No Oil Alarm 2000 Johnson 175 Ocean Pro

[jakedaawg]

I think you will end up with a new system check gauge and possibly a new vacuum switch. 10 in/Hg is not that far out considering varience in gauge. The point is it makes continuity. Call the switch good for now.

 

[chevysam41]

Regarding the VRO test, could you post pics of the pages detailing the procedure? I can't seem to find that manual for sale online. Even eBay is coming up empty. Guess the experts have all the copies ;-)

Also, by system check gauge, you're referring to a whole new tach with warning lights, correct?

What's the likelihood based on this that this is an overheat problem? I can swap out the impeller if y'all think I need to to be safe.

 

[cfauvel]

I know several have posted in the last few hours but they are not showing up on my phone for some reason. I'll get on the computer when I'm back in the house.

Anywho, I'm on the boat right now doing the vacuum test again. On the switch I don't get continuity until 10inHg (5.5" hose coming off the switch). More worrisome fact is that the horn never sounds...

Yikes 10 inHg....that's high...but that MAY BE right for your application....I'll defer.

can you ground the temp sensor tan wire with ignition ON, and see if HOT illuminates and horn sounds?
horn sounds once with the key being turned to ON right?

 

[cfauvel]

Did this also- oil reservoir and filter looked to be in good shape. No horn though, only "low oil illuminating on the tach...

starting to suspect horn and system check gauge.

 

[cfauvel]

Yep, time to test VRO...detailed in manual. Whatever you do, the oil side is not something you open up. Non serviceable!

Also need to eliminate a bad system check gauge. You do this by eliminating all other possible problems.

You can replace the o-rings on the oil side, but yes ONLY if they are leaking oil....they usually don't so don't disassemble that UNLESS you REALLY have to.
(the suspected reason why they don't want you messing with that is because the housing that the screws go into tends to lose its threads then you're left with two halves that don't go together snugly and thus causes oil leaks)

**SEAL, Filter housing
[FONT=&quot]0124886[/FONT]

is the oblong o-ring

**SEAL, Actuator shaft
[FONT=&quot]0125396[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]is the reset pin's o-ring....tiny blue o-ring that comes in the fuel pump diaphragm kit..


I'm with JakeDawg on this...starting to sound like either the horn or the gauge is faulty (or both), but go through the various no-oil and oil consumption tests.....like I said my marine surplus store has plenty of them....maybe you have a store like that near you...PM if you don't.


if you are interested in a long read[/FONT]

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...f-the-vro2-oms

 

[chevysam41]

Ok, a few questions...

...Figured the engine was 15 years old at the time it would not be a bad thing to just replace the pump. I am glad I did. It seems to me that somewhere in the electronics of the pump something was not right. To this day I still know not what caused the alarm to go off but the new pump did solve the problem. For what its is worth. Try a portable tank with a new bulb, known to be functioning properly, see if the issue is resolved. Use premix fuel until you get this figured out so that if you are not pumping oil you will not ruin your engine.

I assume you're referring to VRO pump? And I will definitely be using a separate pre-mix tank.

...Steps to take would be to run on portable premix tank with pump and tank wiring unhooked. Does alarm still sound? If yes use temp stick and whatever else you need to trouble shoot overheat or temp sensor malfunction. Water out the tell tale tells little, this exits before block. Also would need to trouble shoot fuel pressure and fuel vacuum as the same horn would sound but check engine light I believe illuminates.

Just to be clear, which pump/tank wiring are you suggesting I unhook? I'm starting to go cross-eyed lol. If that alarm still sounds or the light comes on I can check temperature with laser thermometer. What should an acceptable temperature be? I know the thermostat on my 15HP opens around 150-160, but stabilizes around 130*.

can you ground the temp sensor tan wire with ignition ON, and see if HOT illuminates and horn sounds?
horn sounds once with the key being turned to ON right?

I'll try this first thing tomorrow. And yes, horn sounds once. I didn't think to check to see if one of the lights illuminated when I put on 10 inHg on the vacuum switch, with it connected. I'll double check that too.


