Rehabbing my trailer...

[JASinIL2006]

My trailer is in need of new carpet for the bunks (and maybe new wood as well), and the carpeted boards that cover the wheel wells are in pretty bad shape and need to be replaced. I think those repairs will be fairly straightforward. I'll get some new bunk carpet and either stainless steel or monel staples, in addition to carpet adhesive, and replace the bunks and the carpet.

In addition to those issues, there are also quite a few places where the paint was compromised and spots of surface rust have developed. I figure I might as well clean those up and repaint the trailer as long as I have the boat blocked up.

In terms of the rust, I plan to grind/sand the rusty spots, paint with rust inhibiting primer and then topcoat the entire trailer. My brother suggested sandblasting the frame, but I don't have that equipment, nor do I know anyone who does.

As long as I'm doing this, can you think of any other work I should consider doing? Any tips on any of the work I've mentioned above? I'm pretty handy, but this is the first trailer I've worked (besides installing my electric brakes last year). It's a single axle, torsion bar trailer with fully electric brakes, used exclusively in fresh water.


Thanks!

Jim

 

[agallant80]

Re: Rehabbing my trailer...

I have heard that roofing nails hold up well for bunk carpet. As for other things I would inspect the electrical system and breaks while you have the trailer in maintance mode.

 

[hotrod53]

Re: Rehabbing my trailer...

I replaced the bunks on my trailer a few years ago. You can buy bunk carpet to length at Gander Mountain or Ov3rtons. You can go to Lowes and buy stainless steel staples when you are buying your new bunk boards. I used the stainless staples and it worked out well. Carpeting the bunks is nothing different than wrapping a Christmas present.

You may want to consider re-doing your wheel seals and bearings while it's apart, that and cleaning up any ground wires.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: Rehabbing my trailer...

..............and breaks .........

Make sure you check out the BRAKES too... lol ... couldn't resist

A wire brush on an angle grinder (USE SAFETY GLASSES) works wonders on surface rust... be sure to thoroughly clean, scuff, and wipe down the whole trailer with denatured alcohol or similar before painting

masking tape over and vin or other labels, just take all the lights n anything else you don't want painted off first.

I need to do the wheel wells n steps on my 30' trailer and I've decided to use thin steel diamond plate instead of carpet n wood. I plan to weld but you could install w screws or rivets just as well...... steel doesn't rot... at least not any faster than the rest of the trailer.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Re: Rehabbing my trailer...

I thought about something more durable for the inside of the wheel wells, but I wasn't sure if those carpeted boards serve a purpose... Maybe to cushion against bumps to the hull when loading the boat on the trailer.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: Rehabbing my trailer...

the hull SHOULDN'T touch em

 

[JASinIL2006]

Re: Rehabbing my trailer...

the hull SHOULDN'T touch em

Yeah, I figured... the truth is, though, that I've always been on my boat when I loaded it, so I've never seen if the hull even gets close to the wheel wells. (Especially during one of my less graceful retrievals...)

 

[JASinIL2006]

Re: Rehabbing my trailer...

Another thing... do folks generally use any sort of adhesive when recarpeting the bunks, or just staples/nails?

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: Rehabbing my trailer...

Carpet glue from Home Depot

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: Rehabbing my trailer...

Ya know, you do make a good point about the boat hitting the fender tho.... I'm not concerned myself BUT a piece of 2x2 wrapped in carpet would make a decent bumper if you did choose to go with steel and felt the need.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Re: Rehabbing my trailer...

There's an idea! I would like to get rid of wood-and-carpet wheel well covers. One was in such bad shape that it fell off while driving last year; luckily it was on a less-traveled dirt road and it didn't damage the tire or the boat when it fell off. The carpet nicely concealed how badly the wood had deteriorated.

I think I will go with something more durable... Would aluminum plate be strong enough? Especially if it was reinforced with the carpeted wood bars?

Jim

 

[Fleetwin]

Re: Rehabbing my trailer...

There's an idea! I would like to get rid of wood-and-carpet wheel well covers. One was in such bad shape that it fell off while driving last year; luckily it was on a less-traveled dirt road and it didn't damage the tire or the boat when it fell off. The carpet nicely concealed how badly the wood had deteriorated.

I think I will go with something more durable... Would aluminum plate be strong enough? Especially if it was reinforced with the carpeted wood bars?

Jim

I don't know how old your rig is but the the wood lasted since new. I wouldn't go as drastic as aluminum. Just paint the wood both sides before you carpet it. It surely wasn't painted before.

I would consider rewiring the trailer while you have it apart. Rewire kits are relatively cheap. If your lights work OK, keep them. If not, consider going LED. Once I went LED I never looked back.

 

[gm280]

Re: Rehabbing my trailer...

I would stay with the carpeted wheel wells as well. And like stated previously, paint all sides of the wood before carpeting them. They will last a very long time and be much easier and cheaper to do then aluminum. I am presently doing my trailer. But I completely changed a lot of support brackets and installed front and back side steps too. So once the weather gets warm enough to prime, that will be my next step... I looked over the entire trailer while the boat was off and found some suspect weld joints that I re-welded. I even found a cracked main tongue too and replace the entire tongue with a more beefier 3" x 3" x 1/4" box metal. I am also going LEDs. They are very bright and waterproof.

 

[I`mNotMe]

Re: Rehabbing my trailer...

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If planning to sell your trailer < 3 years, simply wire brush / sand down the rust spots, apply some primer for steel surface, then apply rust paint via small roller. And, use hand brush jabs for hard to get corners and edges. Very simple (and low cost) paint job - to leave and use it.

