nothingspecial
Cadet
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2013
- Messages
- 19
Re: Problems with first rebuild
Happy Thanksgiving!!
Sorry, I cleaned up the fuel PUMP. Yes, you are correct. I meant to write pump , not filter. I will order one asap.
I am planning on running fully synthetic 25-40 after 20 hours break in. I am using a 25-40 synthetic blend for break in. Is this ok? is there a better oil for break in? maybe something cheap that I can replace often as check to see it's fuel content.
Compression test- I did not have the throttle wide open. It was at idle. All other plugs were out. I made a special ground wire for coil out of a spark plug wire. (I pulled off the coil wire that went from coil to center of distributor) New wire went from coil to ground on block.
I did a dry test. I did not squirt any oil in spark plug holes yet and recheck. I will. Also I used a free tester from auto zone. I am going to see if they have a different set for next test. Maybe damaged/ not accurate?
Spark plugs were black-wet- and smelled like gas
exhaust smells like fuel with some white smoke (working on a video)
Let me put all my cards on the table. I got this boat and motor on a trade. The motor (block,cam,crank,pistons,lifters and heads)were rebuilt by a professional shop. This unit was sealed in plastic, on a small steel stand. All the other components for engine were off motor. I was told that he paid for new parts in block. I have no paper work or info on parts used. I only saw lifters from top and don't know if they are flat or roller. (my manual says they should be flat but that doesn't mean they are.) I guess i really need to know this so any suggestions on how to pull one out to see? I did find two papers rubber banded to lifters. One said not to use sand paper on any parts in motor or it would void warranty. The other says ....Caution! Valves must be readjusted at engine operating temperatures. I have not touched them yet. I was expecting to hear a knock from them on first start but did not hear anything.
I put on; oil deflector, oil pump, oil pan. Intake manifold, new carb, Thermostat housing, (I put a new 160 degree thermostat in) Distributor (had HEI-changed to EST),valve covers, Harmonic balancer, pulley wheels. Water pump, alternator, power steering pump, fuel filter assembly, New flywheel,coupling,bell housing, new starter, solinoid, motor mounts, exhaust manifolds, all new hoses, I used old fuel pump. I will replace fuel pump with whole new assembly. All parts were cleaned best I could and some painted-wife wanted some blue to match the boat
I am glad I took a day this week and ran a natural gas line to the garage for my new heater. Looks like i"m going to be out there a lot.
Happy Thanksgiving!!
Sorry, I cleaned up the fuel PUMP. Yes, you are correct. I meant to write pump , not filter. I will order one asap.
I am planning on running fully synthetic 25-40 after 20 hours break in. I am using a 25-40 synthetic blend for break in. Is this ok? is there a better oil for break in? maybe something cheap that I can replace often as check to see it's fuel content.
Compression test- I did not have the throttle wide open. It was at idle. All other plugs were out. I made a special ground wire for coil out of a spark plug wire. (I pulled off the coil wire that went from coil to center of distributor) New wire went from coil to ground on block.
I did a dry test. I did not squirt any oil in spark plug holes yet and recheck. I will. Also I used a free tester from auto zone. I am going to see if they have a different set for next test. Maybe damaged/ not accurate?
Spark plugs were black-wet- and smelled like gas
exhaust smells like fuel with some white smoke (working on a video)
Let me put all my cards on the table. I got this boat and motor on a trade. The motor (block,cam,crank,pistons,lifters and heads)were rebuilt by a professional shop. This unit was sealed in plastic, on a small steel stand. All the other components for engine were off motor. I was told that he paid for new parts in block. I have no paper work or info on parts used. I only saw lifters from top and don't know if they are flat or roller. (my manual says they should be flat but that doesn't mean they are.) I guess i really need to know this so any suggestions on how to pull one out to see? I did find two papers rubber banded to lifters. One said not to use sand paper on any parts in motor or it would void warranty. The other says ....Caution! Valves must be readjusted at engine operating temperatures. I have not touched them yet. I was expecting to hear a knock from them on first start but did not hear anything.
I put on; oil deflector, oil pump, oil pan. Intake manifold, new carb, Thermostat housing, (I put a new 160 degree thermostat in) Distributor (had HEI-changed to EST),valve covers, Harmonic balancer, pulley wheels. Water pump, alternator, power steering pump, fuel filter assembly, New flywheel,coupling,bell housing, new starter, solinoid, motor mounts, exhaust manifolds, all new hoses, I used old fuel pump. I will replace fuel pump with whole new assembly. All parts were cleaned best I could and some painted-wife wanted some blue to match the boat
I am glad I took a day this week and ran a natural gas line to the garage for my new heater. Looks like i"m going to be out there a lot.
