Paint Question

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1506cmo18

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Hi, its hard to tell by the picture because of the rain, but my boat over time has become very doll. I don't think that buffing with help and have decided to repaint the boat. I'm not looking to spend top dollar but would like a nice shiny finish. This is where I need your help.

I'm totally confused as to what paint I should use. I was looking at bottomkote paint but a friend told me that the paint is very doll. I would also like to mentioned that I'm looking to paint the boat the same color all over.

If I used Bottomkote with a clear cote , would it be shiny?

What do you paint your fiberglass boat with?
 

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Bondo

Bondo

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Re: Paint Question

Ayuh,... You DON"T want bottomkote, for sure...

It don't look that bad, that buffing,+ polishing should work...

Otherwise, for an Inexpensive paint job, use Rustoleum enamal...
For a 1st class paint job, use a 2-pt. Urethane system... I use Prizum by Martin Seymour...
I get it right at my local Napa store...
 
QC

QC

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Re: Paint Question

Bond-o said:
It don't look that bad, that buffing,+ polishing should work...
Click to expand...
Yeah, save the gelcoat if at all possible. I agree with Bondo, looks very doable to me. Moving to restore for more opinions . . .
 
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1506cmo18

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Re: Paint Question

Like I said, it doesn't look that bad because its raining out...but is very very doll...

- Rustoleum enamal is one option?
and
-2-pt. Urethane system is another option?

And there both available at Napa?
 
S

SBTOM

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Re: Paint Question

I think that what they are getting at is that if it looks shiny when it is raining, then that might indicate that the gel coat is fixable. It could be that the top surface of your gelcoat is just rough and oxidized. You will just need lightly sand through that top layer of bad gelcoat to get to the good stuff. That would be your cheapest, easiest option.

Try taking some 1000-2000 grit sandpaper and lightly sanding a small area. If it is really roughed up then you might need to start with 400-600. Then apply some rubbing compound and see if it doesn't make it more shiny. If this works, then you are way better off trying to save what is there.
 
MTribe08

MTribe08

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Re: Paint Question

1506cmo18 said:
Like I said, it doesn't look that bad because its raining out...but is very very doll...

- Rustoleum enamal is one option?
and
-2-pt. Urethane system is another option?

And there both available at Napa?
Click to expand...


Before you go and start painting your boat..do yourself a favor. Get some 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper and get the paper wet and sand down a 1'x1' area...you could even start with 400 and then go to 600, then to 800. But..just do the 600 for a test. After its sanded down, buff it out with heavy duty rubbing compound, and finally polish it to see how it turns out. You might be pleasantly surprised. Take a look at this boat..Its started out as bad as your's if not worse. If you have, or can get your hands on a high speed buffer like he uses, it will be much easier.
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=374293
 
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1506cmo18

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Messages
114
Re: Paint Question

SBTOM said:
I think that what they are getting at is that if it looks shiny when it is raining, then that might indicate that the gel coat is fixable. It could be that the top surface of your gelcoat is just rough and oxidized. You will just need lightly sand through that top layer of bad gelcoat to get to the good stuff. That would be your cheapest, easiest option.

Try taking some 1000-2000 grit sandpaper and lightly sanding a small area. If it is really roughed up then you might need to start with 400-600. Then apply some rubbing compound and see if it doesn't make it more shiny. If this works, then you are way better off trying to save what is there.
Click to expand...

You don't think it would be easier to clean it up and throw 2 cotes of paint on it?
 
S

SBTOM

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Re: Paint Question

No not really... you are going to have to prep sand anyway, clean, tack cloth, mask, tack cloth, spray, wax, etc. And after all of that, probably won't be as durable as the original finish. Plus, it would cost considerably less to just re-finish it.

sandpaper: 50 sheet pack - 14$
Buffing wheel: 7$
PerfectIt Rubbing compound: 10$
3m Finishing compound: 10$

Total cost: 41$

You would spend at least 3x that amount to paint it right.
 
S

SBTOM

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Re: Paint Question

sorry, you would actually need 2 of the buffing wheels. one for the rubbing compound and one for the finishing compound.
 
1

1506cmo18

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Messages
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Re: Paint Question

SBTOM said:
No not really... you are going to have to prep sand anyway, clean, tack cloth, mask, tack cloth, spray, wax, etc. And after all of that, probably won't be as durable as the original finish. Plus, it would cost considerably less to just re-finish it.

sandpaper: 50 sheet pack - 14$
Buffing wheel: 7$
PerfectIt Rubbing compound: 10$
3m Finishing compound: 10$

Total cost: 41$

You would spend at least 3x that amount to paint it right.
Click to expand...

Alright its something to look into...In the past I haven't had luck with buffing and sanding...that why I leaned more towards, sanding down with a light grit, then cleaning, and painting..
 
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1506cmo18

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Messages
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Re: Paint Question

would a marine fiberglass restorer and wax bring some life back?
 
MTribe08

MTribe08

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Re: Paint Question

1506cmo18 said:
would a marine fiberglass restorer and wax bring some life back?
Click to expand...

You aren't going to get the "finished" look you are after without going through the process. You need to wet sand, compound, polish and wax.
 
1

1506cmo18

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Oct 6, 2009
Messages
114
Re: Paint Question

I have a really bad feeling that buffing and sanding isn't going to give me the look I'd prefer either...also seems like 2x the amount of work compared to painting a fresh layer on it...and I'm not a fan of orange...i'd rather paint a nice cherry red of topline paint...any fans of painting?
 
1

1506cmo18

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 6, 2009
Messages
114
Re: Paint Question

SBTOM said:
No not really... you are going to have to prep sand anyway, clean, tack cloth, mask, tack cloth, spray, wax, etc. And after all of that, probably won't be as durable as the original finish. Plus, it would cost considerably less to just re-finish it.

sandpaper: 50 sheet pack - 14$
Buffing wheel: 7$
PerfectIt Rubbing compound: 10$
3m Finishing compound: 10$

Total cost: 41$

You would spend at least 3x that amount to paint it right.
Click to expand...


I just got some pricing...for 2 quarts of top side paint is around 60$...and seems to be much less time...maybe i'm wrong but

1) sand down the boat with a 600-1000 grit paper...just to ruff it up
2) Wash boat down with an acetone
3) paint thin layers with roller
4) paint over roller lines with foam brush
5)buff and wax
6) enjoy shiny new color
For around 100$ I think I will have a much better desirable finish then if I sand, sand, sand, buff buff buff..

anything else I should ad in my steps??

I understand that if your doing a professional paint job sanding is critical, however this is a free boat that I'm trying to put a little color too so I can fully enjoy it when its in the water and when its sitting on the trailer (not an eye sore)!
 
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