Potential for complete loss?

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Here are some pictures of her, like i promised:

Here is a picture of the stringers:


Here is a picture of the hole in the hull, with a close up:



Here you can see some damage on a stringer:


Another:

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?




Where to begin???

It needs a transom. I would bet on that. I hope the stringers are solid enough I can leave them. But I am afraid the cap will have to come off. To be honest, part of the allure of this boat was it was cheap. If it needs a new transom, fiberglass work, stringers, all that jazz, would anyone be able to give me a rough estimate of cost? I cannot have this be a massive money pit. A few hundred, sure, a grand I COULD do that, but 2k I might have to pass. Any pointers would greatly appreciated. I am not scared of the work. I worked with fiberglass when I was in high school. My math teacher hired me to help him build a huge sailboat. So I know what the labor is like. I am concerned about the cash. If I have to take the cap off, how difficult is it to remove the trim with damaging it? Thanks for all the help this far! I know I would not have gotten this far without the knowledge gained through this site!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Ok Kool. You are a LUCKY MAN!!! Those stringers could be thick walled engineered stringers and if so You won't have to replace them. Take a drill and drill into the top of one and see how thick it is. If its 1/4" thick or more. VOILA' You're GOLDEN. If they're foam filled and the foam is water logged you might want to cut the tops off, remove and replace the foam and the glass the tops back on but that will be an easy and inexpensive process. The Hole repair is a 1 hour, eazy smeazy job. No sweat!!! That's a well constructed Boat!!!! Core sample the transom down low and see if it's wet. If not you're gunna be back on the water real soon!!! How much foam was in between the stringers??

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

There was two pieces that measured 6"x6"x36" roughly. That was all. I have a feeling the transom is shot. The washers that hold the outboard on have pulled in probably close to .125-.1875. And when i was changing the lower unit oil, when i would move the OB up and down there was some flex. How much is acceptable. I don't want the most expensive part of the boat to fall off!

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Pretty much any flex is too much @ the transom

The rubrail around the perimeter of the boat that keeps the upper (cap) & lower (hull) together can be easy to remove & save or difficult, it just depends on what condition it's in. Same for the rubber rubrail insert that goes in the aluminum track.

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

I am not proud to admit this, but it needs to be documented. The piece of decking that was in the bow had glass securing it to the hull. I assume it was original and has never been replaced. I took a grinder with a cut off wheel and traced the outside. Cut the board free, all is good. Today when i went home for lunch to take pictures, i noticed this:


Underneath the front stow-a-way there was hardly any room for me and my grinder. I went a little deep and added another source of water intrusion......:facepalm:

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Pretty much any flex is too much @ the transom

The rubrail around the perimeter of the boat that keeps the upper (cap) & lower (hull) together can be easy to remove & save or difficult, it just depends on what condition it's in. Same for the rubber rubrail insert that goes in the aluminum track.

Then the transom is toast. there was flex. I would say you in the up position you could move the outboard so the prop would travel 3-4 inches.

And does the rubber rubrail need to come off first? Pardon the ignorance. This is my first go around on a boat restoration.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Underneath the front stow-a-way there was hardly any room for me and my grinder. I went a little deep and added another source of water intrusion......:facepalm:

Whelp now it's official ^^^ you ARE an iboats Backyard Boat Builder. :watermelon: A little extra daylight can & will be the least of your worries on this rebuild.

It happens, often, and to everyone.

You should see some of the more work for yourself gashes posted in some of the threads. Yours is hardly a hang nail compared to many. Think 3-4ft long rip thru's along the bottom of the hull w/ a circular saw Or a real nice & clean slice across the top of your aluminum gas tank, that still has fuel in it :faint2:

 

[Scott Danforth]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Then the transom is toast. there was flex. I would say you in the up position you could move the outboard so the prop would travel 3-4 inches.

