outboard paint job not lookin too good. phantom black cans?

robaloroger

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 16, 2010
Messages
123
I just painted an optimax v6 last night. I used quicksilvers phantom black in the spray can. I gave 3 light coats 1 hour apart and did not like the final result. You can see the lines from the can and it looks like it has shiny streaks and dull streaks.. The streaks were there before the clear coat. I held the can about 8 inches away like it said on the can but looks like junk. I did light coats because I did not want the paint to run. After the final coat I clear coated within 25 minutes and 2nd clear coat after 2 hours. I followed directions of the can and prepped for 7 hours. I dont think the prep was an issue. Does it sound like I was too far or too close with the can? I tried not to go too fast. I ended up using 2 full cans of paint and 1 clear coat . To repaint would a quick sand and wipe down be good enough and how long should I wait?
Thanks in advance
 

Frank Acampora

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Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: outboard paint job not lookin too good. phantom black cans?

Two cans is not enough for a cover of that size. Three to four would give better coverage. It does sound like you sprayed too thinly, with not enough overlap between coats. AND--Black, while very nice to look at, shows the most imperfections and is most difficult to get perfect.
You also can NOT rush painting. You can do it fast and sloppy---if that's what you want, slow and pretty, or just half fast.

It is almost a necessity to wet sand between coats. For a nice finish, during prep you should sand the surface to even it, then wet sand before the primer.
You may think that it looks good but the primer will show imperfections. That's why it is sandable and why they make spot filler. After primer it will look pretty good, but the first coat of finish will show MOUNTAINS of imperfections. So again, wet sand starting with 400 and progressing up to 600 or even 1000 grit between final coats. Figure about three days to do a passable job on an engine hood.

Spraying takes a certain amount of experience to "Feel" a heavy enough coat yet not develop sags and runs. Too light and the lap marks will show. You need to learn how fast to move the can over the surface. You also need to start the spray before you start the stroke and continue after you end. Keep the can the same distance from the surface--in other words, follow the curves. Release the button between strokes.

Also, for future reference: Sometimes, before the clear coat, if you mist a light coating of solvent on it, it helps to even out the paint. But there again: Gotta be real careful!
 

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robaloroger

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 16, 2010
Messages
123
Re: outboard paint job not lookin too good. phantom black cans?

Two cans is not enough for a cover of that size. Three to four would give better coverage. It does sound like you sprayed too thinly, with not enough overlap between coats. AND--Black, while very nice to look at, shows the most imperfections and is most difficult to get perfect.
You also can NOT rush painting. You can do it fast and sloppy---if that's what you want, slow and pretty, or just half fast.

It is almost a necessity to wet sand between coats. For a nice finish, during prep you should sand the surface to even it, then wet sand before the primer.
You may think that it looks good but the primer will show imperfections. That's why it is sandable and why they make spot filler. After primer it will look pretty good, but the first coat of finish will show MOUNTAINS of imperfections. So again, wet sand starting with 400 and progressing up to 600 or even 1000 grit between final coats. Figure about three days to do a passable job on an engine hood.

Spraying takes a certain amount of experience to "Feel" a heavy enough coat yet not develop sags and runs. Too light and the lap marks will show. You need to learn how fast to move the can over the surface. You also need to start the spray before you start the stroke and continue after you end. Keep the can the same distance from the surface--in other words, follow the curves. Release the button between strokes.

Also, for future reference: Sometimes, before the clear coat, if you mist a light coating of solvent on it, it helps to even out the paint. But there again: Gotta be real careful!



