PlayDoh’s 16 SS resto underway

Watermann

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Way light on the paint there, even where there's not primer showing through you have that orange peel going on. More volume and slow steady over lapping strokes to get enough paint on to lay down and shine.

Most guys love to post pics after their paint goes on and has the wet shine. You have some sanding to do, as did I the first go around with boat painting :lol:

fetch
 

PlayD0h

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Way light on the paint there, even where there's not primer showing through you have that orange peel going on. More volume and slow steady over lapping strokes to get enough paint on to lay down and shine.

Most guys love to post pics after their paint goes on and has the wet shine. You have some sanding to do, as did I the first go around with boat painting :lol:

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Ya, well did you ever consider that maybe it wasn’t a mistake? Maybe I really like oranges and want my boat to resemble one texture wise? Maybe I’m going to name it SS Sunkist? Huh?
lol, sarcasm if it wasn’t obvious.
Maybe I can say it’s a special technique called ‘Shark Skin’ that makes me go faster in the water? Homers Speed Holes.
Thanks for raining on my parade, lol. I have it half sanded now. I don’t think it was due to too light on the paint, and I always have to strive to not put too much on since I can put a hundred mils without a run, somehow. The picture was and is bad, I adjusted the exposure and lighted shadows.
My tip was pretty clogged up, all the tiny holes were blocked and the paint wasn’t atomizing at all really. Just tiny blobs, which had to be on thick enough for all the blobs to connect. If that makes sense.
I went to town cleaning it today and then shot some primer which was atomizing. This rusto marine primer goes on like powder coat so it’s hard to tell if the paint will be perfect. Yet I know it will be better.

Whats worth mentioning is that this Rusto topside paint says to use Mineral Sprits to thin on the can. Yet the data sheet says Xylene, at 10-15%. WOG’s paint how to recommends acetone at much higher percentage. Like 1/4 cup for 2 cups of paint, with 1oz of hardener. I’ve done all three and have been using the 15% xylene with hardener, yet it’s still pretty thick. I realize this is rusto enamel and it’s possible my cheap gun won’t spray it well enough for glass like finishes, but I’m at a loss. I’m considering trying my suction hvlp gun next round. For the topside interior.
 

PlayD0h

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Actually WOG says 1/2 cup reducer per 2 cups paint. That’s 25%.
For 1 qt paint
1/4 cup of Acetone & 1/2 cup of Majic's Reducer. (add more reducer as needed)
In High Temps use Acrylic Enamel High Temp Reducer sold at some Auto Supply stores. (I used Acme Finish 1 from Advance Auto.)
2oz of Hardener (1/4 cup/4Tablespoons)

(NOTE: Only add Hardener to the amount of Paint that you will use in an 8hr period.) DO NOT use after this 8hr period.

I mixed up 2 cups (1/2 qt) at a time using 1oz of hardener, 1/2 cup of reducer.

One Quart should yield two coats of Paint on a 16 ft hull.“

Im not sure if his 1/4 magic reducer 1/4 acetone is different or much different than say full acetone. When I did it full acetone it went on like crazy. I was and am worried it might have been too thick.

The data sheet says 4 mils wet thickness is max, that’s the same as a US dollar bill, which is my mental guide as I don’t have a mil gauge.
 

Watermann

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I used Xylene when I shot the Rusto TS but went to using VM&P Naphtha for the VanSickle paint.

Sorry if my comments bruised your painting ego :lol: My first attempt at painting a boat is what made me hate sanding to this day.
 

PlayD0h

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So I’m dry fitting the gunnels after replacing the 2 long sheet strips that go on the top. I can’t figure this out yet and maybe someone can help.
Theres the top strip of sheet that I’ve replaced but the old piece is in the pictures. I can see that there are holes that go through the top sheet piece and the horizontal sheet channel, which is in the middle of the 3 pieces in the pic.
Now the inner trim piece is T shaped and looks like it goes between the top and side piece. Yet that would make it impossible to rivet the top and side without a matching hole in the inner trim. Which there isn’t a matching hole. So wtf.
why didn’t I take a ton more pictures? I’ve put myself in these spots a billion times, you’d think I’d learn by now. Yet it can’t be that complicated.
 

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Watermann

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My SS gunnels were 2 piece with the flat top and inside piece but I don't understand what you're having the problem with. Is it the trim that goes on the inside?
 

Decker83

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The T piece goes on outside not in between the two pieces. There is a left and a right.
Hope I understood your question.
 

PlayD0h

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The T piece goes on outside not in between the two pieces. There is a left and a right.
Hope I understood your question.

Ok, I think I know what you mean and it looks like that’s the only logical way it can go, yet it looks odd and I don’t remember it having a space there.
Heres some pics. I’m holding the trim piece and the top gunnel sheet is in place. You can see the holes line up and the extra set of holes that match the horizontal piece. It’s wet from paint at the moment.

the outer trim goes on top of the rivet heads that hold the top gunnel sheet to the hull bracket. That outer trim is what the rubber bump strip goes into.

