Restoration of my 1965 Glasspar Avolon

wishboneZ51

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
135
Re: Restoration of my 1965 Glasspar Avolon

EZMOBEE,

Thanks for youre ncouragment, I was reading all of the other threads in the trailer forum to get a better idea to what options I had on the trailer.

Yeah it is pretty weird how the angle on those bunks fit the shape of the hull. I copied the height and measurements from the gearing that was on the trailer previously. Once the hull was back on I slapped my 4' level and whent to town doing final adjustments to get it square and the weight evenly distributed between the rollers and bunks. Now if I can only find some descent rims for those brand new tires!:D
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: Restoration of my 1965 Glasspar Avolon

Keep up the Good Work. It is really looking Good. I can't wait to see the color go on!

I'm just sayin...:D
 

wishboneZ51

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
135
Re: Restoration of my 1965 Glasspar Avolon

Thank you kind sir. My wife is dying to see the blue on the boat. Got to make sure the surface is flawless or else the dark color will show every flaw. May need more then 5 coats for sure, we will have to see.
 

wishboneZ51

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
135
Re: Restoration of my 1965 Glasspar Avalon QUESTION

Re: Restoration of my 1965 Glasspar Avalon QUESTION

Ok, So I have a few question for the pro's here.

My transom is oh 50 years old! Now the transom has NO ROT and is solid. I drilled test holes throughout the entire bottom from the lowest point up past the waterline. The shavings are nice and light tan and dry!

Ok, so now that I am getting close to putting my baby back together I am having concerns about it holding up to its job against the motor. I dont know why but I am just concerned because it is so old, would it be weaker then todays wood.

So what would you do in this scenario?

Your boat was manufactured with a HP rating of 80 back in 1965

You will be using this boat for fishing, recreation, knee boarding, skiing, tubing, and all out fun with 6 people in the boat!

You got a smoken deal on a 1986 Evinrude 110HP that was checked out by two very good friends of mine that are both marine mechanics that say you have two thumbs up for under $300 worth of work.

The weight difference from what I have done research on is from 265-298 depending upon motor and manufacture back in late 60's. To the new motor weight of 306 lbs.

The older motors do not have P tilt and trim, my new motor does.

So + or - 40 lbs or so of weight difference.

Can I beef up the transom some, if so, what do I need to do? Can we add more layers of wood against the transom there? If I were to replace the transom now, just how much of a difference would there be sense my current transom is just fine?

Please help guy's I would like to move forward but need guidence!
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: Restoration of my 1965 Glasspar Avalon QUESTION

Re: Restoration of my 1965 Glasspar Avalon QUESTION

Ordinarily....I'd say replace it just cuz. However I went back and looked at your pictures from early on in the thread and it really does look to be in excellent condition.

I do not think that boat is up to handling an '86 110. That is an awesome motor made after the ratings change over so it has quite a bit more power than even the 80 the boat was rated for. A lot more goes into a boat's HP rating than just weight and/or transom strength. I would not personally hang anything bigger than a 3 cylinder on that boat. A V4 with TnT is going to be too heavy and the power too much for a boat with a large closed bow and no weight in the front. My 2 cents.
 

wishboneZ51

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
135
Re: Restoration of my 1965 Glasspar Avolon

Well there are some ways that I can add weight to the bow for sure. I was thinking really hard and there were a couple of boats made by Glasspar that had huge motors on them to include the G3 which is much smaller then my boat and is a closed bow. It had a 115hp mtor stack 6 on the back, the other I cannot remember the name of it but it had an I/O and it has a closed bow.

I respect your opinion and I know that after everything is said and done what I descide to do is wight on my shoulders.

There are a lot of boats out there that are built over done to make a sweet ride and built with quatlity. They have been doing that in vehicles for years, and I know they are different but law of physics are still present. Putting a huge V8 in a car that was designed for a super small 4 cylinder is definately pushing the envilope in design and safety.
 

wishboneZ51

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
135
Re: Restoration of my 1965 Glasspar Avolon

Yes we know this car quit well in the car club. They do cery well stock in the skid pad at Nutenburg. I have a friend tht pretty much did the same thing with their Mazda R8 and slapped a LS2 motor in it. It is scary enough to make you dump rabbit turds. My car is fast enough at 500hp, which can push the limits to most drivers on the regular streets.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: Restoration of my 1965 Glasspar Avolon

Hey WB,

TWO things.