Thanks for the reply.
I am painting the whole motor not just the cowling? 3-4 cans sounds like alot for just the hood but then again I have never done it before so I dont know. I did not sand between coats because everywhere I read it said it was not necessary. The finish feels smooth but not slick like I was hoping for(maybe due to not sanding between coats?).I only primed the skeg because it was the only spot to bear metal. I think I did a good job on consistency with the spraying as far as starting and stopping the spray and following the contours but I am starting to think the passes were too far apart. With a regular spray gun you can get 3"+ coverage but with the can it seems like I was getting 1"+ coverage. I didn't want to make 1 pass per inch because I was afraid of runs and it seemed like I was airbrushing rather then painting. Can I wet sand then give a few more coats over the clear coat?
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
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Re: outboard paint job not lookin too good. phantom black cans?

Sure! You can wet sand over the clear coat and add more layers.
 

JimS123

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Joined
Jul 27, 2007
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8,239
Re: outboard paint job not lookin too good. phantom black cans?

You just did not apply enough paint. The dull spots are thin coverage.

Before you recoat, the paint you already applied will need to be 100% cured. I'd wait a minimum of 7 days before going at it again. Sand lightly before you recoat.

As a rule I don't sand between coats. I don't think you have to unless you got a run or some dust or something got on the surface. If there was an imperfection in the prep, you would see that after the prime coat.

On a typical 25 HP outboard I can get away with 2 - 2 1/2 cans of paint. That's applying 2 coats. I've never needed more than 2.

Painting is an art and takes a lot of practice.
 

robaloroger

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 16, 2010
Messages
123
Re: outboard paint job not lookin too good. phantom black cans?

thanks for the replies guys.
I have a 225. going by what you guys are saying I am thinking 5-6 cans. If I keep giving light coats will the dull spots dissappear or will I have to get a heavier coat. I am thinking as long as I use the right amount of paint it should be fine. Thanks:)
 

5150abf

Vice Admiral
Joined
Aug 12, 2007
Messages
5,808
Re: outboard paint job not lookin too good. phantom black cans?

Yes you can just scuff and repaint, no need to remove the paint.

Use a good strong light and you can see the paint going on, you want to overlap by just a bit, tiger stripes are a pretty common problem.

You might try going the other way with the second coat, do one back and forth and the next up and down if the tip on the can rotates.
 

JimS123

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Joined
Jul 27, 2007
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Re: outboard paint job not lookin too good. phantom black cans?

thanks for the replies guys.
I have a 225. going by what you guys are saying I am thinking 5-6 cans. If I keep giving light coats will the dull spots dissappear or will I have to get a heavier coat. I am thinking as long as I use the right amount of paint it should be fine. Thanks:)

No they won't disappear,but the paint will get thicker and thicker. Experience will tell you how thick you can go without having runs.

The usual procedure is to apply a light coat to cover the area, followed one hour later by a "wet" coat to build a uniform film. For certain colors a third coat may be needed. I personally find that black is one of the easier colors because its not metallic, thus it won't show imperfections as bad. I have an industrial type halogen floodlight mounted on the ceiling above my painting area. Makes it much easier to see what's going on.

I am more into older classic and antique motors. I never use a clear coat because although that makes them look pretty they don't look original. When I've done a Merc in the past I used Rustoleum. The gloss level to me looks like a perfect match to the factory paint. I only clear coat decals to make them fuel proof.
 

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Boss Hawg

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1,433
Re: outboard paint job not lookin too good. phantom black cans?

Those "stripes" are overspray-
VERY hard to control with spray can paint-
With a paint rig you simply "kill" those stripes with thinner -
If you find a way to eliminate them with airasol cans please let me know :(
 

JimS123

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Joined
Jul 27, 2007
Messages
8,239
Re: outboard paint job not lookin too good. phantom black cans?

Those "stripes" are overspray-
VERY hard to control with spray can paint-
With a paint rig you simply "kill" those stripes with thinner -
If you find a way to eliminate them with airasol cans please let me know :(

Yup, that's the gist of it. The larger the area the harder it is to control. You really have to work fast....LOL.

If you use relatively slow drying paint you won't have the problem because the overspray is wetted out in the still wet coat.

I use NYMarine paint exclusively on motors that I need to be done right. Takes a few days extra before it cures though.
 
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