powerhead removal question #1

[floatingwoody2006]

I realize someone who works on these things without a manual is a fool..And my next question will leave you without doubt that i just may be.. But here goes anyways..I only have spark to 1 plug on my 1954 evinrude fleetwin. So..I think the powerhead needs to come off. 1'st i will check wires, they have been nicked up a bit, and file points and re-check. I can't find a manual that goes back earlier that a 56, so i will ask here. I never used a harmonic balancer puller before..Can someone instruct me quickly the process please?.. Here is a picture of what i am staring at..

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e224/drkilldrmz/HPIM0005.jpg

I am mechanicaly adept at some things, but ive never touched this particular project before. If it sounds like im a basket case, please feel free to laugh freely. Thanks in advance..

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: powerhead removal question #1

You need to remove the flywheel, more than likely, the coil's are propably aged cracked, and shold be replaced.. Replace the point's, and condenser's while yourat it.

 

[iwombat]

Re: powerhead removal question #1

Well, first of all, if spark is your problem removing the powerhead isn't going to factor into fixing it. You'll need to remove the flywheel and that's about it.

(You can say "Phew!" now)

As for using the harmonic balancer remover (HBR). . .

You'll probably need to get yourself three 1/4-20 hardened bolts 3" or so in length and some washers. Most HBR kits don't come with 1/4".

First, remove the retaining nut and washer that keeps the flywheel in place on the crankshaft.

Then, you'll pass the bolts w/ washers through the three slotted cuts in the HBR and thread them into the three threaded holes in the top of the flywheel. The washers may or may not be important on your HBR. The heads on 1/4" fasteners will pass right through the slots on mine w/o washers. Put at least 1" of thread into those holes so they don't strip out.

Then, you'll take the big jack-screw that came with the HBR and thread it through the middle. This will eventually come to rest on the center of the crankshaft (the shaft you took the big nut and washer off of). As you tighten this screw the whole HBR assembly will raise up off the flywheel and rest snugly against the underside of the 1/4" fasteners.

Holding on to the flywheel with either your hands (tough) or a strap wrench (easy), tighten the jack-screw with a wrench nice and slow while holding the flywheel in place. Keep tightening. You'll eventually hear a "pop" after which you can remove the whole flywheel assembly by just lifting it all up.

The crankshaft is keyed on one side to prevent the flywheel from sliding around. Remove the key with a slotted screwdriver and place it aside so it won't get accidentally come loose and get lost anywhere.

 

[F_R]

Re: powerhead removal question #1

Remove those 3 bolts in the flywheel/starter ratchet, and the metal disc under it. Then you will be able to look through an access hole in the flywheel. Chances are 99.9% you will see cracked coils. If so, off with the flywheel to replace them.

Re-saying it, get some hardened steel bolts (they are called grade-8) for your puller. Cheap screws will break. 1" is a mite deep to screw them in, they will hit the coils. The "real" puller screws go in 1/2" which is enough. But don't go any less. The starter ratchet makes ideal "washers" to go under the puller bolt heads.

When you install the new coils, move them forward/back so that the ends of the laminations are flush with the machined aluminum bosses below them to set the air gap. Points are set .020" at widest opening. Flywheel and shaft tapers must be clean and dry before re-installing the flywheel and torque the nut to 40-45 ft/lbs. Or regret it.

 

[F_R]

Re: powerhead removal question #1

Dang emoticons. That is Grade 8 The hardware or auto parts store will know what you are talking about.

 

[BoatBuoy]

Re: powerhead removal question #1

In addition to what iwombat said, be SURE to use Grade 8 bolts (not normally included w/HBR). (EDIT: Oops, F_R beat me to it) Here's a photo of the setup, that I'm stealing from Paul Moir's extensive library of photos. I hope he doesn't mind.