When I get around to trying jakedaawg's suggestions, I guess I'll need to be on the water. I'll have to spin the motor up to 28-3000 RPM and I have kinda low water pressure on my spigot. Will probably be the weekend before I can do that. Get a bigger boat they said...it'll be fun they said...lol

 

[chevysam41]

No Title

can you ground the temp sensor tan wire with ignition ON, and see if HOT illuminates and horn sounds?
horn sounds once with the key being turned to ON right?

Ok, so this morning I disconnected the temperature sensor at the 2-pin disconnect (red square on the attached photo). When I completed the circuit, I received no horn or red flag on the tach.

I did not reinstall the oil reservoir last night, so the oil pickup is just hanging in the top of the bucket. As such, the low oil light SHOULD have been illuminated as it was last night, but it wasn't. Horn still sounding once when key put to ON...

EDIT: I did this for the port side temp. sensor only

 

[cfauvel]

Ok, so this morning I disconnected the temperature sensor at the 2-pin disconnect (red square on the attached photo). When I completed the circuit, I received no horn or red flag on the tach.

I did not reinstall the oil reservoir last night, so the oil pickup is just hanging in the top of the bucket. As such, the low oil light SHOULD have been illuminated as it was last night, but it wasn't. Horn still sounding once when key put to ON...

EDIT: I did this for the port side temp. sensor only

Just to be clear you have to ground the tan wire that goes TO the console, not ground the tan wire AT the temp sensor.

Temp Sensor -> connector <- tan wire to console.
Disconnect at the connector and ground the tan right that goes to the console.


I assume the ignition key was in the ON position?

 

[chevysam41]

Yes, I did the side going to the console. Should I take a video and post?

 

[cfauvel]

Yes, I did the side going to the console. Should I take a video and post?

No but dang...it keeps getting worse....

Take a pic of your system check gauge

 

[chevysam41]

Just a picture of the front of the gauge? I'll take one when I get off work. I have someone on my phone but when zoomed in you can't see a lot of detail.

 

[cfauvel]

Just a picture of the front of the gauge? I'll take one when I get off work. I have someone on my phone but when zoomed in you can't see a lot of detail.

yeah just the front...so I can find a matching one at my marine surplus store.

 

[jakedaawg]

Regarding the VRO test, could you post pics of the pages detailing the procedure? I can't seem to find that manual for sale online. Even eBay is coming up empty. Guess the experts have all the copies ;-)

Also, by system check gauge, you're referring to a whole new tach with warning lights, correct?

What's the likelihood based on this that this is an overheat problem? I can swap out the impeller if y'all think I need to to be safe.

I think we would need permission from a mod for me to post pics of manual pages. Copyright stuff maybe. I don't want to get in trouble, I like the forum.

I do see where I was thinking wrong, this thread got really disorganized. You will probably end up with a new vro not a gauge. I forgot about the part where your rpms drop when the light illuminates. If I recall correctly, some guages only sound a solid horn and then light the appropriate warning light to let you know which horn it is. I have run accross this before.

Either way, get the manual, do the fuel line vacuum, fuel line pressure, no oil sensor test, oil consumption test before you make any purchases.

Also, while running on a portable tank with pre mix and 3/8' fuel line un plug the wires coming from the VRO and the oil tank and see if you still have the issue. This is step 1. report back.

 

[cfauvel]

^^^^ concur ^^^^

NOTE: the oil side electronics is available solely if you find the fuel pump and air motor is fine.... 0438955 *INLET HOUSING ASSY.

new part number is 5006415

search for it...it includes the electronics and the oil chamber and o-ring connecting the oil chamber to intermediate housing.

 

[Fed]

Ok, so this morning I disconnected the temperature sensor at the 2-pin disconnect (red square on the attached photo). When I completed the circuit, I received no horn or red flag on the tach.

"When I completed the circuit" doesn't sound like you grounded the right wire?
Did you complete the circuit between the wires of a Quick Start 2 wire sensor maybe?

