Pulling Engine to Replace Oil Pan - 1st timer - edit: 1 More Question!

murinsky

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Hello Everyone, <br />Last time I posted here I got a ton of good info and ended up replacing my gimbal ring and I am thankful for the peace of mind not having to worry about it. In doing that job, I discovered a pinhole in my oil pan. I intend to pull the engine to replace this and some other stuff (more below). The engine is a 1988 Mercruiser 7.4, with a Bravo I drive of the same year. The boat is a Stingray Maxum 222. As a disclaimer, you will not be the first to tell me not to put more money into the boat, I LIKE IT! :p I have the official Mercruiser books, the alignment tool, a friend with a heated garage and a hoist inside and yet I am still nervous. Here are my questions: <br /><br />1. I plan to avoid the stamped oil pans, however, how necessary to pay almost $1000 for a cast one? I see on cpperformance.com they have some gold iridite ones, and I have seen aluminum ones around. Are these viable alternatives? Yes, the boat goes in the salt but is kept on a trailer and never "put away wet."<br /><br />2. While the engine is out I plan to also replace the starter and forward motor mounts which look quite rusty. Any common pitfalls to avoid here?<br /><br />3. Am I forgetting anything obvious? Someone more knowledgeable than myself said in this forum to always have a look inside when the engine is out, but I don't really feel comfortable "going inside." What other parts are only accessable when the engine is removed besides the oil pan?<br /><br />I figure the worst that can happen is, I can't get everything to go back together and have to have someone do that for me, but I will still be ahead by doing the removal and new parts installation myself. right? RIGHT? ;) <br /><br />Thanks everyone, lmk if I left out any key info.<br /><br />Mike
 

Don S

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Re: Pulling Engine to Replace Oil Pan - 1st timer - edit: 1 More Question!

1. I plan to avoid the stamped oil pans, however, how necessary to pay almost $1000 for a cast one? I see on cpperformance.com they have some gold iridite ones, and I have seen aluminum ones around. Are these viable alternatives? Yes, the boat goes in the salt but is kept on a trailer and never "put away wet."
If you clean, prime, and paint the old pan or even a new pan and keep the water out of the bilge, the pan won't get all rusty. Also check the timing chain cover. If it's rusty, the pan as to be removed to replace it too.<br /><br />
2. While the engine is out I plan to also replace the starter and forward motor mounts which look quite rusty. Any common pitfalls to avoid here?<br />
Replace the rear motor mounts and check the splines in the coupler. Being an 88, the mounts are due. Look at the coupler splines if they come up to a sharp point, replace them and the input shaft on the drive as a set.<br /><br />Before you take the engine out, run it warm it up and do a PROPER compression test. If it's not looking too good, do a leakdown test to determine the reason for the problem.
 

Haut Medoc

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Re: Pulling Engine to Replace Oil Pan - 1st timer - edit: 1 More Question!

You have a good plan of attack.....If you have a digital camera take some pics.....See if you can come up with a good used oil pan, it would save a couple of ducats if you can get the right one......Clean & paint anything metal that is not so acessable when the engine is in....My two cents....I'm sure others will have some additional input.....Where is Niantic Bay :confused: .....JK
 

Don S

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Re: Pulling Engine to Replace Oil Pan - 1st timer - edit: 1 More Question!

That's easy:<br />41° 18' 28" N<br />72° 11' 17" W<br />North Shore of Long Island Sound<br />NOAA chart #13211<br />Love these free charts and programs.<br /><br />
Niantic%20Bay.png
 

Haut Medoc

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Re: Pulling Engine to Replace Oil Pan - 1st timer - edit: 1 More Question!

Striper & blues country... :) Where did you access that, Don? Just punch in NOAA or what???.....Btw, I saw that video of Orca/Salmon...Holy carp! We see 'em in the San Juans, but I have never been that close! Our Orcas are spoiled here, they only eat salmon....I wish they would develop a taste for seal :rolleyes: :) .....JK
 

murinsky

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Re: Pulling Engine to Replace Oil Pan - 1st timer - edit: 1 More Question!

Thanks, wow that was fast! Don, are you saying the stamped pan may not be that bad? And HM, if I try to find a used one, is this one item where an automotive part would be ok if properly prep'd?
 

Don S

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Re: Pulling Engine to Replace Oil Pan - 1st timer - edit: 1 More Question!

Maptech now puts out free charts for NOAA.<br /><br /> http://www.freeboatingcharts.com/index.cfm <br /><br />You can download the free Chart Navigator for free also. Ya can't hook a GPS to it, that would cost a hundred bucks more, but to download every chart in the US for free and be able to look at everything with the most up to date charts and print them out on your own printer.... Priceless :D :D <br /><br />Enough on this subject, back to Mikes problem. Sorry I hijacked your thread there for a minute Mike.
 

murinsky

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Re: Pulling Engine to Replace Oil Pan - 1st timer - edit: 1 More Question!