 

[floatingwoody2006]

Re: powerhead removal question #1

Awesome and very good instructions here..Got it.. Take out the 3 bolts on top with rachet, thread # 8 hardened bolts to at least 1/2 inch, screw in middle "large screw" holding flywheel in place until pop. Resist temptation to open beer until after job is done..(the hardest part) Thanks guys.. Im sure to have a # 2 question if i can't find that manual.

 

[iwombat]

Re: powerhead removal question #1

Now, now.

I never - repeat NEVER - said you had to wait to open the beer.

 

[floatingwoody2006]

Re: powerhead removal question #1

sorry.. Forgot the "PHEW"

 

[floatingwoody2006]

Re: powerhead removal question #1

This could be trouble.. I have tried to remove the large nut from the center shaft to proceed with removal, but it seems that the nut and shaft are spinning together instead of the nut just coming off.. Is there a trick im missing?

 

[F_R]

Re: powerhead removal question #1

Here's my guess: Somebody has already been in there and saw the bad coils and slapped the flywheel back on and said phooey on it. They left the key out.

OR, they hammered on the nut to get the flywheel off instead of using a puller, and buggered up the threads on the crankshaft and the nut is just jammed back on the best they could. If they managed to get it started, it sheared the key because they couldn't torque the nut to specs.

My money is on the later scenario.

 

[floatingwoody2006]

Re: powerhead removal question #1

Coils and everything else under there looks new. like recently replaced..The threads above the nut don't look destroyed..Just that both are spinning together. I was not aware of a key under the flywheel though. Is there any other option than to dremel the nut off and try not to destroy the thread in the process?

 

[F_R]

Re: powerhead removal question #1

Haul it by your local mechanic or tire changer guy and have him zip it off with his air impact wrench. He probably won't charge you anything if he's in a good mood.

 

[Drowned Rat]

Re: powerhead removal question #1

FR, could you put the motor in gear, chock the prop and then try unscrewing the nut? As long as it didn't take too much torque to remove, you might not destroy anything.

 

[F_R]

Re: powerhead removal question #1

Yeah, that'd work too.

 

[floatingwoody2006]

Re: powerhead removal question #1

I think i will try to dremmel the nut off tonight. Chocking the prop while possibly a sound idea just makes me nervous thinking about it. I would rather replace a nut and flywheel key than have lower unit issues or a bent prop. So much for a nice easy teardown. Hope i don't "bugger" the threads when attempting this..

 

[floatingwoody2006]

Re: powerhead removal question #1

Ok.. You guys rock.. I got the bolt off with dremmel and chisel.. No damage to anything there. Now the flywheel is not coming off without a fight. Sheared flywheel key possibly hung up? Anyways.. Whats the most pressure i should put on the puller before being concerned?.. Is there anything else im not seeing that may still be bolted by chance? I have removed the 3 bolts on top, and the center nut.. Thanks in advance again. I am taking progress pics..

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: powerhead removal question #1

Torque down on the puller nut real good then apply some heat from a propane torch to the flywheel. Keep the torch flame moving around the crank to evenly spread the heat. It may just jump off.

"Our Friend Heat" if properly used can solve a lot of problems

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: powerhead removal question #1

Oh, forgot. You said shaft was spinning in the flywheel hub. Therefore it is loose. If the flywheel is slightly crooked, the magnets will contact the magneto cores and make it difficult to remove, even if loose on the shaft--try gently rocking and prying it while lifting.

 

[floatingwoody2006]

Re: powerhead removal question #1

Finally heard the "pop" after a few hours and several beverages. Neat trick was that i dremel'ed some of the nut off, then using a chisel, tapped it counterclockwise and it spun off. The flywheel key was not sheared as we suspected.. Don't know what that means to re-tourqing the nut for assembly, but ill cross that bridge then. One of the points was completely closed, and i am assuming this would cause the no spark along with bad wires. So.. I need to re-adjust the points to .20 and replace the plug wires. Wires are attached to the coils underneath right? Can i just use any type of plug wire or is it a specific type? If i get long winded, or the post too long, let me know and ill back off a bit. Thanks in advance..

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