Pulling Engine, can't pull straight up.

[Bt Doctur]

-anyone want to come to Northern Virginia? ha

I could ,I have modified a few boats already, nothing to worry about IF done correctly
Plus the repair would be almost invisable using some brushed aluminum strip or teak strips

 

[alldodge]

fhhuber - yep, will probably need to remove exhaust manifold/risers and probably need to pull my generator as well.

gm280 -anyone want to come to Northern Virginia? ha

would you guys try this yourself or would you guys leave this to the pros? (I hate saying that)

Would have no issue doing this myself, SBC not really that heavy, shouldn't take a lot.

As for the GEN, I don't think so but I'm not there to measure. I pulled my big block out and back in and had to remove ALT and water pump prior. You appear to have more room. While mine was not under the deck as far, it to had to be pushed under to get it in position.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Except for the fact the hatch is way up front

 

[ormjgrouch]

Alldodge - thanks man, that's what I want to hear, I hate having someone else fix my stuff.

Freaking cold today......

BTdoctor - do you live in Virginia?

 

[gm280]

ormjgrouch, NO, I use to live in Northeastern PA so I know all about such weather. BUT, to answer your question about would I do that myself. YES and NO. I would absolutely tackle that problem, but not just with me alone. My two adult sons would obviously help. But we would do it ourselves and not take it anywhere to get it done. We've done a lot worst and have rebuilt most every part of an automobile that anybody could think of. Engines, transmissions, differentials, change bodies on frames, total auto body work, new paint jobs, even made new seat covers, you name it, we've done it. So this would be a challenge we would address head on. JMHO!

 

[alldodge]

Except for the fact the hatch is way up front

I know BT, was not my point

 

[Bt Doctur]

No, but when I still was smoking I did a water pump in Richmand, he paid for the gas from the smoke shop to him and back.
Did a lot of back and forth trip to the Naval Base to see my son

 

[Bt Doctur]

The only other boat I did that was tight I had to remove the throttle body to get the engine hoist bracket low enough to lift the motor up . But with that one the center of the engine was barely visable in the hatch opening

 

[Bondo]

Tell me about it 2nd coupler!?!?! should of see the faces on the mechanic/employees at the marina when I told them. at least I had a good year out with the boat with the family, now I need to check everything over so we go venture out more.

Ayuh,.... The thing is, ya gotta find out Why it blew the 2nd time,....

Obviously, the guys at the marina probably didn't even look for the "Why", they just changed it out,....

Couplers should last many Years, not several hours,....

I like AD's idea for liftin' under the deck,....
'n as far as hirin' it out,...
You seem to be a pretty Handy kinda guy,... I'm Sure you can pull it off,....

The biggest variable is how much of the motor ya gotta take off, Before ya pull it,....
'n remember, that stuff will need to be installed again, After settin' the motor back in,....

We've got an ole Slickcraft 195SS in the fleet that We pulled the 3.0l/ mod. 1 outa, 'n dropped in a 350/ alpha,....
Ya can't put the motor in with the manifolds on,...
Ya gotta lower the motor through the hatch, sideways, without manifolds, 'n turn the motor 90? to set it on it's mounts, then stand on yer head to put everything back together,...
To look at it, it's got tons of space to work, problem is, I work with my hands, 'n not my feet,....

A Sweet ride to go play on in the St. Lawrence on occasion, but a pain to work on,....

 

[Rick Stephens]

Ayuh,.... The thing is, ya gotta find out Why it blew the 2nd time,....

bondo has the crux of it. Bad motor mounts, bad alignment, improper install of the coupler to the flywheel. Must find it before reinstallation or you'll be repeating. Those dang couplers ain't cheap either.

 

[JaguarMan]

Harbor freight engine leveler worked for me with the same problem

 

[ormjgrouch]

Rick/Bondo - Exactly more reason why I want to do this myself (with help BIL's) to see why it blew again.

Jaguarman - thanks for the pic, can you elaborate more of how you supported both side of the pole?

 

[gm280]

ormjgrouch, obvious an "A" frame setup with moveable wheels and a host would be the perfect case scenario, but I don't think that is going to happen. So improvising is your answer. But only with help from one or more folks and observing safety first issues. JMHO!

 

[JaCrispy]

I feel your pain. My boat was capped after the engine was installed so I cut the back of the cap off to remove it.

Can you squeeze in alongside the engine?

 

[Rick Stephens]

With some measurements, I would recommend you make up a custom 'C' shaped offset puller like AllDodge posted on page 1. Then I would have said tool on the wall for the future. The weight of the motor is low enough that it leaves a lot of variations in materials available to accomplish that. If you don't own a welder, find a small shop that has a guy who you can talk to and you'll get it done pretty easy. You will have to account for how high the motor has to go to clear the pan and the flywheel housing. as it slides past the motor mounts.

 

[ormjgrouch]

JaCrispy - yes I can squeeze along the left side water tank is there. The right side the starboard engine is there.

Rick Stephens - Yes I do have a welder, can't wait to fire it up, its been awhile. Will probably build the C/U shape out of cardboard/wood first

thanks guys.

 

[JaCrispy]

What about removing the manifolds (they have to be removed no matter what) and just sliding the engine forward? If you can take the weight off the bell housing you might be able to slip out the coupling.

 

[Bondo]

What about removing the manifolds (they have to be removed no matter what) and just sliding the engine forward? If you can take the weight off the bell housing you might be able to slip out the coupling.

Ayuh,.... The drive Has to be pulled before the motor,... The coupler will have nothin' in it,....

The stacked rear motor mounts gotta go straight up, 'n straight down,...
Not alot, but enough not to drag the stack apart,...

 

[flipbro]

Could u pull manifolds.Remove alt power steering pump and water pump. Then remove the carb. Next make yourself a plate out of 1/2 inch flat steal with a lifting lug welded in the center that will bolt up were carb was. Then build the out fit Alldodge showed desighn it to couple to the plate bolted to intake and remove your motor. This should give allsorts of room...

 

[JaCrispy]

Ayuh,.... The drive Has to be pulled before the motor,... The coupler will have nothin' in it,....

The stacked rear motor mounts gotta go straight up, 'n straight down,...
Not alot, but enough not to drag the stack apart,...

Yes, I'm aware the drive has to be removed.

What I'm saying is, with the weight off the rear of the engine, remove the bellhousing bolts, slide the engine forward on the stringers and slip out the coupler. The bellhousing would stay put. Hard to tell from the photos but looks like you would have to remove the manifold/riser and possibly the crank pulley for enough room.