Picked up a 1990 Force 50HP yesterday.

[jerryjerry05]

If you buy the regular ones?? Then use duct tape to seal the edges. The tape needs to be put on before the motor gets wet as it won't stick very good.

 

[cyclops222]

Am I the only one who removes the prop. If running in a 50 gallon barrel ?

 

[jerryjerry05]

If I didn't have the right muff??? I would remove the prop.

 

[metalchewy]

The parts I ordered came in earlier this week.

Got around to taking the carb off. Took a measurement for where the choke rod was set.

When I took it apart, the outside bowl gasket was missing and the float was on upside down. Float pin was tapped in all the way so had to tap it out with a rod.

Took all the plastic apart and.procedded to fill a bucket half full of carb cleaner. Have a gallon of Barryman's under the bench, but it's the new formula and doesn't work nearly as well as the stuff in the can, so, used 4 cans to submerge the carb. Have a couple others to rebuild. Log splitter has a diaphram is going out so will dip that. My old 4bbl on the dart could use a rebuild and will get a few more cans to submerge that when I get to it.

For now the.carb will.sit with the lid on the can and clean for a few hours and will blow it out with the compressor then inspect to see if any varnish is left and reassemble it with the float on right.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The float bowl will show what condition the rest of the carb is in. If?? it's real dirty and corroded?? Then the jets and other parts will be that way too.
Most times the spray cleaners work just fine.

 

[metalchewy]

The float bowl will show what condition the rest of the carb is in. If?? it's real dirty and corroded?? Then the jets and other parts will be that way too.
Most times the spray cleaners work just fine.

Bowl had a later ov varnish in it. Needle was stuck which released on contact with the spray. There were a few spots that didn't clan off when sprayed that the soak cleaned just fine.

The float needed adjustment. Will install it this afternoon.

 

[metalchewy]

Didn't use the new pin. New needle and gaskets used. it's reassembled and float is set parallel to the carb. Ready for install after some chores this morning.

 

[cyclops222]

I can not pick up a 30 hp anymore.

 

[metalchewy]

I di

I can not pick up a 30 hp anymore.

I did pick it up alone once, to adjust it on the motor dolly. Paid for it later though.

 

[metalchewy]

Had our first trip to the lake after 8 months of weekends rebuilding the boat to what we wanted

Motor ran great the first half of the day. Then fouled out, got it running again, ran out of gas and then would barely run, and limped it off the lake.

Rebuilt the carb again, changed jets to match altitude. Replaced coil packs and still having issues. Good spark. Fuel to the carb.

But now while starting it, seems like the fuel pump doesn't stop when the bowl is full. Spits fuel out the side of the carb when trying to start Rechecked float and needle. it is stopping air fr9m flowing thru off the engine. Put it back on and same thing.

At a loss here. Not sure whether a new diaphragm in the pump will help.

Any thoughts.

 

[cwella]

Went and pulled a 1990 Force Outboard 50 model 507X90D, from a 1990 Bayliner boat yesterday for a pretty decent price. Got the steering, throttle, all cables, plus the electrical all the way to the battery with the deal. It hasn't run for three years. But was running when the guy we got it from purchased the project.
View attachment 411320
Checked compression and spark before we started. Both cylinders just over 140lbs compression and sparking on both plug wires.

We plan on putting it on the fishing boat we are building from the hupp up.

Ordered carb gaskets and a new needle. I'm sure the bowl is varnished and want it fresh/clean before we try to fire it up. Will install a telltale while I'm at it.

A new impeller is also on the way as well as new spark plugs. The old plugs look new and we can keep them in the boat box when we finally launch, as spares on the lake for 'just in case'. We will hopefully have it ready to launch in November.

When the parts arrive will be getting started to ensure the engine and drive are sound. Hopefully things will go smoothly.

Can't think of anything I'm missing on getting it ready for install in a few weeks. Fingers crossed...

Sounds like a good find, especially with all the controls and wiring included. After sitting three years, I’d start with fresh fuel, check compression, inspect the wiring, clean the carbs, and verify spark before trying to run it. If it was running when parked, there’s a good chance it just needs some basic revival work.

 

[Nordin]

metalchewy pull the carb again and check inlet needle.
Just a little debris can make the inlet needle not to seal when bowl is full.
Change the fuel pump diaphragm cause it is wear detail and if there is a small hole in it it will end up with fuel going direct into the crank case.
Remember the fuel pump will always pump fuel to the carb even if the bowl is full.
The fuel pump work with the over pressure/under pressure from the crank case as the piston goes up and down.
The inlet needle to the bowl is the part that stop fuel going into the bowl.
The hole at the side of the carb is there to make atmosphere in the carb and as a over flow if the needle not seal properly.

 

[metalchewy]

Sounds like a good find, especially with all the controls and wiring included. After sitting three years, I’d start with fresh fuel, check compression, inspect the wiring, clean the carbs, and verify spark before trying to run it. If it was running when parked, there’s a good chance it just needs some basic revival work.

We thought it was a good deal as well. Wanna switch to a 4 stroke when we can afford it.

New tank and fuel lines. Checked compression when we got it and again after the trip out.

New solenoid, new starter, New plugs. And a second spare pair of plugs for the parts bag. Wiring is good, electrical from front to back checks out. Voltage where it should be.

metalchewy pull the carb again and check inlet needle.
Just a little debris can make the inlet needle not to seal when bowl is full.
Change the fuel pump diaphragm cause it is wear detail and if there is a small hole in it it will end up with fuel going direct into the crank case.
Remember the fuel pump will always pump fuel to the carb even if the bowl is full.
The fuel pump work with the over pressure/under pressure from the crank case as the piston goes up and down.
The inlet needle to the bowl is the part that stop fuel going into the bowl.
The hole at the side of the carb is there to make atmosphere in the carb and as a over flow if the needle not seal properly.

Thank You for the reply. I've never seen a carb do this, when I blow into on the fuel inlet upside down, i can't blow air into it. Right side up I can breath air into it.

When I rebuilt the carb the second time I found a little bit of red plastic from the new fuel tank. After a soak, and blew out every hole and orifice with carb cleaner, i installed a second new needle.

The seat for the needle was clean, but will swab it with a qtip tomorrow on the next attempt. Will also blow out with carb cleaner again before we try to start it.

New jets for this altitude instead if sea level jets went in last weekend as well.

New diaphragm and gaskets arrived this week and taking the fuel pump apart in the morning. Didnt want to take it apart without the new parts in hand to put in. New pump filter screen, and adding an inline fuel filter as well.

Fingers crossed to get it running in the barrel by mid morning.