quick glassing question

jbcurt00

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Re: quick glassing question

The plywood will have CSM on it prior to laying it, correct?

Butt the seams, on a CSM wrapped backer of ply, and PB the joint together. Fill the seam w/ PB & smooth. The seam doesn't require an extra layer of glass, but it would be cheap insurance & wouldn't cost much in time, materials or resin.

It may require some extra prep to feather the seam tape's edges, sanding or fairing w/ microballon filler (easy to sand, for NON-structural applications). Depending on what you're deck finish is going to be will dictate how far to go w/ smoothing the deck seams.
 

KCKracker

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Re: quick glassing question

ok i figured to PB them but I asked anyways since I seem to be frequently wrong and confused :lol:
 

jbcurt00

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Re: quick glassing question

No dumb questions, ask as many as you can think of...... Occasionally, someone may answer 1 you had not yet thought to ask...

Some marine suppliers in the west treat their customers like their shop is the only game in town & you should feel honored to be allowed to buy them. There may be another WM elsewhere near you that may be more helpful.
 

KCKracker

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Re: quick glassing question

the sucky part was i found one 30 minutes from me, they dont have ****, but the one an hour away has everything :facepalm: my luck LOL
 

KCKracker

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Re: quick glassing question

ok well im going out to start sanding my gunwales and getting ready for a big shopping trip tomorrow
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: quick glassing question

so another question, where my deck sheets of plywood meet, do i glass that seam before i glass the whole floor? if so what do you recommend for the seams? anything special?

You dont need to glass the seam of a multi-part deck before or after.

Well I guess you can .. but your going to have lumps in your deck from the extra glass .. or you will have to bevel the wood down to make sure the build up of glass does not show on your final layers.

Its all about Dry fitting. Dry fit the deck .. pre-drill any screws that you might consider to help in your installation. After the deck is Down then you can putty all the gaps and open voids/screw holes/miss-cuts etc.

It really does not matter what you use. Bondo or a cabosil mix if your going to be glassing it over in the end.

The surface that you want to end up with is a smooth platform for your lam(s).

Hope this helps.

YD.
 

KCKracker

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Re: quick glassing question

what is the difference in epoxy resin vs poly other then the wax? is epoxy better? would it be better to use since i want to get rid of my carpet and put down a epoxy no-skid coating when the floor is done?
 

ondarvr

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Re: quick glassing question

Not sure what epoxy non skid you're thinking of, but epoxies don't typically hold up well to UV light, they tend to turn yellow and chalk rather quickly when used outdoors.
 

KCKracker

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Re: quick glassing question

i have read about epoxies with a non skid surface. is this not true? if not whats a good coating other then truck bed liner from wally world everyone keeps telling me to use. i have seen that stuff flake off on many boats and keep getting told to get epoxy and roll it on..
 

jbcurt00

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Re: quick glassing question

i have read about epoxies with a non skid surface. is this not true? if not whats a good coating other then truck bed liner from wally world everyone keeps telling me to use. i have seen that stuff flake off on many boats and keep getting told to get epoxy and roll it on..

Who is that ^^^? Lets spend a minute & get started on getting the pre-deck work done.

Google
 

KCKracker

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Re: quick glassing question

the deck stuff will be picked up tomorrow and filleted and tabbed by the time i hit the sack tomorrow night as i went back to polyester resin due to cost so i might as well grab my deck coating at the same time.
 

zool

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Re: quick glassing question

The epoxy with non skid that "everyone is telling you to use" is most likeky an epoxy paint with a non skid additive.

You can use Awlgrip with griptex instead for a durable deck...
 

jbcurt00

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Re: quick glassing question

Well, then buy something. Perhaps it will perform satisfactorily.

Or become informed & find out what pro's & con's come w/ the available choices. That isn't a 3 min process/decision.

Your deck coating thread got the same reply from Jig that I just gave you:

If you want 1 good answer of a good deck coating ^^^ that's it

There are many choices available but there are too many to debate the pro's & con's in a few minutes.
 

jbcurt00

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Re: quick glassing question

the deck stuff will be picked up tomorrow and filleted and tabbed by the time i hit the sack tomorrow night as i went back to polyester resin due to cost so i might as well grab my deck coating at the same time.

If that's the case, I'd like to see a more recent pix then this:
B22E1922-D36F-4984-B185-95D98B154ED2-161-0000001497327CB9_zps88622b57.jpg


Also it'd be nice to have a place that's got a put back plan listed. Where the details of the resto could be followed......... And referenced.

About time to start another thread, pretty far from a 'quick' glassing question.....
 

ondarvr

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Re: quick glassing question

Just use gel coat as the non skid surface, it holds up about the best.
 