One. My boat is almost a twin to yours and rated the same. NO way on GODS blue water would I EVER think of putting that big a motor on 1960 engineering. :eek::(

TWO. Just an FYI, If you put an Oversized motor on your boat, and you are pulled over by the Lake Patrol for ANY reason and they check it, You will NOT like the FINE and Penalties you will suffer. Also, if you are involved in a boating accident with another boat, EVEN IF THEY ARE AT FAULT, Their insurance and YOUR insurance WILL NOT PAY A DIME for the damages and you can an probably will be sued for Civil damages.

Now, ask yourself, is it worth it??

I'm just sayin...:D
 

wishboneZ51

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
135
Re: Restoration of my 1965 Glasspar Avolon

Hey WB,

TWO things.

One. My boat is almost a twin to yours and rated the same. NO way on GODS blue water would I EVER think of putting that big a motor on 1960 engineering. :eek::(

TWO. Just an FYI, If you put an Oversized motor on your boat, and you are pulled over by the Lake Patrol for ANY reason and they check it, You will NOT like the FINE and Penalties you will suffer. Also, if you are involved in a boating accident with another boat, EVEN IF THEY ARE AT FAULT, Their insurance and YOUR insurance WILL NOT PAY A DIME for the damages and you can an probably will be sued for Civil damages.

Now, ask yourself, is it worth it??

I'm just sayin...:D

Thank you for your comments WoodonGlass,

I am very well aware of the laws due to serving 8 years on Active Duty in the Coast Guard. This boat does not have an Official Coast Guard rated sticker with the size, weight limits, and amount of people it can hold. I can go through my local Wildlife association which handles all boat lisences and get the boat certified for this motor. I would have to have it go through lisensing and they would go through a check off list. If you go by the Coast Guard Rules for judging HP ratings on a Hull. My boat as well as your boat is well within the HP ratings and that is what the Wildlife Center is going to base 90% of the final call on those numbers. The other part is going to be the construction and physical appearence.

Now my local Marina and friends have gone through this process a number of times and when I went down there for lunch we discussed this as the main topic of discussion.

So here is what I am going to do. I am going to go down the the Wildlife center again and take the pictures of both and get their final approval before proceeding.

I do everything legal and in my 15 years as a Captain Paramedic in the Fire Department I have seen and been on every incident possable. I will make sure the boat can and will be liscensed to use the motor as well as my insurance on the boat.


Here is the Coast Guard Rules:

2 X Length X Beam) - 90 = rated horsepower


(2 x 16'' Length x 6.5' Beam) - 90 = 118 HP

WoodonGlass,

I can understand how you would never put a motor like this on your boat and respect your opinion.

Could you see my point of view and give me some unbiased construction ideas as too whether or not I should use my transom?

Repair my transom with some added strength?

Or rebuild my transom with new wood?

I would greatly appreciate it,thanks.
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: Restoration of my 1965 Glasspar Avolon

If your current transom is anything less than 1.5" thick, I would reinforce it. Definitely start shopping for V shaped fuel tanks to move as much weight forward as possible.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: Restoration of my 1965 Glasspar Avolon

WB,

EZ is 1000% correct. #1 Get the Gas tanks moved under the front Deck. #2 I would at the very minimum sand down the inner portion of the transom to bare glass and apply two to three coats of 1708 biax cloth and EPOXY NOT poly resin, tabbed all the way into the side walls and the deck. Todays HP is NOT the same as 1960 HP. The weight is NOT the issue it is the torque of the motor and the performance of the new style of propellors. The stresses on your transom are Phenomenol. 90 HP???? Maybe 110--- NOT ME but--- it is your boat and you have been around the block a few times too, so make your decision.

SAFETY is SUPREME for me! I would hate to see your efforts and that beautiful boat go to the bottom of the lake due to overpowering.

But hey, I'm an Old Fart an maybe to overly cautious.