If planning to keep your trailer > 3 years, I'd highly recommend sand blasting (instead of wire brush or power sander) the existing rust out as well. If you plan other future sand blasting jobs before you die, do investigate buying your own sand blasting machine. They can be bought locally or across the internet. Do shop around because selling prices do dramatically vary. If wondering, I bought a little sand blaster system 15 years ago and I still use it today. It's a little portable thing (I use with my large portable air compressor) but it does the little jobs with ease. And works great for medium / large jobs - if I "pace myself". re: Do a little bit each weekend and in 4-6 weeks, medium / large jobs are all done. It appears something like: http://www.machinemart.co.uk/images/library/product/medium/00/000510125.jpg?4

If "refreshing" to keep trailer for many years, I'd recommend new LED lighting and new Brake wiring using thick 10 gauge wiring in a STAR configuration. For example: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w251/Spike99-Pictures/Trailer wiring/Brakewiring-Star.jpg

And, install wiring inside plastic PEX piping (on outside of frame) instead of inside the frame tubes - where wires rub and mice love to build nests. re: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w251/Spike99-Pictures/Boat Pictures/100_2449.jpg Hallow steel frame rails + mice nests + wiring + time = very bad combination. Especially if trailer is parked in grass / bush areas.

For bunk board replacements, simply buy new 2x4 boards (or 2x6 boards - which ever it is now), sand them down (to remove natural outer surface dirt layer), apply 2 x coats of stain, let dry, then apply rug over the stained boards. If using staples, do buy a power stapler tool as well. I bought a power air stapler (3/8" Crown) last fall (to do my boat's bunks) and it was amazing. re: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w251/Spike99-Pictures/Trailer wiring/Brakewiring-Star.jpg Lesson learned: Should have bought power stapler (for my air compressor) years ago.

Also consider trailer re-sell value as well. One can "sink" lots of dollars into a boat trailer. Get it so perfect, one can eat off its frame / fenders. But when one sells their trailer, how much "return on the dollar" will then get? Thus, why I don't over cosmetic improve my boat trailer. It might get wire brush a hand painting every 5 years. It's yet to see what my sand blaster looks like. LOL!!

Hope this helps...

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: Rehabbing my trailer...

There's an idea! I would like to get rid of wood-and-carpet wheel well covers. One was in such bad shape that it fell off while driving last year; luckily it was on a less-traveled dirt road and it didn't damage the tire or the boat when it fell off. The carpet nicely concealed how badly the wood had deteriorated.

I think I will go with something more durable... Would aluminum plate be strong enough? Especially if it was reinforced with the carpeted wood bars?

Jim

the only purpose of that stuff is to look pretty and to reduce road the crap being thrown at the boat..... strength is not an issue so aluminum would work great... my reason to choose steel was that it would be easier to cut and is lower maintenance.... Also I can weld it to the trailer and I would avoid the dissimilar metals corrosion issue.
If I had an aluminum trailer I would go w aluminum plate

 

[gm280]

Re: Rehabbing my trailer...

Smoke, that is a great idea IF he has some other means to make sure his boat isn't going to contact the wheel well covering. Not knowing how he has his trailer setup, if there is any change for the boat to contact the wheel well, a carpeted wood wheel well would be a better choice. Of course this is solely my opinion, and we all know about opinions...:facepalm:

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: Rehabbing my trailer...

MY opinion is that if the boat can contact the fender then the trailer is in the water WAY too deep ... as you said tho... opinions is the devil Bobby Bourcher (boo-shay)

 

[I`mNotMe]

Re: Rehabbing my trailer...

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If trailer is 15+ years old, I'd also replace its leaf spring packs as well. Simply remove a leaf spring pack, take to one's local trailer parts store and use old part as a pattern - to ensure correct leaf spring width, length and arch is bought. Within trailer suspension industry, many say to replace leaf springs that are 15+ years old. After 15+ years, their steel starts to becomes brittle and snaps - instead of flexing. Thus, do replace this low cost item (based on trailer age). And when replacing, replace its hangers and U-Bolts as well.

Before buying new leaf spring packs, I'd also Scale Weight the average loaded trailer and buy +2 sizes up. For example: If trailer Scale Weight at 3,180 lbs, I'd buy 3,600 lbs leaf spring replacements (instead of 3,200 lbs packs). Going +2 sizes up allows buffer for double railway tracks and/or extra deep road bumps. Always Scale Weight with average loaded trailer - before deciding leaf spring sizing.

If the tire is currently rubbing the inner fender's top under surface now, perhaps replacing existing leaf spring packs with more arch shape will help? For example, instead of going with factory 3" arch, go with 4" arch instead. Or if you want more fender gap (re: 2" inches), simply re-postion the new leaf spring packs on TOP of the axle. Thus, creating 2.5-3" more inner fender clearance. If wondering, I re-postioned the axle under my boat trailer and love it. Its motor is now higher off the ground and trailer is better aligned with my Tow Vehicle. And when unload boat, the boat is now within deeper water as well. Win-win-win on many different fronts.

Hope these ideas help in your trailer rebuild as well…

 

[JASinIL2006]

Re: Rehabbing my trailer...

Thanks for the idea, but my trailer has torsion spring axles. No leaf springs to change!

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Rehabbing my trailer...

Monel staples if you can find them are a great choice, and should last longer then stainless. Stain-proof, rather then stain-less

Glued & stapled should be very long lasting.

Hey, its nice to see the trailer getting some attention too, but any changes this off-season for the Larson?

How's it feel to be in the 'Successful fiberglass rehab' section at the iboats dry dock?