Overheating...or not

[mstng]

Re: Overheating...or not

Thanks Don, and thanks for the resource.

Captmello, Until I read your advice I was gonna start ripping the manifold out...You may have saved a screw up. My memory is fading as I get older and I need all the help I can get. I'll do it all at once.....Thanks

 

[mstng]

Re: Overheating...or not

Hello fellows,

Started taking the manifold out and it was pretty easy up until I got to the 6 bolts I had to remove. No problem until number 7 and 8 an the diagram link. I can't maneuver that end of the manifold around the exhaust pipe ( 22) My manual doesn't show it or even address it. Is there a trick? I can't find a place loosen and move the exhaust pipe out of the way.

http://www.volvopentastore.com/Inta...6613691--**********.273035991--view_id.313910

I do find instructions for removing the exhaust pipe but that entails removing the engine.

Is cutting these studs and replacing feasible? Although not in the diagram the studs are the first and last and the rest are bolts.

 

[mstng]

Re: Overheating...or not

After some searching around here it seems vice grips may do the trick for removal, but not needed or rec for install?

 

[bomar76]

Re: Overheating...or not

Use the right tools for the job:
Remove studs with this:
Craftsman Stud Remover 24.99
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...ssories&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a

Never install studs more than finger tight....
Engine Building 101

 

[mstng]

Re: Overheating...or not

I screwed up Don...What do I do now, before reinstalling the manifold and riser?

Before removing the manifold and after the riser was uninstalled I flushed the manifold and fresh water was flushed through the water jackets into the exhaust down to the engine....

 

[chiefalen]

Re: Overheating...or not

Drain the oil.

All is not lost.

Finish the job.

Water didn't get in the cylinders.

If yes put fresh oil , remove the spark plugs.

Crank over the motor till all water comes out the cylinders. Spray all the cylinders with pb blaster, no pb blaster wd 40.

Dry the plugs if wet with hair dryer.

Start motor, but do it NOW!

Put water to drive.

 

[mstng]

Re: Overheating...or not

http://www.volvopentastore.com/Cyli...6664876--**********.601525858--view_id.313914

Thanks for the hope chief. If I need a rebuild or new engine the wife won't be happy...

Moving the manifold out of the way it looks like it drained from the manifold into the number 4 cylinder (number 1 on diagram) and the third from that end. Can I assume it got in the cylinders. It simply drained right down.

Should I spray through the exhaust ports and through the spark plug openings.

 

[chiefalen]

Re: Overheating...or not

Both. Finish putting it back together after you spray, fresh water ain't gonna hurt.

But you have to get it started as fast as you can.

Today.

Fresh oil, before you start it, filter don't have to be changed.

After you run it change the oil and filter again.

Then you'll be alright.

 

[captmello]

Re: Overheating...or not

Sorry to here about the latest developments.

You can spray that stuff anywhere, the idea is to get the water out asap.

Like cheif said, turn the engine over with the plugs out to get excess water out of the cylinders. You can do this with the manifold off if necessary, then finish putting the moter back together and get it running asap to finish drying out the motor.

Sorry to hear about the issue with the manifold stud. I'm disappointed in Volve for that design. Manifolds are a maintenence item in my opinion and should be removable without pulling the motor or cutting studs. How did you end up resolving that? I wonder if you could just put bolts back it where the studs are now?

 

[mstng]

Re: Overheating...or not

Thanks guys....Lost some sleep last night over this.

I haven't gotten the stud out yet. I may eventually look into the tool described above but for now decided to use vice grips to get it out and if damaged then just replace the stud.

Off to work feeling a little better thanks to you guys...

 

[J JACKSON]

Re: Overheating...or not

you need to remove the spark plugs and spin the motor over with out put starting it (remove the coil wire) NOW to get the water out of the cylinders the put some oil in each cylinder and spin again. then get it back together ASAP and get it running to fully dry it out. if you wait too long it will start rusting inside.

 

[captmello]

Re: Overheating...or not

Thanks guys....Lost some sleep last night over this.

I haven't gotten the stud out yet. I may eventually look into the tool described above but for now decided to use vice grips to get it out and if damaged then just replace the stud.

Perhaps there is someone out there that has bone this job on this motor and will chime in today to help. I wouldn't cut the studs without knowing if thats the correct thing to do or not.

 

[captmello]

Re: Overheating...or not

I can't maneuver that end of the manifold around the exhaust pipe

If you can't get the manifold past the exhaust without removing the stud, will it go back on if you install a new stud before installing the manifold?

Are you working on this today? Post a pic straight down at the stud so we can see.

 

[mstng]

Re: Overheating...or not

If you can't get the manifold past the exhaust without removing the stud, will it go back on if you install a new stud before installing the manifold?

Are you working on this today? Post a pic straight down at the stud so we can see.