And does the rubber rubrail need to come off first? Pardon the ignorance. This is my first go around on a boat restoration.

yes, rubber rub rail comes off. sometimes the rubber is joined at the bow, sometimes at the stern.

under the rubber are the screws holding the rail track on, as well as the cap to the hull.

there may or may not be some sort of sealer material

then the cap and hull joint may or may not have screws/fasteners/rivets/glue/sealer holding them together.


sorry to hear about the transom. if the transom is toast, so are the stringers.

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Okay. This is what i wanted to know. I don't want to risk a life by not knowing. Lets talk some ball park figures.

What would the cost be for fiberglass, resin, hardner, foam, and incidentals? Ball park here would be great!

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Then the transom is toast. there was flex. I would say you in the up position you could move the outboard so the prop would travel 3-4 inches.

Probably so then....

And does the rubber rubrail need to come off first? Pardon the ignorance. This is my first go around on a boat restoration.

1st you expose an end of the rubber rubrail insert. At the motor end, there is probably a metal cap w/ a single screw holding it on. If the metal cap wraps around a corner, there may be a screw on each side. Once the end cap is out of the way, you can slip a phillips screw driver behind the rubber/vinyl and gently work the insert out of the aluminum track at that point, and gently pull it away from the channel. Once removed the insert will shrink, so at reinstall, you may need to leave it in the sun for quite a while so it gets soft & pliable. Then re-install, possibly stretch it to be long enough, and screw into place.

KEEP ALL THE rubrail screws & caps, no matter their condition. The caps can be tough to replace. The screws you can take w/ you to a hardware store to try & match if you go back w/ new. Except the end cap screws, all the rest of the rubrail channel screws are probably generic. You might want nice new stainless screws for the end caps. Some find their boat held together by regular old black oxide drywall screws. Mine was.

Once the channel is also removed from the boat, keep it tucked away somewhere safe too. You don't want the insert's track damaged, that'll only make it harder at reinstall.

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Sounds like a plan. Tonight my roommate and I are going to remove the outboard and hopefully start working on getting the cap off. Since I am going deep in this project, i would like your ideas on improving the functionality of the boat. What does a new boat have, that this one does not, that would be best built in at this point. Does that make sense?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Here's an engine stand how to:
Building your own outboard motor stand

 

[DerekG]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

As far as a ballpark figure for materials, i would say $500-$1000. I am currently rebuilding a 15' starcraft tri hull that i stripped to just a shell, repaired hull (paint from the link in Woodonglass's signature), new stringers floor, transom and a little bit of upholstery. Even with a few tool purchased i should come in right around my $2000 dollar budget. The biggest cost will be the resin for sealing the plywood for the transom and floor.

 

[DerekG]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

I had the same damage on mine but a much larger hole and delamination through out the area. Yours looks like a rather simple and isolated repair.

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Is there any potential issues with seeing an out board side ways temporarily?

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Horizontal would be more descriptive than sideways.

 

[GWPSR]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Horizontal would be more descriptive than sideways.

Not if it's a two-stroke. There's no traditional crankcase to worry about. It'd be best to give it a half hour after returning it to vertical before starting it, but you'd spend that long on tightening bolts and connecting wiring and fuel lines anyway.

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Oh boy. What a night. Pulled the out board, removed the bump rail, split the cap and hull, and vacuumed out my transom. Not a typing error. It was that bad. I will post pictures in the am.

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

You are making progress. A V4 outboard sits very nicely on it's back in the horizontal position...... just be careful not to have it roll and scratch up the cover.

Once you dry out the transom area you can laminate and install the new one. It goes very fast with two people who work together. It's actually faster with fiberglass and regular resin then it is with epoxy resin. Browse through the paint and restoration section at iboats here Boat Paint, Repair & Maintenance - Boat Carpet, Fiberglass Repair, Antifouling

From your first post I imagine it was a dramatic ride the boat has taken with the trailer.......now you will save it's life for another 30 years!