Potential for complete loss?

[Woodonglass]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

From now on whenever you see an older fiberglass boat sitting on a trailer somewhere or even out on the water you'll think "Man, what a rotten pos that is".

Yeah, just like when I see an Old Dented Corroded Aluminum POS, I think What a Waste!!! Just think of How Many BEER Cans they could have Made out of that!!!!:lol:

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

On the water lets hope its not thrashed

Unfortunately I do see them on the water around here, and on the road being pulled to the water. And when you try to explain to these people that their boat is rotten and unsafe they get all offended and tell you there's nothing wrong with their boat and they'll tell you it's a very heavy old boat and they don't make them like that anymore.:facepalm:

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Made a little progress

Made a little progress

Here is some of my progress of late:

Made an Outboard stand following the basic pattern of the one linked on page 2. I had some half cans of spray paint that froze this winter, so i burned them up to form a moisture barrier. Since the pictures, i have added two more angled supports. The mounts were too wide to fit on the stand, so i flipped it around to mount on the flat side. Here is how it turned out:





Built a stand to support the cap:





And the hull on the trailer:

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Made a little progress

Re: Made a little progress





What is this piece on the bottom. It rotates?


And a cutting board i made out of some scraps (18 x 24ish)




How do i make the pictures show up big?

 

[laxray]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

If you use photobucket they will be big.

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

i am using PB

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

BE VERY CAREFUL w/ this stand.

If you notice the longer end of a base plate 2X (long ones you painted black) and the diagonals are designed for the motor to sit on the stand from the other side and resist tipping forward or backwards while you're working on it or running it in a bucket/on muffs.

Don't want it to tip over.... Won't be able to run it in a bucket, but might on muffs, as the skeg will probably hit the shorter black 2X in the front.

This is 2 things, for sure it's a trim tab. Based on how you generally load & use the boat, you may or may not experience some prop steer. It's the effect of a spinning propeller against the water, that sort of torque steers the boat to starboard. You can adjust that tab to conteract that effect. It should be ABLE to be rotated, but when you aren't adjusting it, it should be firmly held in place where you've set it.

It may also be a sacrificial zinc anode to prevent galvanic corrosion if you leave the boat in the water for extended periods of time, esp saltwater. I think you can get them as just a tab, or as a sacrificial tab.
outboard trim tab


To post pix IN your thread rather then as attachments, copy the IMG code that should be listed w/ each photo, it looks something like this:
IMG]http://i1246.photobucket.com/albums/gg618/null2_zps811c3d9e.jpg[/IMG

It may copy the IMG code just clicking it, or you may need to highlight & copy it. Then while you are typing a post, drop that IMG code in wherever you want it to appear IN your post:

You may need to look thru your PB settings and select auto size as well.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

That IS your trim tab and You should take note of its setting before you remove it to ensure you can put it back to it's original setting.

Don't forget to "Pin" yourself on the iBoats Members Map...https://www.zeemaps.com/map?group=935424

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

BE VERY CAREFUL w/ this stand.

If you notice the longer end of a base plate 2X (long ones you painted black) and the diagonals are designed for the motor to sit on the stand from the other side and resist tipping forward or backwards while you're working on it or running it in a bucket/on muffs.
.

I added two more diagonal braces opposing the red boards. The material is 2.25" x 4.5" laminated material. It is ridiculously strong. Thanks for the warning though.. I built it on the feet, so i can slide my ATV jack underneath and cart it around the garage. When i need to move it a long distance or even to the otherside of the garage, i use a skid loader

I will work with the photobucket settings and try to get them embedded.

Any comments on what i have messed up on? Or things i should have done differently? I have noticed that i get easily overwhelmed with the amount of work at hand. But if i STOP stressing out about everything that needs to get done, and do it step by step, it will go good!

Thanks again for all the information and insight from this board.

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

And as i mentioned before, the concept of the engine stand is similar, but i increased the dimensions in every direction. I don't think it is going anywhere.

Is there a way to manually adjust the trim of the outboard with out connecting it to the main wiring harness?

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Once i have the boat finished and have it in the water, what would a price-tag be on a boat of this magnitude?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

About $500 less than what you have invested!!!! Oh, and I'm NOT joking!!!! Boats are not like Cars...They don't increase in value with age. It's only worth what someone's willing to pay for it. You'll be lucking to recoup your investment. We rebuild these boats for our own personal satisfaction and use. NOT to try and make money. It's just NOT gunna happen. Maybe if you find the right boat and can invest just a bit of time and money and flip it quick but a full gut restore on a 1978 model boat that's gunna cost $2K and 150 hours of your time...Nope you're never gunna get your money and time back unless you get it back in Pleasure and enjoyment.

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

I'm aware that i am not going to come out ahead on this. But given that the set-up was freee, am i going to have 2k into a boat that is worth 2k? Or will i have 2k in a boat that is worth 4k? Just kinda wondering. Thanks

 

[73Chrysler105]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

I'm aware that i am not going to come out ahead on this. But given that the set-up was freee, am i going to have 2k into a boat that is worth 2k? Or will i have 2k in a boat that is worth 4k? Just kinda wondering. Thanks

You will have 2k in a boat that is worth 1.5k, but a better boat than you can buy new for 15k.

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

You will have 2k in a boat that is worth 1.5k, but a better boat than you can buy new for 15k.

I like that answer!

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

I just spilt a solid two sips of blue moon....... Sad day.

 

[shaw520]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

You will have 2k in a boat that is worth 1.5k, but a better boat than you can buy new for 15k.

...that ^^^ sums it up!

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Once i have the boat finished and have it in the water, what would a price-tag be on a boat of this magnitude?

I'm aware that i am not going to come out ahead on this. But given that the set-up was freee, am i going to have 2k into a boat that is worth 2k? Or will i have 2k in a boat that is worth 4k? Just kinda wondering. Thanks

I personally feel that a well documented restored is worth more and will sell for more than an undocumented one. A buyer will be able to see the quality of work and materials you have put in the boat not to mention the time and money and will be willing to pay more for what is covered up and can't be seen later... and if someone doesn't want to pay your price you don't have to sell the boat anyway.

The statement about your boat being better than one you can buy for 15K is entirely true, we have all seen the shoddy workmanship below deck from the factory that is covered up and can't be seen when the boat is finished.

Keep taking lots of pics and do quality work and your boat will sell quicker and for more money if you should ever decide to part with it.

 

[Pink-Panthered]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Okay. Thanks for the input. I am pretty ignorant with everything boats.

So here is my game plan:

-Sand/grind/cut/chip away all remaining wood and fiberglass that does not to be there, or is getting replaced.
-Cut the stringer caps off and remove foam
-Get the transom cut and glued while the stringers dry
-Fill the stringers with foam and fit the caps back on
-Glass her up and repair the two holes
-Start the decking


How deep is the hole that I dug myself into by not taking ANY measurements before splitting the cap. I never even thought of that.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Potential for complete loss?

Measurements are important but.. I'd recommend measuring the cap now and comparing those with the top of the hull now. If it has flexed, use some nylon straps to pull her back into shape and keep her there for the duration of the build. This should do the trick.