I guess the inner trim has to go on top of the gunnel top sheet, and that’s what you meant by ‘outside’.
 

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PlayD0h

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I masked off the hull and painted the black parts, top and bottom of hull sides. I made sure to put enough on that it ‘melted’ together yet I did get a few small runs. They sagged after I was done, and I’ll try to sand them out and shoot over it.
This black paint is very thick, compared to the white. I might try to add more xylene next go. I put the first coat of white on most of the interior top side pieces. It’s so much easier to spray.
I took a couple pics but kinda close up, and wet black paint at dusk is hard to photograph. I hope it’s good enough for WM, :lol:
thankfully I can repaint the black anytime in the future, so good or bad it’s there to stay for now. I think it looks good, I just wish I avoided the spots it sagged / ran.
 

PlayD0h

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So I was tired of looking at wood and put my vinyl down. Used 3/4 of a can of 3M Super 77 spray adhesive and it went down very easy. I put vinyl down on my deck and it was ten times the mess and effort. This vinyl had that fur / felt backing and it makes a huge difference. Dozer used the 77 on naked lady I think and I was skeptical it would be enough considering the tub of adhesive my deck took and the contact cement for the edges.
This stuff was the perfect width also, and I have enough left to do the casting deck and hull sides at the bow and maybe enough for the wood paneling.
Next is the gunnels and consoles so I can put the seats in. I’m still trying to finalize the process in my mind. I have a milk crate and some small pieces of 2x4 flat to bring it up to 12”. I just need to get it so the center of the milk crate is the center of the base / seat.
Ill need the splashwell in before I can chose where the rear seats will be. If anyone wants to be my hero and give me some measurements of their pedestals I’d be forever grateful. Having a reference even would help. I’m worried I’ll pick a spot and not realize till after something that makes me kick myself every time I get in the boat. I know it’s not rocket science, it’s just the last thing I want to do is put holes in this deck that will end up needing to be moved.
 

PlayD0h

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Forgot the pic. When I bought the vinyl I asked for 22’ and there was 25’ on the roll and the guy gave me the whole thing for 22’ price. So I had the tube which I put a long piece of pipe in and used c clamps to hang it from my I-beam in my garage ceiling. Worked like a charm to roll out the vinyl.
 

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ShoestringMariner

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Looking really really good. I’m going to have to remember that trick about hanging the carpet above the boat.

with the 3M 77, do you have to spray both sides of material or only the wood? If I recall, that’s stuff doesn’t have a really thick build. I’m surprised people are using it for this purpose, but if it works, why not?

also, how are you handling the flooring at the ends of plywood? Are you simply trimming off flush or are you folding it over the sides? I’ve never worked with this stuff before so I don’t know how easy it is to fold and manipulate and I have to do mine this winter. I noticed a lot of new boats have flooring panels that are screwed down after the flooring is adhered to the plywood segments. I’d rather do what you’re doing. I don’t want screwheads all over the place not only for looks but compromising the flooring.
 

bchaney

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Wow that vinyl looks great - nice job. Good idea hanging the roll like that.
 

Decker83

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Here is a pic of mine before I took it all apart. Hope this helps.

Your vinyl looks great.
 

PlayD0h

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Looking really really good. I’m going to have to remember that trick about hanging the carpet above the boat.

with the 3M 77, do you have to spray both sides of material or only the wood? If I recall, that’s stuff doesn’t have a really thick build. I’m surprised people are using it for this purpose, but if it works, why not?

also, how are you handling the flooring at the ends of plywood? Are you simply trimming off flush or are you folding it over the sides? I’ve never worked with this stuff before so I don’t know how easy it is to fold and manipulate and I have to do mine this winter. I noticed a lot of new boats have flooring panels that are screwed down after the flooring is adhered to the plywood segments. I’d rather do what you’re doing. I don’t want screwheads all over the place not only for looks but compromising the flooring.

