Repairing stringer

nemo2011

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 15, 2011
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Re: Repairing stringer

Well got started on the dreaded grinding! not too itchy yet and just about done except for a few small hard to get at spots.
Here are some pictures to show where I'm at!
 

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nemo2011

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 15, 2011
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157
Re: Repairing stringer

Well I decided to just install a piece of new 1/2" ply and just to that portion that was bad I know a lot of you will say "why not replace the whole transom"well that just didn't make no sense to me . why rip out perfectly good wood!!
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so any way I reinforced the bottom of the transom with some penetrating epoxy and filled the holes with 3m 5200 and laminated a new piece of 1/2"transom with pl premium.
Clamped it all together and waiting for it to set up then I will first fiberglass the transom area before proceeding with stringers,mounts ,bulkheads etc.
IMG_3648.jpg
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rickryder

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Jun 24, 2010
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Re: Repairing stringer

That looks all to familiar :D Life in the tent! It looks like your making some progress there.
In your first pic above I see a bunch of gouges and knot holes.... I would mix up some peanut butter (thickened resin with cabosol and milled fibers) and fill them up so you don't have any voids in your glass work. Air bubbles on the transom can lead to glass delimitation and possible water infiltration=rotting.... just a heads up :)
 

nemo2011

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Feb 15, 2011
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157
Re: Repairing stringer

That looks all to familiar :D Life in the tent! It looks like your making some progress there.
In your first pic above I see a bunch of gouges and knot holes.... I would mix up some peanut butter (thickened resin with cabosol and milled fibers) and fill them up so you don't have any voids in your glass work. Air bubbles on the transom can lead to glass delimitation and possible water infiltration=rotting.... just a heads up :)

thanks Rick!
I have some feather-rite lightweight auto body filler that I was going to use to make my radius at all 90 deg corners and I thought I would use this instead of going with peanut butter. What are your thoughts on this?
 

rickryder

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Re: Repairing stringer

Never worked with that body filler.... The question... how well will it adhere to wood? is it waterproof? I know that PB is proven to work. Just food for thought ;)
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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Re: Repairing stringer

CAN you use it, Yep! Will it stick? yep. Is it waterproof. Nope. Does it matter. Prolly Not. If you Glass it in Good like you should then it will outlast your usage of the boat but.... Should you use it? Prolly Not. Like the can says AUTO Filler. Rick's advice is Sound. Mix up some PB to do your Filleting. Tried and Proven! Guaranteed NOT to absorb water. Even the Next owner won't have to worry.
 

nemo2011

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Re: Repairing stringer

thanks guys!
Although I have the featherrite already bought I am going to return it and go with proven PB.
 

nemo2011

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Re: Repairing stringer

OK the filling with PB is done and sanded flat,I applied 1.5 Oz tabbing to the transom edges.i am going to apply two coats of 1708 biax over the whole area. 2nd one overlapping the first by 1.5".
as far as applying the 1708, can I wet out the transom then stick the 1708 to this dry . or is it better to wet out both the transom and the biax then apply and brush and Tabb in place?
As I'm working by myself it would be a lot easier to apply dry biax to the whetted transom and then tap all the resin in!
Any thoughts would be appreciated!
 

rickryder

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Jun 24, 2010
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Re: Repairing stringer

I laid most of my biax dry on wet wood. I used a roller and worked my way upward. The biax is so much nicer to work with than csm.
 

Woodonglass

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25,929
Re: Repairing stringer

Yep, Just wet out the transom then lay the biax and roll it. If you don't have one of these I would get one.Or you can make one from 1" and 1/2" fender washers and a paint roller handle. Keep some acetone handy to rinse it with ALOT!!!!!
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Add additonal resin as needed. I would advise you to tab it 4 and 8 " though. You want that transom strong as HE**. Don't skimp here!!!
 

nemo2011

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Re: Repairing stringer

thank you guys!
sets my mind at ease! I only ground out about 5"around my middle transom I hope this is enough!!
I'll post some pictures when this is done and I start on stringers and bulkhead.
 

nemo2011

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Re: Repairing stringer

Tabbed in with 1.Oz csm, that went well!!

IMG_3651.jpg

my makeshift workstation!!

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OK I've got the first coat of 1708 biax
done
IMG_3654.jpg


applied second coat of 1708 biax tonight, but would you believe I used unwaxed resin and as this is my final coat I should have used "Waxed"

"question"can i just apply a coat of waxed on top of the unwaxed resin that i have and then paint?
IMG_3655.jpg
 

rickryder

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Jun 24, 2010
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Re: Repairing stringer

Nice Job! You can glass! :D A thin coat of waxed and you'll be good to go.
 

nemo2011

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 15, 2011
Messages
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Re: Repairing stringer

Thanks fellas
well it looks like maybe it's no big deal to use waxed or unwaxed!!
I do know that when i used unwaxed, let it sit overnight to cure and somewhere I read that it does not cure to a hard Finnish.
But in my case the glass did not feel tacky at all so kinda leaning to-wards just leaving and painting !
either way I'm sure will be fine!:)
I do have a question about whether the stringers should be attached to the transom or left floating?
when I removed the stringer from the port side it was just tacked to the transom at top of stringer with a 2-1/2"nail(plus fiberglass of course):rolleyes:
 

ondarvr

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Apr 6, 2005
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11,527
Re: Repairing stringer

Thanks fellas
I do have a question about whether the stringers should be attached to the transom or left floating?
when I removed the stringer from the port side it was just tacked to the transom at top of stringer with a 2-1/2"nail(plus fiberglass of course):rolleyes:


It will make no difference in how you make the wood to wood connection because the glass is carrying the load.
 

nemo2011

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Feb 15, 2011
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157
Re: Repairing stringer

It will make no difference in how you make the wood to wood connection because the glass is carrying the load.


thanks ondarvr I guess I should have thought my question through a bit more. So here is another one! On stringers I was going to go first with peanut butter then 3"of 1.5 oz.csm 6"of 1708 biax , 9"of 1708 biax (all both sides)
and do you guys think the motor mount area should be beefed up more?::redface:
 

rickryder

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Jun 24, 2010
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Re: Repairing stringer

That was pretty much my layup schedule... Motor mounts wouldn't hurt to be a little heavier,alternate csm and biax. I think the 1708 has 3/4 csm as backing so an additional 1.5 between would help some.
 
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