Yeah, I'll be able to put the stud into the manifold housing and then maneuver the manifold in place and then install the stud. I'll take a pic when I get a chance. Now waiting on the new manifold. Not the best representation but number 7 is the stud. The number 8 nut is off and the stud goes through the manifold into the head apparently only just a couple of turns as there is plenty of thread showing. I tried a vice grip over a cloth but couldn't budge it. The tool mentioned above seems more appropriate as I'll save the stud and get a better grip on it.

http://www.volvopentastore.com/Inta...6807548--**********.176583920--view_id.313910

I was able to turn the engine over and clean it out the best I could. I used a bunch of that PB blaster. Great stuff btw. I grounded the coil and had to reinstall the belt and alternator in order to get it to turn the engine. I was especially paranoid about fuel and fire as the carb is disconnected. Once I get the manifold and all hooked back up, I'll be able to flush more vigorously. What can I do to guarantee no spark? Thanks for all the thoughts and suggestions Capt....

 

[captmello]

Re: Overheating...or not

I'll be able to put the stud into the manifold housing and then maneuver the manifold in place and then install the stud.

This brings me back to putting a bolt back instead of a stud. I'll bet they use a stud in those places to make assembly easier at the factory. But again I'm speculating. Just think, another 7 years in salt water and your back to fighting that stud!!

I was especially paranoid about fuel and fire as the carb is disconnected.

I don't blame you, however I think if you've disconnected the coil and are keeping fumes from being trapped in the bilge you should be okay.

Did any water come out when you spun the engine around? This may be a good time to change the oil now that you've done that. Remember, the reason for spinning it with the plugs out is only to get excess water out so you won't be hydrolocked when you go to start later, the cylinders are still not dried completely. It sounds like it may be a few days before you can run it so I would keep those cylinders oiled with that spray and turn the engine over, even by hand to spread the lube around.

Still would be nice to hear from "you know who" on this stud issue.

Best of luck to you.

 

[mstng]

Re: Overheating...or not

Hello Capt,

A bolt instead of a stud..that's an idea. I'll gladly fight the stud again in 7 years if I can get this thing running.

Yes, I have gotten water out. Now it seems more of the spray. It has a red tinge going in so it's hard to guess if it's rusty coming out. Back in town this afternoon and decided to spray and flush some more. Still a bit paranoid about creating a spark. My fuel line is disconnected from the fuel pump and plugged with a spark plug. I have the coil wire from the coil with a Phillips head inserted tightly and clamped to ground with a vice grip. Can I assume a spark will be non existent? I run the blower and with all the BP sprayed I still get a faint fuel smell. Paranoid from an incident as a stupid teenager. I have been cranking some but would really like to go to town...

Went looking for a stud removal tool today with no luck. I realized I hadn't sprayed anything on the stud and if it was truly finger tight as it should have been I'll give the vice grips a try again. Focusing more on the water issue atm.

Gonna go crank some more, change oil, crank again. Gonna give that stud another go around now that I have some BP on it.

Thanks for the idea about keeping it lubed. Until I get the manifold, Ill go out daily and spray and turn. Sound right?

I'll get back in a little while.

Thanks again...Wish I could buy you a beer or coke or something...

 

[mstng]

Re: Overheating...or not

Tried the vice grips and had no problem after applying the PB. They were in a bit more than finger tight it seemed. Now I am able to spray from the other direction. Don't know if it matters. I'll replace the studs as one got a bit gnarled. How much cranking should it take before I don't see anything? I am only turning it for 3-5 seconds at a time and seeing a coating of what looks like PB but that's a rust color....

 

[captmello]

Re: Overheating...or not

How much cranking should it take before I don't see anything? I am only turning it for 3-5 seconds at a time and seeing a coating of what looks like PB but that's a rust color....

If nothing is coming out of the spark plug holes except the PB than 3 seconds is enough. I'm just thinking by cranking the engine over, even by hand, you can keep the cylinder walls lubed and the moisture from sitting in one place long enough to start corrosion. I must say I've not encountered this exact senario before, just trying to keep things from rusting inside until you can start the motor and burn out the rest of the moisture.

Glad you got the stud out!!!

 

[mstng]

Re: Overheating...or not

Got milk?

Dumped the oil and took off the oil filter. It was quite milky...Replaced it and emptied a little water from the oil filter and reinstalled. Turned the engine several times with the new oil and PB. Closed off the openings with rags. I should have the parts soon and will continue to cycle daily until then and then replace the oil filter and oil and fire it up and run after installing the manifold and elbow. Then change oil and filter again.

Is there an aftermarket gasket sealant I can get from Napa? Should I put anything on the manifold and elbow threads? I didn't see where a sealant should be used on the carb gasket. Is that correct?

 

[mstng]

Re: Overheating...or not

After searching the forum I see various opinions regarding the use of gasket sealant. My manual states to use it for the manifold IF leakage has occurred, but for the elbow it said to use it. Follow the manual?