Repairing stringer

[nemo2011]

Re: Repairing stringer

Motor mount ripped out.Removing drive unit and some motor prep. for removal

 

[nemo2011]

Re: Repairing stringer

The motor is already out ,just havent posted the pictures yet hope to post them in the AM.
I have a question about grinding out the old foberglass that was at the bottom of the stringer. Should this be ground down too flush with the hull or can it be just cleaned up sanded and gone over top with new glass?

 

[nemo2011]

Re: Repairing stringer

Yeah, but the GOOD NEWS is I have seen a LOT worse. Keep going and keep the pics comin. When you planning on pulling the motor?

The motor is already out ,just havent posted the pictures yet hope to post them in the AM.

 

[rickryder]

Re: Repairing stringer

The motor is already out ,just havent posted the pictures yet hope to post them in the AM.
I have a question about grinding out the old foberglass that was at the bottom of the stringer. Should this be ground down too flush with the hull or can it be just cleaned up sanded and gone over top with new glass?

Best is to sand the hull clean... makes a better bond IMO and easier to lay fiberglass on a smooth surface then one with bumps.

I used a 4 1/2 " angle grinder with a diamond blade to cut the old glass out and the same grinder with a 36 grit sanding disc to make it smooth.
Look at my resto thread second set of pics on page 2 and you'll see how far I sanded down. When you sand the hull go out about 8" on either side of your stringers.

BTW hows your transom look?

 

[tomtnwlkrs]

Re: Repairing stringer

I tearing my boat apart right now. I thought my transom was a solid as new. Once I pulled the top cap off I realized the transom was solid but soaking wet. it was only a matter of time. I would have replaced stringers only to have a soft transom in a year. I have read on this website that if the stringers are shot, then the transom probably is as well. Good luck!!

 

[nemo2011]

Re: Repairing stringer

Best is to sand the hull clean... makes a better bond IMO and easier to lay fiberglass on a smooth surface then one with bumps.

I used a 4 1/2 " angle grinder with a diamond blade to cut the old glass out and the same grinder with a 36 grit sanding disk to make it smooth.
Look at my resto thread second set of pics on page 2 and you'll see how far I sanded down. When you sand the hull go out about 8" on either side of your stringers.

BTW hows your transom look?

The weather here has been kinda crappy so have not got around too drilling test holes in the transom yet.and besides wife has me busy cleaning up the yard :-(
What did that diamond blade set you back? I have a 4" Makita angle grinder and have been using just steel cutoff blades and switching to masonary blade! Havent got around too using the sanding disk yet!
That diamond saw kick up as much dust(or less)

 

[nemo2011]

Re: Repairing stringer

Finally got around to removing the motor(had fun with this)

 

[nemo2011]

Re: Repairing stringer

After motor was removed
OK,OK I know too many pictures but I'm on a roll!!!!

 

[nemo2011]

Re: Repairing stringer

Closeups of starboard stringer and transom

 

[nemo2011]

Re: Repairing stringer

All visible rot removed
Prepared starboard stringer for splicing(should be a interesting splice)
If anyone sees anything please hollar!!
BTW the rear 3/4" bulkhead was also floating +-1/4"

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Repairing stringer

If the MM's are that bad I'd bet a Nickel to a Hole in a Donut the transom is trash too! Do some 3/8 inch drill testing to make sure and don't be surprised if you get Black Wet Mush shavings.

 

[rickryder]

Re: Repairing stringer

The weather here has been kinda crappy so have not got around too drilling test holes in the transom yet.and besides wife has me busy cleaning up the yard :-(
What did that diamond blade set you back? I have a 4" Makita angle grinder and have been using just steel cutoff blades and switching to masonary blade! Havent got around too using the sanding disk yet!
That diamond saw kick up as much dust(or less)

The blade is about $15 (link) http://www.google.com/products/cata...log_result&ct=image&resnum=3&ved=0CDgQ8gIwAg#

I think its less dust. I also have a 36" drum fan sucking the dust out when I'm grinding or cutting.

 

[nemo2011]

Re: Repairing stringer

I am about too drill some test holes in my transom as a lot of you suggested.
Should I start near the bottom say 2"of the floor and drill every how many inches (vertical&horizontal)
or just keep drilling till I find good wood? would appreciate comments from those that have done this before!

 

[rickryder]

Re: Repairing stringer

Start low about the 2" and go up about 6" and check again.... I would go 6-8" left and right to see what you find. Good Luck I hope you hit dry good wood!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Repairing stringer

Yep ^^^^^ That about covers it

 

[nemo2011]

Re: Repairing stringer

Well I haven't been on for a while but weather has been the pits!anyway some good news some bad too report!
Good news is that I found someone to repair my aluminum Gas tank I thought just too weld in a patch at the front where corrosion had eaten a few spots through. but was advised to replace the whole bottom of the tank and as the price was reasonable I went ahead with this. should be ready in a few weeks as they are really busy (these guys also build aluminum boats)

on the not so good side I got into the boat to-day and drilled some exploratory holes in the transom and while I was at it drilled some in the port stringer and motor mount.

The holes 2"up on the transom from the hull bottom revealed dark damp wood on the starboard side and about the same but not quite so dark on port side. moving up too 6 and 12"the wood was dark for possibly the first 1/2"then it was dry this held true for both sides.

My transom is a 3 piece construction with the middle part measuring approx 30"X 24"high and this part looks like it is approx.1/2"thicker a rough measurement through the bilge drain hole is approx 2-1/2"
I drilled a couple of test holes on the starboard side and I'm at a loss as too what they used tests were "Dry" color was mahogany (anyone see this before )

The holes in the stringer and motor mount although slightly damp were solid but I think I will remove the fiberglass skin and start at the transom and work my way to wards the bow till I hit good wood!
I am posting some pictures to have a look so I would appreciate comments!

 

[nemo2011]

Re: Repairing stringer

Missed stringer and Motor mount pics

 

[jonesg]

Re: Repairing stringer

Take a pinch of drill chips and squeeze them between 2 fingers, if you can get moisture from the chips the wood is no good.
You're doing a good job so far.

 

[nemo2011]

Re: Repairing stringer

Take a pinch of drill chips and squeeze them between 2 fingers, if you can get moisture from the chips the wood is no good.
You're doing a good job so far.

Thanks, I didn't do that but will tomorrow do you have a opinion on that wood on either side , on the transom where the stringers join? the wood seems really solid and dry could it possibly be composite
also is there anywhere I can look for instructions on removing the gimbal housing unit

 

[jonesg]

Re: Repairing stringer

The other forum for the inboard engine and outdrives stuff.
http://forums.iboats.com/forumdisplay.php?f=21

Its highly unlikely to have composite outter panels in the transom, the middle panel yes,
rot always starts in the middle around the outdrive hole or drain.
Some guys have done the middle section with pourable composite.
Its usually easier/faster to remove the whole thing than pick and peck at sections.