PREFERRED method to winterize raw/lake water side of closed cooling system.

tb0ne

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I've spent considerable time reading through the great threads here, but still have a question regarding the best and most efficient (not to confuse with 'easy way out', but avoiding an engineering procedure also!) method to add anti-freeze to my raw water side of a closed cooling system for winterizing and corrosion resistance. I've read the ADULTS SECTION and appropriate STICKY NOTES. Particularly #14 of ADULT SECTION WINTERIZING. Have manuals and have read them 3 times.

I am confident on removing water with compressed air via schrader valve and manual drain points. Getting the proper anti-freeze/corrosion resistant solution is introduced into the system is my main concern/question.

I have a 2005 Formula 260SS with Mercruiser 496 Mag HO DTS, s/n OM680176. It was a salt water boat (150hours) previous to this summer (2009) and now operates in Michigan and therefore facing a cold winter stored unheated/indoors.

It's the procedure I'm looking to gain knowledge/advice on. Thank you.
 

scutly

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Re: PREFERRED method to winterize raw/lake water side of closed cooling system.

i had the same question and read the same things and this is what i figured out and did. but im no expert and this is my first time doing this. well assuming your setup is like mine with a heat exchanger. i removed three hoses from exchanger. 1 inlet hose from out-drive that has inline power steering cooler. 2 hoses that run from exchanger to top of exhaust elbows. then i poured about a half gallon of marine anti freeze through all three hoses. i also removed the end caps from the exchanger and blew it out with air. that's pretty much it. check your exhaust elbows for a drain plugs. mine don't have them unfortunately. basically i just flushed the raw side with anti-freeze and it all poured out the exhaust bellows and water inlet. (i had already removed my out drive). there's really no way i don't think to "fill" the raw side. did i make sence? i hope! lol
 

tb0ne

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Re: PREFERRED method to winterize raw/lake water side of closed cooling system.

That's one method I've heard, but not that detailed. I also heard about using 'muffs' with a container of anti-freeze connected to them in order to fill the raw/lake water side. Both seem as if they'd work, but thought I'd get an idea on which is most effective.

Thanks for the tip.
 

nola mike

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Re: PREFERRED method to winterize raw/lake water side of closed cooling system.

why are you bothering with all that? not recommended b y merc afaik. if you just remove the plug on the exchanger, and make sure you have enough antifreeze o n the engine side you should be good to go. nice thing about the closed system is no raw water in the block to freeze...
 

tb0ne

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Re: PREFERRED method to winterize raw/lake water side of closed cooling system.

Yes, that's arguably a correct statement. However, to be sure/safe several folks recommend filling the raw side with a/f. After two conversations with the MERC Reps, they DID in fact recommend the procedure be done. (Although not very detailed on their recommended procedure, and their manual has much to be desired)

I ended up doing the 5 gal container technique filled with -100F a/f connected to muffs and ran that through til empty and confirmed via visual observation of exhaust and quick drain of a(n) mpd on raw system.

Trust me, I'd have rather just 'blown' it out via the air drain system and been done with it!

And I did have a malfunctioning air drain system come to find out. Only a small amount if water(1-2gal) came out the port vent. MERC Rep confirmed that too. Nice, huh?! Imagine if I didn't read these Forums??!!
 

tb0ne

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Re: PREFERRED method to winterize raw/lake water side of closed cooling system.

Additionally, there's no manual drain procedure (mpd, 'blue plastic plug') on my 496 heat exchanger. In fact, rarely anything on my 496 MAG HO is like the MERC manual(s).

Sure, I'm dumb. But I can read, especially pictures! But when those are wrong---sheesh!
 

scutly

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Re: PREFERRED method to winterize raw/lake water side of closed cooling system.

Additionally, there's no manual drain procedure (mpd, 'blue plastic plug') on my 496 heat exchanger. In fact, rarely anything on my 496 MAG HO is like the MERC manual(s).

i ran into that problem as well. my cooling system didnt match any pictures i found in merc manuals. i then found out that it is an aftermarket kit made by Monitor Products in FL. maybe you have the same system?
 

tb0ne

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Re: PREFERRED method to winterize raw/lake water side of closed cooling system.

I didn't see my actual heat exchanger on that website. But I'm convinced it's a MERC product, as it does match "some" of the photos in the manual.

There sure seems to be a varying opinion on how to winterize these closed cooling systems. How did you verify you had 'backfilled' your raw water side when you filled the hoses/manifolds? Via the manual drain points?

Thanks for that website direction.
 

HT32BSX115

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Re: PREFERRED method to winterize raw/lake water side of closed cooling system.

Howdy,

I winterize my 454/Bravo with closed cooling, by taking a tub and placing it below the transom to catch the water discharge at the transom. (do you have Capts Call?)

I use a solution of antifreeze that I suck up with a flush adapter (muffs) and catch it as it exits at the transom exhaust drain. (I don't have thru-hulls and in a Bravo, very little if any water actually exits out the center of the props.)

I allow it to circulate thru the raw side of the cooling system until it begins to warm up. The antifreeze mixes with the little bit of clear water that is always pooled in the raw side plumbing & main, oil and power steering heat exchangers etc.

I let it run long enough to mix thoroughly and the last thing I do is fog the engine to "kill" it. Be sure to change your oil and filter before you do the final "kill" with the "fog" though.


The other method would be to simply drain the "raw" side of the heat exchanger(s) and associated "raw-side" plumbing......but I always worry about any other water that is pooled in areas that I cannot drain.


Regards,


Rick
 

tb0ne

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Re: PREFERRED method to winterize raw/lake water side of closed cooling system.

That's very reassuring to hear your method, which was similar to the one I adapated (first time owner) to winterize my Merc 496 MAG HO. Although I do have thru-hull Corsa, and did not catch the fluid exiting the exhaust (which I should at $10/gal!) I feel as if I got it into the raw water system via the 'muffs'.

I assume I'll continue this method until somebody on the forum comes up with a better way.

I changed fluids first and did the backfill last like you mentioned. As for 'fogging'. Not to embed a 'thread-in-a-thread', but had a great recommendation from my mechanic to put a mixture of stabil mixed with 2-cycle oil (just enough to fill the bottom. 2oz maybe?) inside the FUEL/WATER seperator filter and run it into the heads while doing the a/f backfill. He said it's easier than pulling individual plugs, etc. Maybe I'll post that as a new thread to see how folks feel about it.

Thanks Scutly and Rick for the reassurance on your thoughts/recommendations to backfill the raw side with a/f.

(Rick-nice 73 with winglets Avatar. Should put my MD11 on mine.)
 

HT32BSX115

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Re: PREFERRED method to winterize raw/lake water side of closed cooling system.

(Rick-nice 73 with winglets Avatar. Should put my MD11 on mine.)

Yeah....I'm not really pleased with them..........I'd rather liked the MD80.....but alas! No more MD80's with an Eskimo on the tail!!
 

z284u2try

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Re: PREFERRED method to winterize raw/lake water side of closed cooling system.

I have been using the muff method for a few years with good results. This is on a partial closed cool sytem that is only the block. The madifolds have drain plugs and I drain them before I run afreeze through the muffs so my manis have some afreeze in them also. I have the little air pump system from merc. I don't really trust it. Anyone have good luck with clearing the w2w cooler with the punp sytsem?
 
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