KCKracker

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Re: quick glassing question

thank you ondarvr i will be heading to steves again in the morning to grab the 1708, thank you again!

jbcurt it appears that by asking that i have somehow offended you
 

jbcurt00

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Re: quick glassing question

No, you misunderstood. There is quite a bit to do below decks on a boat that typically looks like this at the beginning of demo:
B22E1922-D36F-4984-B185-95D98B154ED2-161-0000001497327CB9_zps88622b57.jpg


Stringers to fab, install & glass IF the hull's already been ground, prepped & cleaned.

Based on the details in this thread and the discussion about epoxy/poly 1708/CSM & 8oz cloth, it seems as though the below deck put back work has yet to begin.

In the absence of pix, it appeared as though that work hasn't been done. If that work hasn't yet been done, getting a new deck installed & tabbed to the hull sounds like a monumental challenge to accomplish in 1 day after spending several hours buying the materials, you posted it was an hour each way, right? And after any other needed below deck work.

If I missed the check to confirm the transom was sound, sorry, but has that been confirmed? Replacement seems unlikely for the same reasons I mentioned for the below deck work.

If all the other below deck work has been done, and the transom has been checked, great. Proceed post haste putting down the deck. How will it be attached to the stringers? PB or PL & screws? What kind of screws? How will the screw holes be prepped? Sealed? PB over the holes once the screws are driven & countersunk?

If all that other work has not been completed, that's unfortunate. A lot of money & time will have been wasted, and that's not the worst of it. It will give anyone that boards your boat a false confidence that the boat is safe & sound, when it quite possibly is not. And THAT's the only motivation for anything I've posted here, your other threads & elsewhere on iboats.

As for measuring, I have no need or want to, and quite frankly I'm not sure what caused you to suggest that was a motivating factor, but it is childish & petulant.

Best of luck w/ your project,

Boat & boat resto safely
 

KCKracker

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Re: quick glassing question

lol that pic is 2 months old, if i misunderstood my apologies, i have a build thread & this aint it, stringers etc have all been redone, i am just trying to figure out what to do ON the deck now after im done, i keep getting conflicting info for deck coating and all i want is to be done with carpet due to fishing hooks snagging all the time and dont want some coating that's going to peel or flake off :)
 

jbcurt00

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Re: quick glassing question

You now have 3 good alternatives:

Gelcoat (you might use that elsewhere on a glass build)

Awlgrip (also might be used elsewhere)

Durabak

Info is available online, in the iboat's resto threads & I'm sure some of the other folks you've been talking to have heard of them.

Use Steve as a resource when you get your glassing supplies, ask him. He may even have some hands on tips he can show you.

Price them all delivered to you ($ for gas if you drive 2hrs round trip to pick it up). Look them up & read/study the pro's & con's.

You've already done that for the bedliner. Someone recommended it, you decided for yourself it wasn't an option you would consider. That's a good decision, IMHO, and I said so above. Do the same for those 3 ^^^.

I can't decide for you, because then it becomes the boat I think it should/can be. Not the boat you want & is suited to how you'll use it. More importantly, it isn't my money nor my time. You need to pick 1 that is with in your means to buy & install. From here on, the details are important, and mistakes can be even more costly in time & materials. So don't rush the processes (glassing & etc), don't rush the decisions, and don't change directions so quickly. That's how things get missed & mistakes are made.

An A to Z plan helps organize the work & the work flow. When you get to C & for whatever reason, you can't proceed, knowing what D, E & F are helps you roll into the next thing (if possible) or skip ahead a few & do G while you wait to re-start at step C. But if you don't know what C, D, E & F are, you can't be sure that G won't cause you more work when you fall back to C.

Most try to have small parts & pieces that need glasswork on stand by. When you finish a task & have a little resin left over, you can do a small task w/ it & not waste quite as much. Or when you run short, you can mix up more knowing that you can safely make plenty, so that when that job is done, you have just a bit for another small task, rather then again running the risk of running out. Perhaps even have some cut up CSM & cabosil waiting to make PB out of the 'extra' resin when you get done w/ the glassing task you're working on.

I can only provide the info or hopefully access to it.

My personal preference would be Durabak. But that's based on my background & it fits what I think works best for my situation. This thread pushes the boundaries of anti-skid. It might also be possible w/ the other 2 finishes. This is another anti-skid thread and is possible w/ the other 2 choices.

Again boat resto & boat safely,
 

KCKracker

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Re: quick glassing question

i really dont understande the difference between gelcoat and fiberglass, but im reading that build thread you pasted, cool non skid
 
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