the CSM is .75 oz. You should always precoat the wood with resin first cause the wood will soak up the resin quite a bit. After it is precoated and dry you then apply another coat and lay the CSM on top of it and use a roller to roll it smooth. Typically you should use 1.5 oz CSM. Usually you have to order the resin and CSM online to get the quality you need. A transom of your size will take approx. 1 1/2 gallons of resin. Air bubbles in the surface are extremely bad because they will allow water to penetrate the glass and then wet the wood. Based on your description, I'd recommend sanding off everything or just start over with the correct resing and glass.

 

[1959Cherokee]

Re: New User Introduction.

Why in the world would I sand it all down now??
I said there are no air bubbles, I was just curious about the method of application used and amount of resin it should take.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: New User Introduction.

Post some pics so we can see but again your materials of choice are not the best. If the csm pulled off in chunks and globbed up on you then you may have issuse with it being waterproof and sealed properly. The pics should tell the tale.

 

[1959Cherokee]

Re: New User Introduction.

Ok, here we are with some pictures.
Sorry I realize they're not the best but after all its pitch black outside.

I realize there are strands of glass I will need to sand down before installing it but the glass did lay down underneath.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: New User Introduction.

Ok not as bad as your description led me to believe. I'm still concerned about delamination since you did not precoat the plywood first and let it dry. Guess we'll just have to see. I'd really inspect it well and make sure there are no voids especially on the edges. If you have any doubts, sand with 180 grit, wash with acetone and apply more CSM and resin to the suspect areas. Once satisfied that it is totally sealed and waterproof, sand it all with 180 grit and wash with acetone. I would then give it 2-3 coats of Rustoleum Oil based paint and call it good.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: New User Introduction.

Thanks for popping in here WOG. Danny, most of the metal boat guys go a different route so many of us would be flying blind on glassen stuff.

 

[wlg]

Re: New User Introduction.

Just my opinion, but I did not use resin or glass on my rebuild. The wood in my boat was 32 years old before it got replaced and all that I could find on it was paint, vinyl and carpet. I chose to do it the same. With that thought in mind, I also do not plan on keeping it forever. It will probably outlast me and if it dose not, then the next fella can have a go at it. JMO

 

[GT1000000]

Re: New User Introduction.

Wow Cherokee,
You have been a busy bee. The transom is looking factory.
Excellent progress.
GT

 

[1959Cherokee]

Re: New User Introduction.

Just my opinion, but I did not use resin or glass on my rebuild. The wood in my boat was 32 years old before it got replaced and all that I could find on it was paint, vinyl and carpet. I chose to do it the same. With that thought in mind, I also do not plan on keeping it forever. It will probably outlast me and if it dose not, then the next fella can have a go at it. JMO

I have owned boats in the past where I have taken that route, cut some wood, painted it, toss it in and called it good...
Then, within a few months time I had the joints swelling, the paint peeling off poor fitment issues because the wood actually expanded, and then rot setting in.
I certainly didn't want to go through that again, its kinda heartbreaking.


And thanks GT but the glass laying on the transom is second rate amateur work IMO

 

[1959Cherokee]

Re: New User Introduction.

Well I pulled my transom out of the shed where I had it drying to begin sanding and had to stop because I am simply too frustrated to operate tools.
The glass started ripping off in chunks where it didn't adhere to the wood underneath.
The worst areas are around the edges.
What I would really like to do is remove all the de-laminated material, sand, and then epoxy the whole thing.
What, if any issues will there be with this plan?

 

[iCam]

Re: New User Introduction.

Boats looking good, It will be something that your proud of when you are done!

Since you are doing the extra effort for this long shaft motor I would highly suggest ordering (or plan to order) the basic tune up items. You have no idea how it was maintained prior to you owning it. I would plan on at least a new impeller and inspect the lower units oil to make sure your seals are good. I would hate to see you do this work on the new transom and your motor burn up, and you have to get a new one anyway.

I'm just thinking ahead.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: New User Introduction.

Bummer dood...that suxxx to Nth degree...

Not much in the way of an idea, but would it be more cost/labor efficient to start out with a fresh piece of plywood???

My only inexperienced concern would be trying to get to the point where the resin that's soaked into the wood, may affect the application of epoxy, but then again, other more knowledgeable minds will know the correct answer to this dilemna...

Just thinking too loudly, please, forgive...:redface:

 

[1959Cherokee]

Re: New User Introduction.

Hey man I'm right there with ya, just kicking mental footballs until WOG rolls around
I've read online epoxy will bond to a sanded polyester finish but would like to hear from someone with practical experience.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: New User Introduction.

I'm really sorry about your issues. I suspected that it might be the case. Here's the problem Poly resin without mat is very brittle and cracks easily. If you want to use the same wood you would need to sand down to bare wood and then coat with epoxy to ensure everything would be sealed properly and there would be not further issues. IMHO, I think I would bite the bullet and just start over. Learning from our mistakes is not an easy thing but they are the lessons that seem to stick with us the longest. At least you know how to build a good one and the second should be even better.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: New User Introduction.

Would you mind if I speak out on this 1959 ?

I am holding my breath on this issue that you and probably many others have about lamming on Ply (again).

You say the word and I will tell you were you went wrong ( Woody already told you in your prep ).

YD.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: New User Introduction.

Yah, I hate to say it but starting over would prolly be best, sorry. Run with just epoxy or keep a sharp ear for what the glass guys tell ya. You'll get it buddy!