I'm just sayin...:D
 

Willyclay

Captain
Joined
Sep 8, 2006
Messages
3,264
Re: Restoration of my 1965 Glasspar Avolon

Some comments on your re-powering/transom question. My 1960 Avalon originally had a V4 Johnson 75 with two 6 gallon remote fuel tanks and the starting battery all the way aft with no weight related issues or balance problems. While the actual weight is less than your proposed motor, you have already heard the options for creating some relief. Years later, I removed the 75 and cut down the transom to accept a Mercury Mark75A which was an I-6 motor. Still no weight problems. Although the Mercury was "rated" at only 60HP, it was faster than the 75 Johnson. In the process of cutting down the transom, I examined it carefully to be sure it was sound. I was amazed at how strong it was at only 1.5 inches thick. From your pictures, it appears that the transom has 8 plies not counting any inner and outer fiberglass skin. For comparison, I had a 1965 aluminum Lone Star 16.5 foot Medallion II that was rated for 110 HP max and it had 17 plies in the transom and was 1-5/8 inches of plywood. In addition, it had a 3/16 inch thick aluminum angle (2X2) bolted horizontally to the inside of the transom just above the lower motor mounting bolts. Not sure how many bolts but they went all the way through the outer skin. While the curvature of your transom may present some challenges, some additional structure may serve you well. One forum member proposed chains between the upper motor mounting bolts and some anchor point on his boat. Just a thought. Your splashwell may add some additional challenges but also cover up the visual effects of any added structure.

There are some issues with the maximum horspower rating that need to be discussed. Back in 1965, USCG was not regulating the small boat building industry. I don't know what is on your rating plate but I did not have one on my 1960 Avalon. The 1965 Lone Star did have a plate that was "approved" by the OBC/BIA, whoever that was! My guess is boat builders' marketing & sales department established capacities and ratings back then.

Horsepower ratings on outboard motors changed in 1985 with industry standards being established. Before then, motors were generally rated at the crankshaft although the marketing influence was certainly alive and well at the motor manuafacturers also. Beginning with the 1985 models, the ratings were specified to be at the propellor shaft. Since your desired motor is a 1986 model 110HP, it would equate to 125-130HP under the "old" ratings system which is more than 50 percent greater than what your boat is rated during the same period. You seem to be on top of your game with everything you have said and done so far. Just be safe with this next phase. Good luck!
 

wishboneZ51

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
135
Re: Restoration of my 1965 Glasspar Avolon

Ok, Lets dig a little deaper here and for the sake of our discussion I am more curious then trying to prove wrong on the subject. Wisdom goes a long way and I value your guys input very highly. To say you are an old FART is just not soo, maybe a little stubborn but neverless you do have a point.

So motors have changed a little these days right. They have gained more HP at the prop as apposed to the crank, or have they? If you take a motor, any mid size motor and you put some specs together such as weight, HP, options, size, materials used in building the motor. If you take those specs and place them in line from let say mid 70's to current. Do we not see a trend of jumping up in those catagories and a 15-20 HP gain in size on motors as compared to back then? All they have done was change some of the numbers around like musical chairs but the physics are still the same. Weight to HP ratio or energy driven to overcome negative forces such as wind, drag, and water still apply.

Yes, I agree there is a difference between 85hp and 110. But in todays specs a 90-through 115 are all the same size motor and weight. They only changed the carb size, load, and exhaust perameters. Ofcourse props have changed considering they used to mainly use brass, in which we still use today on our ships. To stainless steel wich happens to give the least amount of flex and strength.

We as humans have always found ways to improve technology. From the mechanical abilities to structural strength. But if we can agree that there are millions of products built today in which the boat industy has not dodged is in built quality. Many things of today are flimsy, cheap, poorly made, or built to only last a set amount of years. Unlike the manufacturing of the turn of the baby boomers in America.

Things were built rock solid and to last a LIFETIME. Everyting was made, manufactured and built right here in the United States. That is why your boat and mine as well as thousands of others have brought back from the dead. They have lasted a very long time and for some that have been brutally abused are still chugging along.

In todays society we are about out sourcing, cheapest labor and maximum dollar savings and profits. The clean air movement and recycling. Building products and services with an expected replace or repair life expectancy.

