Project Fishtoon

[Water logged]

Re: Project Fishtoon

That video was great. Been following since you 1st put it on the forum, what a superb project result. That is a super family fishing boat.

Glenn

 

[BrianMc]

• Thanks, Glenn
  
  It'll also see family fun time too. All the fishing storage,tackle,and tanks will pull off in a few minutes at the ramp. Even plan on adding a quick-tatch to the trolling motor. Then pile the family on for some tubing and skiing.
  
  

  What prop are you using?
  
  I hope to build mine up similar one day...

  
  
  Running the highest raked prop I could find in a 16 pitch. The enertia by mercury,which is hooked up pretty good for a toon. I usually aim a bit low on pitch,because I'd rather add pitch than take it away. Gives it more progression. Really need a 17"+ as I'm bumping the limiter pretty quick by myself. Starts retarding the timing at 5600 and dies at 5800 and 41-42. With 750 lbs. of people and 600 lbs of fishing equipment she runs at 5300 and 38-39 mph. If I pull the limiter off this XR6 and bolt on a shorter tuner it's suppose to make 200 hp. Maybe next yr.​
• -
  
  Balance is good for an all around rig. Running light I'm on plane in 50 ft if I hammer on it. I can trim the nose up,or stuff it down. Stays on plane down to 13-14 mph,and runs smooth stretched out over the waves. Done something "outside the box" for more stern lift,but can't say yet how well it works as I have nothing to compare it too.​

 

[The Rooster]

Re: Project Fishtoon

Awesome Brian. I think its time to patent this thing and take it to market !!! Good Luck !!!

 

[BrianMc]

• Rooster I'll send you the plans,so you can build the next one. Take lots of pics!
  
  
  For those that wondered if the diamond plate would be too bright and hot. My 18 month old grandson runs around barefoot on it during the heat of the day. Since it's all aluminum I think it dissipates into the water. I didn't seal the decking,so it's dulled down enough the 2nd season to where I don't even notice it. It's great with the washdown pump for washing down the fish blood,shad slime,pop,chips,and even smashed bananas.
  
  Somebody wanted to know how the transducer worked where it's mounted. Reads good up to 10 mph,then just the depth to 20 mph,and after that nothing. About what I expected. Could be better,but it's fairly protected there.​
• Really like the way it fishes for my methods. I don't bass fish. Mostly drifting,hovering,or slow trolling with the minnkota. That 101 I-pilot locks down in anchor mode better than a real anchor. Was fishing around a lot of boats last weekend that were in a tournament. I had out one 60" drift sock,and most of the other boats were leaving me. That was a big win for me. It doesn't catch much wind for a toon. In 10-15 mph winds I was drifting .3-.5 mph.​

 

[BrianMc]

• The business end of a true fishtoon. It's been a fun season even with the late start. Works great whether I'm drifting,hovering,or slow trolling. Next spring I'll put together a video of the chaos during a good Wiper run with about a dozen rods screaming.​
• -
  

 

[The Rooster]

Re: Project Fishtoon

Excellent video, Brian. Even better music !!! eace:

 

[TurboM700]

Re: Project Fishtoon

Nice video. Them are some big fish and I agree on the music. Well done.

 

[Silver Eagle]

Re: Project Fishtoon

I have Diamond plating on my front and rear railings, No problem but when I put diamond plating on my 40 x48 inch flat bed trailer the sun glare is awful. Good luck.

 

[BrianMc]

No luck needed. Been using it for a while now,and don't even notice it. Less of an issue than the shiny white gelcoat on my last boat. Like any other aluminum without a sealer it dulls quick. If it where a problem I would line-x it. Thanks for the concern though.

 

[-dirt-]

Re: Project Fishtoon

I asked this a while back, and I'm still wondering about it: how did you determine the size and angle of the strakes you added to the center toon? Can you provided the specs or a diagram of those? Thanks!

Free bump for an awesome rig.

 

[BrianMc]

That's been long enough ago that I don't recall the dimensions,and it's still tucked away in hibernation right now. Believe the side strakes were 6" on the bottom side. I wasn't so much worried about the angle,as I was the width of the planning surface and the height it rode in the water. Right or wrong I thought it would best "trap" the water and pop it up on plane the fastest by keeping the outer points close to even with the bottom of the tube. It would create a wide planing surface,and ride high on plane.

I've seen some with the strakes higher up the tube. But, it seems to me the water rolling up from the bottom of the tube will slide off the side of the strake easier,rather than having to slide back to exit the strakes. Something else I was looking at when I chose the style of strake was the sharp edge. With a round edge water will drag around the strake easier due to surface tension,causing more drag. As to where the sharp edge will cut and release. The way I see it the water and air I can trap along the planning surface is more "slick" than the tube surface itself. With rounded strakes mounted higher it would seem that a lot more water has to drag across the aluminum as it's being drug off the side verses trapped and directed back.

I don't know if I'm explaining this right,or if that made any sense. I suppose this could be debated all night. I do know it'll pop up in about a boat length, rides really high on plane, and stays on plane down to about 13-14 mph. I run pretty heavy when I fish with all the gear,people,and water in the tanks. So I've been happy with it's performance.

 

[-dirt-]

Re: Project Fishtoon

Thanks for that info! Do you recall the thickness of the material used for the strakes?

Also, did you add the skeg ridge/bottom V to the two outside tubes? If so, what material was used for that?

