Potential for complete loss?

[jigngrub]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

and vacuumed out my transom. Not a typing error. It was that bad. I will post pictures in the am.

That's not the first time we've heard that task description.:lol:

From now on whenever you see an older fiberglass boat sitting on a trailer somewhere or even out on the water you'll think "Man, what a rotten pos that is".

 

[GT1000000]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

That's not the first time we've heard that task description.:lol:

From now on whenever you see an older fiberglass boat sitting on a trailer somewhere or even out on the water you'll think "Man, what a rotten P.O.

that is".

Ain't that the truth...sorry, jig...had to add some emphasis...

BTW, welcome to our little corner of insanity, P-P
Just wanted to ask permission to come aboard...
Looks like a nice project underway...
Have fun and good luck!
GT1M

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

On the water lets hope its not thrashed, but yep, forlorn abandoned along side streets & in backyards absolutely more likely to be rotten to the core. W or w/out trees growing in it

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Got the outboard off







And the cap split

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

The joint between the hull and the cap.







How does one fix that?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

The 'torn' lip?

It won't be a problem, may just take some patience. Be careful when working around it, it's fragile... And probably sharp

 

[mercurymang]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

From now on whenever you see an older fiberglass boat sitting on a trailer somewhere or even out on the water you'll think "Man, what a rotten pos that is".

I do that all the time now.

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Here is what I plan on doing , any advice or concerns, please let me know:

- Get the hull out from under the cap
- Finish removing the transom
- Remove the top of the stringers
- Remove all waterlogged foam
- Sand and grind the hull clean
- Build transom
- Fill stringers with foam
- Cover stringers with glass
- fix 2 holes

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

You are a LUCKY MAN!!! Those stringers could be thick walled engineered stringers and if so You won't have to replace them. Take a drill and drill into the top of one and see how thick it is. If its 1/4" thick or more.

Have you drilled the stringers to confirm they are wood-free or foam filled....

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

I have not drilled holes yet. But i have a sneaking suspicion that they are filled with water-logged foam. It almost appears as is water is seeping out of the stringers?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

If they are really waterlogged, wood stringers would leak water too

They may be partially water filled, otherwise empty stringers..........

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Where would i drill the holes?

 

[shaw520]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Where would i drill the holes?

You going to want to drill 1/4" holes arox 1' deep at about 3" up from hull near the stern.... light colored dry shavings are good,... dark damp/wet shavings are bad. Good luck.

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

I will do that hopefully tonight.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

I'll be interested to see if you find foam or wood inside those stringers. They look just like the foam&fiberglass stringers and bulkheads on my Larson.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

You going to want to drill 1/4" holes arox 1' deep at about 3" up from hull near the stern.... light colored dry shavings are good,... dark damp/wet shavings are bad. Good luck.

Inspection holes in the suspected wood-free stringers, NOT the transom. If you need to core sample the transom, then yep ^^^ an inch, 1.25" deep, near any thru hull fittings & screw/bolt holes.

For the stringers, I'd suggest a slightly larger hole then what's used for core sampling. And under the assumption that they might be wood-free, I'd drill the hole right in the center of the vertical face, if they are foam filled, it'll be evident, and if they aren't it'll be an easy fix on the flat. The repair won't need to be dished out so the new glass builds to be level w/ the surrounding areas. It can just be ground a little for good adhesion of a patch panel.

If you have a 3/8" or 1/2" hole saw & an air drill, I'd use that. A paddle bit won't last long if you start drilling into fiberglass.

If foam filled, carefully cut out the center section of the top, leaving a 1" lip, That should give you enough access to get the foam out & back in, and leave enough material to keep the stringers straight. Plus keep the stringer elevation intact until you start put back.

If water filled, drill holes in both sides of each stringer, down as low to to the hull & as far back as you can. Lift the bow as high as you can & let the water drain out.....

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Questions I would love to have answered:

You don't reuse the foam do you?

What weight fiberglass would this job require? Roving? Mat? CSM?

How many yards would be needed to complete the transom, stringers, and holes?

A few gallons of resin?

And for all the seasoned fiberglass layers out there, i know these questions have been asked a lot, so thanks for bearing with me.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Until you get the stringer question answered, foam filled, empty, or wooden, the guess-timate for materials won't be accurate.

If you get lucky & have nothing to do but drain out some water, you might get lucky & use just a couple 5gal pails of resin & a few (5+/-)yards of each CSM & 1708, in the 50" rolls.

Using WOG's graphic & layup schedule, you can measure your deck & transom (Length & width) and estimate the amount of glass for them based on the layers shown in the graphic. Then measure the linear feet of tabbing you'll need (and the width of the strips) and get an estimate for the glass tabbing around the edge of the deck & transom.

CSM (chopped strand mat, 1.5oz) requires 4oz of resin per SqFt. So a 128oz gal will wet out about 32 SqFt of CSM (1 layer) so about a 4ft X 8ft area. Or a 4X4 area twice.

For 1708, 1 gallon of resin wets about 4Sq YARDS (NOT FEET). For 2 layers of 1708, covering about a 6ftX12ft area, you'll use a gallon of resin.

Here's a link to an free e-brochure that goes over estimating glass & resin needs

As a novice glasser, you'll likely mix too much resin to use before it starts to setup, and use more resin then you need to wet out the glass. I'd estimate at least 15% over what you get via measuring. 20% would be even better, IMO.

A 5gal pail of resin will be cheaper per gallon, usually much cheaper.

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

The stringers contain no wood. Just nasty foam.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

The stringers contain no wood. Just nasty foam.

ACtually, that's exactly what I expected. I recommend using a circular saw set to 3/8" deep and cut the top 1 1/2" Off the stringers. Use a sawzall on the ends Save the caps cuz you'll be glassin em back on later. dig out the old nasty foam and then use the Blue or pink slab foam form Lowe's to fill the stingers with and then glass the caps back on. You can have that done in a day!!! I think all boats should be made like this!!!! You just saved yourself a LOT of time, effort and money!!!