I can remember growing up with gas being .20 cents a gallon and people balking at the myth of the cost of fuel to ever reach a $1 a gallon. Gas was leaded back then which created much more HP and better power to energy ratios then compared to our crappy gas of today. My father works for NASA and has been building the flight controls for 35 years. He cannot wait to retire due to the way business is ran today. He used to build the best parts in the world, now he has to put his signiture on a design for something that was designed to last 5 years. He literally has to design parts to break, what is up with that crap?

Ok back on track here. Motors have not changed much other then more sophisticated electroinics to operate to full potential. Hell I can point out probably 50 people in my office alone that have no clue where there dipstick is in their car. They are oblivious to car maitenance and functioning of what they own. We are a consumer nation not a production nation.

We have to build things DUMMY proof because people are clueless to mechanical engineering and how things work. Point in case, I have a friend at work that literally drove 5 miles after she saw her temp light on red and smoke pillowing out of her hood before coming into work. I asked her why she did not stop and she said she did not want the car to break down. $2800 later from blowing her head gaskets, water pump completely torn from the engine housing and heads warped. She was back on the road again, lord have mercy.

Hell my fathers brand new retirement boat that he has been dreaming about for over 30+ years a 2010 Proffesional Ranger Bass boat of which he paid almost $40,000 for has been out on the lake 3 times. Of those times we broke down twice due to faulty workmanship and pride in building QUALITY products.

So my last point of discussion on this matter. I happen to own in my PERSONAL OPINION the WOLDS BEST sports car ever designed and built, the Chevrolet Corvette. It has a 6.2 liter LS3 motor sitting in its cradle and has a top speed of 189 MPH. With all of its 435 stock HP I could easily take it too its limits. Would I ever go that far, maybe, we all have the choice right. But if we remember back in the 80's when smog testing and pollution was being pushed heavily with the introduction of UNLEADED fuel. The Chevrolet Corvette actually was being produced with less HP then some family sedans and other vehicles of that time era. But people still had the love and passion for the car and most were oblivious to its size and hp ratios. I love the car for what it is and what it stands for. Our boats are living legends of the American heritage of building American Made To last Products.

I feel the same way with this boat here. It just so happens to have a little bit of caution on the side of safety in which it's HP rating is less then preferable. I am not here to question or push the envelope. I want to bring back America and purchase just about everyting I can made from the USA. I like older motors for everything that I have spilled out here in this god awful story. Yes, they have horriable gas mileage, yes they are heavy, yes they have a tendency to not have all of the flashy bells and whistles of todays chineese crap. But it is a whole lot better product then anything they have to offer.

So, Woodonglass my friend and valued boat building Mentor, I have a question for you. As I agree with you that our boats mine and yours most certantly may not need 110 HP as apposed to a 90 in which would be its replacement cohart of this time era. If not pushing the evelope as to put the pedal to the medal or drive it like I stole it attitude. Is it possiable that this motor can be operated safely on the water if we properly prep and prepair the boat for such a set up? With the 90 hp motor being the same size and weight, in apples to apples if a 110hp motor runs to let say the 90 hp motors capabiltieswould things be different?:rolleyes:
 

wishboneZ51

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
135
Re: Restoration of my 1965 Glasspar Avolon

Some comments on your re-powering/transom question. My 1960 Avalon originally had a V4 Johnson 75 with two 6 gallon remote fuel tanks and the starting battery all the way aft with no weight related issues or balance problems. While the actual weight is less than your proposed motor, you have already heard the options for creating some relief. Years later, I removed the 75 and cut down the transom to accept a Mercury Mark75A which was an I-6 motor. Still no weight problems. Although the Mercury was "rated" at only 60HP, it was faster than the 75 Johnson. In the process of cutting down the transom, I examined it carefully to be sure it was sound. I was amazed at how strong it was at only 1.5 inches thick. From your pictures, it appears that the transom has 8 plies not counting any inner and outer fiberglass skin. For comparison, I had a 1965 aluminum Lone Star 16.5 foot Medallion II that was rated for 110 HP max and it had 17 plies in the transom and was 1-5/8 inches of plywood. In addition, it had a 3/16 inch thick aluminum angle (2X2) bolted horizontally to the inside of the transom just above the lower motor mounting bolts. Not sure how many bolts but they went all the way through the outer skin. While the curvature of your transom may present some challenges, some additional structure may serve you well. One forum member proposed chains between the upper motor mounting bolts and some anchor point on his boat. Just a thought. Your splashwell may add some additional challenges but also cover up the visual effects of any added structure.