Thats ok Don, for free charts I can let it slide! Good info :D
 

Don S

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Re: Pulling Engine to Replace Oil Pan - 1st timer - edit: 1 More Question!

Yes, if you can find an automotive pan that would fit, there is no particular reason to have a MARINE pan. As long as an automotive pan clears everything go for it.
 

Bt Doctur

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Re: Pulling Engine to Replace Oil Pan - 1st timer - edit: 1 More Question!

you may have to remove the baffel in the auto pan if it comes with one.check the oil pickup height too.
 

Lou C

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Re: Pulling Engine to Replace Oil Pan - 1st timer - edit: 1 More Question!

Paint it with rust resistant paint and then spray the bottom with something like Boeshield or Corrosion X,
 

SwampNut

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Re: Pulling Engine to Replace Oil Pan - 1st timer - edit: 1 More Question!

Here's how I fixed my last oil pan issue:<br /><br />Drill out the hole to make it just a little larger. Apply JB weld to a sheet metal screw, tighten screw into hole.<br /><br />Done.
 

paulie0735

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Re: Pulling Engine to Replace Oil Pan - 1st timer - edit: 1 More Question!

If you want to use an automotive pan make sure your current oil pump pick up is compatible. Remember these engines found there way into many different vehicles and almost every one is different so the pan shape and oil pump pick up is usually not interchangeable from one to the other. I would use the old one, slip the engine out and remove the pan, get it sandblasted or chemically cleaned, that will uncover any area's that are corroded and than assess if its repairable or needs to be replaced.
 

Cptkid570

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Re: Pulling Engine to Replace Oil Pan - 1st timer - edit: 1 More Question!

How bad is the leak? Could you just put some JB Weld on it? Or could your old one be welded?<br /><br />Anyway, there are pros and cons to this product (some say it drains too slow).. but, an oil drain hose may be a good thing to install. Makes oil changes easier if your boat is up on a trailer<br /><br /> http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/Merchant...ore_Code=eBasicPower&Product_Code=MPI306-0380
 

Haut Medoc

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Re: Pulling Engine to Replace Oil Pan - 1st timer - edit: 1 More Question!

Niantic, the problem is probably from salt water in your bilge......You can do some of the above suggestions for a weekend fix, but.....From my experience if there is one there will be more.....& save yourself from the oily bilge ticket if the Coast Guard boards you....Not to mention the oily water over the side into the environment......The best thing you can do to prevent this from happening is to keep the bilge dry as possible & flush with fresh water when you can ;) .....JK
 

murinsky

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Re: Pulling Engine to Replace Oil Pan - 1st timer - edit: 1 More Question!

Thanks everyone for your help. <br /><br />My mechanic also suggested the JB weld/screw but as I started to undertake that it felt like the rusted/holed area was not durable enough to take the screw without making things worse. HM I agree it looks like there will be more. <br /><br />Paulie, how obvious will it be if the pickup is in the wrong place? Is it as simple as if it fits, its ok? Or will it trick me into thinking it worked when really my engine is getting no oil! <br /><br />Mike
 

paulie0735

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Re: Pulling Engine to Replace Oil Pan - 1st timer - edit: 1 More Question!

I’ll be very surprised if yours is beyond repair but if you have to replace and you want to use an automotive one than you will need to look for an automotive pan that has the main storage area in the pan at the same end as yours; this is the most critical point. Have a look inside your pan as you may find the pick up screen fits into a specially baffled area in the pan to help eliminate oil starvation during rough water, if so you may have a problem fitting a pan from a car without a bit of modification to make it work correctly. Don’t be tempted to just hack out the baffled area, its needed to stop the oil surging away from the pick up!<br /><br />I’m pretty sure the oil pumps were all much the same so it’s possible you could get away with using the automotive pick up tube and pan from the same engine and than having a baffle installed if it doesn’t already have one.
 

fireship1

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Re: Pulling Engine to Replace Oil Pan - 1st timer - edit: 1 More Question!

Hello, If you know how to weld or know someone (or a shop) that does have it sandblasted, patched and painted with rust preventive paint. As long as the pan is not warped and is not severly rusted out, this should save you lots of $$$ and headaches on finding one that might or might not fit.
 

rodbolt

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Re: Pulling Engine to Replace Oil Pan - 1st timer - edit: 1 More Question!

most of the stamped steel pans were chevy truck part numbers. some can be succesfully welded. even from chevy they are pricey.<br /> the biggest diffence in most of them was the depth of the oil pan sump.<br /> easy to check with a tape measure.
 

Haut Medoc

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Re: Pulling Engine to Replace Oil Pan - 1st timer - edit: 1 More Question!

Couln't you find something out of a salvage yard?.....JK
 
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