Poured-in foam from a newer Starcraft - can it be removed?

[biederboat]

I've been fighting a loosing battle on keeping a floor on a 1996 Starcraft Superfisherman fastened down. I know part of the problem is the "longitudinals" are pretty beat up (cracks that I think go all the way down). The previous owner really ran this boat hard. I've done two resto's on older Starcrafts so I know what I'm up against except for one thing: Can the poured-in foam be removed and replaced or is is more of a "cut it out" and maybe have re-poured.

Thanks,
BB

 

[oops!]

Re: Poured-in foam from a newer Starcraft - can it be removed?

hi...

its really hard to get the stuff out in one piece...

it will break....it can be re used if it is not wet.....

i re use it by placing it in the area and pouring new foam around it.

im still a little confused why the deck wont stay down.

can you get pics?

 

[biederboat]

Re: Poured-in foam from a newer Starcraft - can it be removed?

Thanks. There's multiple problems as to why it won't stay down. The floor was originally laid down in lengthwise strips (3 sections of 2' width). I suspect it was done to get better material utilization and to be able to service the fuel tank. It should have been laid down in cross-wise strips in full 4' width. Also, the outboard most "supports" are virtually non-existent. If I remember right, the outboard fasteners were screwed into wood that was held in place by cast foam. I did something similar but it didn't hold any better. Also, as previously mentioned, the two longitudinals have cracks all the way from the top to the bottom in I think several sections.

I don't have any photos (still using the boat with it's "floopy" floor) but, rest assured, if I go through all the trouble of fixing this, I'll pull all the foam necessary to either replace the longitudinals or at least put in splice plates where necessary and also build suitable supports for the outboard sections of the floor. I may have to live with the floor laid in lengthwise strips as I have expensive Spaceage Synthetics" flooring and not sure i want to repurchase that if I'm sure the other repairs/mods will correct the problem.

I'm curious about the "wet" comment; I know some foams absorb water but this foam doesn't appear to absorb any at all. I had water in the seat pockets and it stayed there until it evaporated.

Thanks,
BB

BB

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: Poured-in foam from a newer Starcraft - can it be removed?

As long as the foam is dry and you can get some out in bigger chunks do like oops said. Re-foam around the chunks.

When you say longitudinals, are you referring to the stringers running fore and aft? If so, they can be repaired. If you mean the side to side ribs, they can be repaired also, but a heck of a lot harder.

I'm curious why the floor won't stay down also. Are the rivets giving up the ghost?

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: Poured-in foam from a newer Starcraft - can it be removed?

We were posting at the same time. The flooring running bow to stern in 2' strips might be why the stringers are cracked. Running long ways could be making the boat flex excessively. Did the PO put the "plastic" floor in or do you know if it's factory?

EDIT - the wet foam comments. If the foam is wet, new foam may not stick or adhere to the older wet stuff. Even though the old foam may not absorb water, if it's got cracks/voids water can still hide in it.

 

[biederboat]

Re: Poured-in foam from a newer Starcraft - can it be removed?

I put the new floor in and just copied the pattern of the old floor (which was original and I regret now). It's not a plastic floor, it's two layers of fiberglass with a foam in-between. Great stuff, super strong and light but needs a more stable surface to lay down on then plywood as it won't take much stress on the faster.

My previous two Starcrafts (older) had the side-side "ribs" but this one doesn't. I did find this photo of what it looked like when the original floor was pulled.

BB

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: Poured-in foam from a newer Starcraft - can it be removed?

OK, BB. I'm used to the old SCs. You have a new one. I guess the cast in outboard wood didn't stick to the foam and eventually allowed the floor to start floating instead of staying down. Is there any way of putting an AL angle on the inside of the hull to better secure the outer edges of the floor? I'm kinda thinking out loud here.

 

[biederboat]

Re: Poured-in foam from a newer Starcraft - can it be removed?

I'm used to the old SCs.

Yeah, you're not the only one! I think they went away from the laterals as they could crack (due to flexing) the outermost row of rivets (my two previous SC's had that disease) but they sure made a good support for the floor boards. If I do this right, I'll fabricate a special channel or angle for the outside flooring support, repair or replace the stringers and, if I can't afford new boards to run cross-wise, I'll run something directly under the floor on top of the stringers and laterals to tie it together better. But that's if I have the energy. I'm also thinking of just selling the hull to someone as a project and taking all the good stuff and putting it into a welded aluminum hull. This boat has some other issues that might make it a good project for someone younger with more energy. Overall, I really like this boat but out here on the west coast they can really take a pounding in the ocean.

Back to the foam. If I try to take this stuff out, does it literally stick to whatever it was poured against or is it more of a matter of just "wiggling" it out and having it crack or maybe having to cut it to get it out?

BB

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Poured-in foam from a newer Starcraft - can it be removed?

You can beef up your stringers (latterals) by riveting or bolting aluminum angle to them, an 1 1/2" angle on both sides will work wonders on your stringers. Make them continous from end to end of each stringer.

The 2' spacing on your stringers may also be causing problems with keeping your composite deck in place. You may want to consider installing latter "nailer" pieces of 1 1/2" and on 16" centers in between your stringers so you have something to fasten to from side to side as well as front to back.

Frame your deck like efdog did in this fix.
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=535347&highlight=efdog

I'd use wide flange blind rivets on 8" centers to fasten the decking down and you shouldn't have any more problems.