There are some issues with the maximum horspower rating that need to be discussed. Back in 1965, USCG was not regulating the small boat building industry. I don't know what is on your rating plate but I did not have one on my 1960 Avalon. The 1965 Lone Star did have a plate that was "approved" by the OBC/BIA, whoever that was! My guess is boat builders' marketing & sales department established capacities and ratings back then.

Horsepower ratings on outboard motors changed in 1985 with industry standards being established. Before then, motors were generally rated at the crankshaft although the marketing influence was certainly alive and well at the motor manuafacturers also. Beginning with the 1985 models, the ratings were specified to be at the propellor shaft. Since your desired motor is a 1986 model 110HP, it would equate to 125-130HP under the "old" ratings system which is more than 50 percent greater than what your boat is rated during the same period. You seem to be on top of your game with everything you have said and done so far. Just be safe with this next phase. Good luck!

Willclay,

You are a very smart person with a sharp keen for detail. You are right in every aspect as to your knowledge on the facts you presented.

Except my transom is 1.75 inches in thickness,why I dont know. From the looks of things, it does not seem to have been redone in its lifetime. We do know that the structural stability of a rounded stearn creates a strong foundation for structural strength. Such as a bow or a bridges design. The stress exerted on the transom changes dramatically in these reguards.

Knowing what we know in todays technological world and with my knowledge being in the USCG. Perameters are built into equations of X factors. Such as in calculating your maximum HP rating for your vessel. The rules do not state between years, nor do they detect between materials of construction. Because in these equations those have already been deemed relivent in which the mathmatical equations were set. Meaning the design of a typical boats features depnding upon the size of the vessel will encorperate these factors.

Lets look at two very different cars and compare like factors.

a 2010 Ford Mustang Cobra wieghts in at around 3800-3900 lbs. depending upon options. Currently it puts out around 535HP at the crank.

Now take my car the Chevrolet Corvette in which weighs 3100 lbs. and has 435hp stock at the crank. The Corvette will win in every way in measuring performance,handeling, and feeling characteristics. Why and how is that possiable that my car would win. Weight to hp rating factors, but given the scenario of HP=more stress and force driven to overcome its weight disadvantages the Cobra still losses in every case.

Bigger is not always better, and depending upon your setup it might prove to take you backwards in performance and handeling.So if we take two motors from two generations such as these motors what can we see that is different between the most important factors of the equation. Weight, HP ratings, size are what in my mind would be the biggest factors! Now the 1965-1969 engine models that were within the HP ratings of 80-85HP were all heavy and built solid as a rock and maybe moved the boat in relative terms 70-80% of what its capabilities were. Take that same weight and size and add the positive factor of new HP ratings and development the performance will go up. But the weight will still be a negative factor no matter how you want to slice it and dice it.

That is why you can see movie clips on YOUTUBE of 1986Honda Civic out performing, out running a 2 million dollar Lambergini. I assure you that little Honda Civic was not designed and built for that amount of force and energy exerted on that little frame. But it didn't nessisarily have a lot of factors that needed to overcome the Lambo in a head on race. The lambo would need to gain a tremendous amount of HP to build the gain enough to beat a Civic in which would only need a fraction of the HP to weight rating. However the law of physics does not change in either examples. Enertia and energy built has its equal negative force against it and in our case Water is its most definate negative factor the motor has to overcome. Hence the bigger the boat, the bigger the engine needs to be in order to overcome the negative factors.

I am mearly changing some of the characteristics in my case in gaining the best performance for my application. Which is 5-6 people in which most are over weight right. Food, snacks, gear, stress from performing acts of fun on the water as in skiing and tubing. This boat loaded with everything I have and in which I want it to do, it will down right be a DOG on the water when it comes time to perform if I were to put a 65-80HP motor on it in which it was origionally spect out for.

So I am asking the builders of this awesome site to help me in prepping my awesome boat in which is 100% made in the US of A for our time on the water so we can do it SAFETLY and within the limitations of the boat.