 

[gm280]

Re: Project Fishtoon

I haven't even read through this thread yet, but just looking at the pictures, this has to be the best pontoon rebuild I've ever seen. Extremely nice professional work and the attention to the detail is amazing. I now have to read this entire thread and see what you did to this amazing machine. I saw enough to know you have great ideas and skills to accomplish such a nice setup. I have to give you two thumbs up. :thumb: :thumb:

 

[Silver Eagle]

Re: Project Fishtoon

I have Diamond plating on my pontoon Boat .It covers the front door and goes around to the sides and it wraps around the rear from the motor around to the sides. I did this to protect the sides when I'm docking the boat. The Chesapecke bay gets pretty rough at times and the boat needs that added protection form getting all banged up. I really like the center console They all should be like hat. Sure would be easier to see what's in front of you.

 

[-dirt-]

Re: Project Fishtoon

More questions: what is the angle of the transom, and how has that worked out for you? And jack plate? Is that Mercury a long shaft or short?

I'm in the process of adding a full length center toon to my 24'. I have a long shaft Honda 150 on there now...

 

[BrianMc]

• Thanks, gm280!
  
  dirt,I need to do some measuring for you. We have another winter storm rolling in this weekend,so not sure if I'll get to it then. My glass boats use to have 12 degr. transoms,so I went with 15 thinking I wouldn't use that much pos. trim. I was wrong as it gains speed and bow lift all the way to the top of the trim cylinders. By doing so however it puts tremendous strain on the transom,and started to cave the transom plate in. So I reinforced that with 1/2" plate behind the JP,and turnbuckles tied from the top mounting bolts to the frame above the tube. Hell for stout now​
• I went with a hydr. JP with the suspicion that I'd have to drop the motor at speed, verses raising it like on most hulls. I was right on that. I mounted it so at half travel on the JP I was about 1" above the bottom of the tube with the cav plate. With the 3 blade I'll drop it around 2" more in order to hold bite at full trim. With the 4 blade I bottom it out (2 1/2" down),and still can't go full trim. I'll drop the motor another hole for the best range. Just remember to raise it up at the ramp. Those darn seastar steering rams sure weren't designed for JP's. Has been the same problem on my last 3 rigs. A 25" lower unit would solve that. Mine is a 20" lower unit,and my transom I believe is 19" tall.​

 

[BrianMc]

Silver Eagle, your right about the vision. With the front seats folded down and no front fence I can see the front deck trim sitting behind the console. Also makes docking on either side easy.

 

[-dirt-]

Re: Project Fishtoon

I didn't quite follow the transom angle info -- do you wished you would have made transom with more angle (like 15 deg) or less? I think you are saying less, as that would have alleviated some of the strain on the transom...

Good to know about the transom issues with JP install. I figure my heavy 4 stroke Honda will need a super stout transom.

From earlier in the thread:

The transom is two 1/4" plates with 1 1/2"x3"x1/4" rectangle tubing stacked and sandwiched between. The top plate tieing the transom and rear bulkhead together is also 1/4" aluminum plate.

What materials would you suggest for mine? (2) 3/8" plates with 1 1/2" x 3/8" square tubing inner frame? Or should I step up to 1/2" plate?

And sorry for this dumb question: your decking is 1/8" aluminum diamond plate, right? Is it rigid enough for you with the added stringers, or do you wish you had used thicker material?

I'm picking up my parts toon in the morning and will basically be copying a lot of your work for the center toon and floor frame, so any thing you'd have done differently is appreciated!

 

[BrianMc]

• 
  Sorry dirt, I can see how that would read confusing. I guess what I'm saying is yes the smaller angle is hard on the transom,but if it's stout enough you'll have a more usable trim range with the aid of a hydr. JP. I have no need to trim down more than 1/2,but use every bit of positive trim. The only way you can hold bite with that much trim is to be able to lower the prop. Now your gaining leverage to help lift the bow of that long boat. This photo shows how much trim I'm using at speed;
  
  
  I need to get you measurements for the transom angle on mine to be sure. If I ever build another one I'd use a single 1/2" plate,with 1/2"x6" vertical plates behind the JP that run top to bottom. I think the turnbuckle to the frame is a good idea,as it transfers some of the torque to the frame.
  
  The diamond plate is 1/8",and is plenty stout with stringers on 12" centers. I'd also go with the perimeter frame. One thing I'd do different is run 2" rigged pvc conduit for rigging,pulling wiring,and plumbing. Everything on mine runs above the center tube,so it's a little crowded and hard to pull anything new.​
• -
  
  Forgot to tell you I never did mic the thickness of the strake material,but estimating .090-.100​

 

[BrianMc]

dirt, I feel like a dope. I used a photo to measure the angle,and found I went with a 15 degr transom. I can remember thinking I wouldn't need that much positive trim,and it looks like now I could have used a lil more. I went back and edited my post not to confuse others with my short term memory.

If I was to do it over I guess I'd go with 12 degr. That should leave me with extra trim both positive or negative. Of course the amount of trim you'll need depends on a lot of factors. Try not to add anymore weight to the front half of the deck than you have to. This will help the bowlift more than anything. The enertia prop hooks up great for me by being able to drop the lower unit with the hydr. JP for more positive trim.

This photo will give you an idea where to start on motor height. This is mine at full trim,and the highest I can run my enertia at speed running lite. Eyeball down your cav plate at full trim,and set that line to the botton of your tube. Leave a little down stroke on the JP for fine tuning.