I started spraying both sides about half way, but that was because of how it was just a bit wider than the floor and started to buckle a bit at the edges. Wear a respirator, I think I lost a few brain cells. I should have just grabbed it after realizing.
I used the thinner of the 2 choices, this is from Home Depot. I glued it up the sides so I literally have a vinyl bathtub, minus the bow section. I might make that small front piece of deck removable, as DozerII did. Yet I really like the idea of sealing off the deck. I might try to make something to seal off the stern opening, but have it so I can access it if needed.
The PO parked the boat under an evergreen tree and it was loaded with pine needles. And sand, dirt, etc. all that clogged up the rib drain channels.
I laid this out in one continuous sheet, as I think that’s what your asking now that I re-read your post. I’ve seen people make the deck in sections that can be unscrewed and like you I don’t like the idea.
I was just at the epoxy store and seen some 3M 90 spray adhesive which was labeled heavy duty or something. I’ve used the 77 before and there is almost no build at all. I made sure to wipe the deck down with acetone, which is what gave me mixed results in the past on other applications, not boat related.
You can pull the vinyl up a bit when it’s still wet, but it’s not that easy. I rolled the vinyl out to cover the deck, then glued the stern part up to the deck cut-out.
Then I rolled it up from the bow to stern and sprayed about a foot of deck then rolled the vinyl forward over it. Smooshed it out, then repeated. After I smoothed out a section, I would roll it back till I could see a few inches of already glued vinyl. Just to make sure I didn’t have an unglued gap.
Depending on what your winters are like, handling the vinyl will not only be difficult but it might crack. I’d throw some plywood and a tarp over the gunnels and put a small heater in the boat. I did it a few times to cure gluvit, 5200 and such. My garage isn’t heated that great but the heater and plywood worked great.
 

PlayD0h

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Here is a pic of mine before I took it all apart. Hope this helps.

Your vinyl looks great.

Very helpful, thank you very much. I’m not sure why but it looked odd and wrong when I put it up like that. I’m guessing the ridge that stands up above the gunnels is to keep water on the gunnels out of the boat.

Im going to see if I can polish that trim, although I’m not going to just pull out the buffer and hit it. I’ll test a spot. I thought about painting them but I’d guess the paint would chip easily and often.
 

Watermann

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Yeah the trim being bare will take some work, it's anodized so using stripper will help. The only problem then is oxidizing. I sanded and painted my inside trim on the SS and yeah it'll get chipped up but the outside trim is bare.

y4m4L9_XpkSdOlOhIpKHRpGE9KYKJa43BWLfSq8KwNuNIOI0CMo6or8E1lYsvoN3uQlp7tonhyRudO6FDaOsKDrlU-LQkCMQetvrYwUAh31GGlV5-rrBUnX87VyIkx1yZ0bBn5HFyjnSlCq7FFDsjL--9nY4Yz75HRWtMcnwz1rg6eoqqONUmtMkQb2ljzh1M9QKgm-idjqkcMgk-YFkmdQIQ
 

PlayD0h

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Yeah the trim being bare will take some work, it's anodized so using stripper will help. The only problem then is oxidizing. I sanded and painted my inside trim on the SS and yeah it'll get chipped up but the outside trim is bare.
nice looking boat there WM. If I had a spare 15 mins in my life lately, I’d love to check out more of your projects.

Whats on top of your gunnel? It looks to have texture.

I got all setup to shoot the final coat of black and opened up the can, only to find the paint as thick as mud. I called Rusto and found out it’s 4.5 years old and the shelf life is 3 years.
So had to drive into the city just to swap it out with a 2.5 year old can, but at least it wasn’t mud. I learned how to tell the date codes and learned that my white paint is 1 year old and the blacks were 1-2.

I just sprayed it and while its all even and done, there’s still orange peel. I sanded the last coat down with 150 & 220 grit to get it almost totally flat. Yet my only guess is either the paint is just too thick (Heavy) to go on like glass, or it’s magnifying the primers orange peel that I never noticed, possibly.
It seems to get better after it dries, and I’ll do a bit of wet sanding, and maybe buffing. I took my trailer apart and took the main frame in and sandblasted the underside completely and got rid of the surface rust.
I tried ‘Krud Killer’ or something from HD that’s a rust remover, but like everything chemically available to retail it’s near useless. Paintstrippers especially.
Im going to prime the trailer once I can gather the energy.
Tomorrow I’ll shoot the second coat of paint on the gunnels and will finally be able to start putting things together. That and start on the white section of the hull so maybe only 2-3 more days painting. I was thinking of how you mentioned how you, and others will start painting in the morning and be finished by night. I feel like I’ve shot paint for a dozen days in total.
 

ShoestringMariner

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yeah the trim being bare will take some work, it's anodized so using stripper will help. The only problem then is oxidizing. I sanded and painted my inside trim on the ss and yeah it'll get chipped up but the outside trim is bare.

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sick sick sick with envy
 

PlayD0h

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I got some more things done tonight. I cut out most of the wood for the paneling. I just used some 1/4” spruce ply sheathing since I’m not sure if I’ll be changing things later. And the originals are 1/4”, and I don’t see the need for thicker.
I cut out the bow cap aluminum out of 1/8” sheet. I’ll likely have to shave the edges where it sits on the hull side brackets so it sits level with everything. I should have done that sooner so it would be ready at the same time as the gunnels.
I think I’ll put one more coat of black on. I might thin that coat as I did on the bottom half, following WOG’s ratios. That mix went on much easier. I’ll sleep on it though as I’m now more concerned about compromising the durability and stray from Rustos instructions.
 
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