So if I need to beef up the transom from what you guys say then we will do it. If I need to change out my transom with better materials then I will do it. I just need wisdom and building techniques to help in solving those issues. Thanks for all your input and it is greatly appreaciated.
 

wishboneZ51

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
135
Re: Restoration of my 1965 Glasspar Avolon

Ok so I took some pics of the transom up close. What is interisting to me is how about 4-5 inches from the bottom the transom goes to 2 inches thick but the top is 1.75 inches.

What do you guys think?

IMG_3112.jpg

IMG_3111.jpg

This is the bottom drain hole!!!
IMG_3110.jpg

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IMG_3113.jpg
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: Restoration of my 1965 Glasspar Avolon

I think it's swollen which is giving you that extra thickness. I don't like picture number 4.

But in today's specs a 90-through 115 are all the same size motor and weight. They only changed the carb size, load, and exhaust parameters.

WRONG! it's actually the same all the way up to 140 ;):D

In all seriousness, my concern isn't so much the safety aspect. I just don't think you'll like how it sits in the water or handles. For that boat I would personally rather have a 3 cyl 70/75 than a V4. But that's me. You can easily trade your V4 for something smaller if you don't like it. I do think you should saturate the top of that transom and any exposed edges with epoxy, and I think you should add a little more glass with some tabbing to the hull sides.

Just a point of discussion which is actually more to your side.....Wood brings up the point which is often made on this forum about getting yourself in some kind of legal trouble from overpowering. I have yet to hear a single case of this actually occurring. Has anyone else heard of one? As for the insurance/liability issue, that I could more readily see but I know the chances of that are still pretty slim.

When I had my 16' closed bow, which was rated for 85 and had an 85 V4 on it, I felt this would have been the IDEAL motor:

Yamaha%2090AETOL%20W.jpg
 

wishboneZ51

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
135
Re: Restoration of my 1965 Glasspar Avolon

Yes, actually I had questions about that. Right to the left is where the motor clamped down and is pushed in a good 1/8 of an inch. So my question would be did the motor compress the wood denser then its origional state, or like you stated the wood has swollen? Wouldn't that mean the wood has been saturated by water for a long time, and if so why no rot, or sponge?


If the wood has swollen, does that weaken the strength of the wood?

In my years of service on the water, without a identification plate the discretion is within the abilities of the officer. a 110 is sooo close to a 90, I highly doubt that it would register as a red flag.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: Restoration of my 1965 Glasspar Avolon

Hey wb,

Take a look at my transom wood
100_3459.jpg


IMHO you have had some water in there at some time in the past. That wood is checkerd and the plys have started to separate. Now it might have sat in a DRY place LONG enough for it to have dried out but it has been wet at some time and Swollen and parts of the wood have receded while others have stayed expanded. If my transom looked like that and I wanted to hang a 90 HP motor or bigger on her, I would DEFINITELY be replacing my transom. It's your boat, so do what YOU want.

I'm just sayin...:D
 

wishboneZ51

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
135
Re: Restoration of my 1965 Glasspar Avolon

Wow brother that transom looks NIIIIIIICE!

Ok I had a really good night tonight. I went and picked up my new motor for our boat and I am very excited. My close friend Mike from Martin Marine went over the motor with me at the guys house. He has been building, selling, and maintaining boats on the water for over 35 years. He as well as the owner Ken and Kate assure me this is going to be a great set up for me and the family. I took some pictures after I took everything off that we new we were going to be replacing so I can feel comfortable with what I have. Today Mike ordered all of the parts that we both agreed would like to be replaced. We also wanted to check out the pistons, sleeves, and condition of what the motor has been like in its life time so far.

Check out my motor stand I built this and it should last a lifetime and can hold up too 900lbs.

As for the transom, we looked at it hard and cannot explain what had happened but if you can tell from the pictures, the wood underneith the fiberglass coating is in terrific shape. Mike and I went over it with a fine tooth comb and this sucker is hard as a rock. Sounds like you are knocking on a door. So we both agreed that if I were to strip the rest of the fiberglass cloth off and sand it real good, I can apply one more small layer of wood and epoxi that to the rest. Then throw on three layers of Biaxel glass with epoxi and this thing will hold be rock solid.

The only answer that we can come up with for some swelling at the top maybe from rain sitting on the exposed wood and over time this moisture can sit and swell up the exposed layers. But also makes sense why the rest of the transom is so solid and has no swelling or rot anywhere.

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