no oil after cylinder head recondition

tank1949

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 4, 2013
Messages
1,911
I checked the lifters over the weekend. I could visually see 2 had what looked like sludge on the top of them. The others did not have any spring to them when i tried to depress the pushrod. i'm going to install all new Lifters, as opposed to trying to clean them, after, after i change the oil 1 more time .

I see the Ac Delco - HL121 and GM - 17120060
are compatible with my engine. Hopefully the old ones won't be too difficult coming out.
Appreciate the info you all provided.
were lifters full of oil?
 

ESGWheel

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 29, 2015
Messages
534
Bent??? U have more headaches than described. Block may have froze and later hydro-locked?
Tank, Good catch... i think we all missed that... i know i did!
Wendellbee > agree with Tank and this engine may need more… can u provide a quick summary of where you are at now, parts changed, things checked?
 

wendellbee

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 3, 2014
Messages
40
Bent??? U have more headaches than described. Block may have froze and later hydro-locked?
Nothing hydrolocked or froze. exhaust valves were rusted. I have run the engine since re-installing the heads and engine sound good. It was winterized, oil changed, and raw water system completely drained. I installed 2 bilge heaters to prevent freezing temps in then bilge (theybavtually work very well, even had one in the cabin. boat was always toasty when i checked even when temps were below 30. Plus I left a jar of water in the bilge which survived.
 

wendellbee

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 3, 2014
Messages
40
Tank, Good catch... i think we all missed that... i know i did!
Wendellbee > agree with Tank and this engine may need more… can u provide a quick summary of where you are at now, parts changed, things checked?
Nothing hydrolocked or frozen. Engine running when i winterized it. Since the heads were redone and installed, engine was started and run with no abnormal sounds. Only issue was lack of oil coming up thru pushrods. Oil pressure was a little over 60. Lifters should arrive 4/11. I'm hoping to get to the boat this weekend to replace them and button everything back up.

Question - will soaking the lifters in oil pump them up or will it just provide some lube for start-up. I've always been told not to pump them full of oil before installing.
 

tank1949

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 4, 2013
Messages
1,911
Nothing hydrolocked or frozen. Engine running when i winterized it. Since the heads were redone and installed, engine was started and run with no abnormal sounds. Only issue was lack of oil coming up thru pushrods. Oil pressure was a little over 60. Lifters should arrive 4/11. I'm hoping to get to the boat this weekend to replace them and button everything back up.

Question - will soaking the lifters in oil pump them up or will it just provide some lube for start-up. I've always been told not to pump them full of oil before installing.
I have always soak in oil and pump them with push rod
 
Joined
Dec 22, 2023
Messages
10
Lifters should pump up if there is oil pressure. If they are shot, they may not pump up, but would still send oil up the push rod. Did you stuff the tips of the push rods full of Molly break in lube or grease? There is not a lot of oil pressure or volume in the push rod. Chevy push rods are almost always coked up to the point of almost being blocked by 200K. I've seen them where you can't even see light through them.

Old school stock lifters use to send a lot of oil up top, performance lifters use to have a smaller office to send less oil up top, as you could suspend about a quart in each head at sustained high RPM's. Im guessing marine engines are designed for a "tractor" application (constant rpm) high rpm at that, that they may have lifters which limit top end oil volume.

Chevy oiling from the pump, to mains and up to the cam, the distributor has an upper flange (about midway up) that seals an area to send oil to the lifters. If you ever "primed" an engine there is a tool that resembles a distributor shaft that you can spin with a drill to pre-oil an engine prior to start up. If you try this with a ratchet extension and coupler it will make oil pressure, but not at the top end, no mid seal to pressurize the lifter galley.

Before I did lifters, I would pull the intake and use an oil pump priming tool and see what's going on at the lifters.
 

tank1949

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 4, 2013
Messages
1,911
Lifters should pump up if there is oil pressure. If they are shot, they may not pump up, but would still send oil up the push rod. Did you stuff the tips of the push rods full of Molly break in lube or grease? There is not a lot of oil pressure or volume in the push rod. Chevy push rods are almost always coked up to the point of almost being blocked by 200K. I've seen them where you can't even see light through them.

Old school stock lifters use to send a lot of oil up top, performance lifters use to have a smaller office to send less oil up top, as you could suspend about a quart in each head at sustained high RPM's. Im guessing marine engines are designed for a "tractor" application (constant rpm) high rpm at that, that they may have lifters which limit top end oil volume.

Chevy oiling from the pump, to mains and up to the cam, the distributor has an upper flange (about midway up) that seals an area to send oil to the lifters. If you ever "primed" an engine there is a tool that resembles a distributor shaft that you can spin with a drill to pre-oil an engine prior to start up. If you try this with a ratchet extension and coupler it will make oil pressure, but not at the top end, no mid seal to pressurize the lifter galley.

Before I did lifters, I would pull the intake and use an oil pump priming tool and see what's going on at the lifters.
An electrical drill works a lot faster and you should be able to see oil come through push rods/ rocker arms. If not....
 
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