I think the Starboard side only has a single wire to the sensor, if so unplug it and ground it (Not the sensor wire the other one in your hand).

 

[chevysam41]

yeah just the front...so I can find a matching one at my marine surplus store.

See attached photo

I think we would need permission from a mod for me to post pics of manual pages. Copyright stuff maybe. I don't want to get in trouble, I like the forum.

I do see where I was thinking wrong, this thread got really disorganized. You will probably end up with a new vro not a gauge. I forgot about the part where your rpms drop when the light illuminates. If I recall correctly, some guages only sound a solid horn and then light the appropriate warning light to let you know which horn it is. I have run accross this before.

Either way, get the manual, do the fuel line vacuum, fuel line pressure, no oil sensor test, oil consumption test before you make any purchases.

Also, while running on a portable tank with pre mix and 3/8' fuel line un plug the wires coming from the VRO and the oil tank and see if you still have the issue. This is step 1. report back.

I understand. I'll have to see if there is someplace I can find the test steps online, because right now I don't know where to even get the manual. Also, my RPMs don't drop on their own - I only de-throttled for fear of having no oil. Will try Step 1 over the weekend (I hope)

"When I completed the circuit" doesn't sound like you grounded the right wire?
Did you complete the circuit between the wires of a Quick Start 2 wire sensor maybe?

I think the Starboard side only has a single wire to the sensor, if so unplug it and ground it (Not the sensor wire the other one in your hand).

I don't think so...I'll double check and try the starboard side in the morning before work.

This thread has definitely gotten confusing/disorganized at times. I really appreciate everyone's patience and willingness to help out. If I don't get it figured out, it won't be because I didn't have any help!

 

[cfauvel]

No -oil test is simple.
use a gallon tank with 50:1 premx....
disconnect the oil inlet and run the motor at 1500 - 2000rpm....horn should sound in about a minute 30 seconds, may take up to 4 minutes, definitely by 5 minutes.
in your case the System Check NO-Oil light should come on and the horn should start beeping.

Low-oil test you know how to do.
run boat on pre-mix
at idle muck around with the oil pick up float...when down, the System Check low-oil should light up and the horn should sound with a BEEP then a Pause then a Beep and a Pause (something like 20 seconds for th epause)


Oil consumption test is simple too
get about a foot of clear 1/4 "ID vinyl tubing. Mark at least three inches worth with a mark at each 1/2 ".
attach tube to the oil inlet of VRO.
position tube vertically
Fill the tube with TCW3
start motor running on pre-mix, and running at 1500 rpm, the oil should go down 3 inches in about 6-8 pulses.
Pulses can be felt and seen in the clear tune...squeeze the tune slightly and feel the pulses, or look at the oil level ....a pulse will show as a very slight rise in the oil level JUST before the oil is drawn into the oil chamber.

the motor doesn't have to be running for overheat condition, just key to ON and the temp's tan wire grounded.

as stated in the continuous wave thread...you can ground any of monitor pins behind the gauge to trigger the various warnings...read the thread again) Might be difficult to do with the deutch (sic) connector...maybe back probe...or a bunch of jumper wires coming from the duetch female connector to the gauge's male pins.
the gauge needs purple wire, black ground , grey tach (if you have it) and then you'll be grounding the various pins that match up with the tan wires on the female end...

Don't see pic of Gauge

 

[chevysam41]

No Title

Thanks cfauvel - I really appreciate it. I picked up an extra portable 3/8" fuel line and hope to test it out this weekend.

Gauge picture attached. I think I might've deleted it by accident when I edited the thread last night.

 

[Fed]

This is from the 2004 Operators Guide which I believe is freely available, hope it doesn't confuse things with your 2000 model.
One thing I noticed is that the beep codes seems to nave been done away with & they rely solely on the indicator lights plus a 10 second beep?
I dunno but here it is FWIW.

 

[cfauvel]

wow that was a great find....not sure I like the lack of cadence......