Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Todd4

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

AHHHHHH - Now you're adding wires, and not telling me, to see if I'm paying attention. :D Yup, that'll work exactly as you have described the way you wanted it to work. BTW - Your getting good at this!

Todd
 

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Todd I can personally thank you for the getting good and that's definitely stretching it :D I truly can't thank ya enough for your help. And ya i forgot to wire in the tach light and decided to just slip it in... at least it was blue and stands out among the sea of red and black. Now off to ordering parts.

Lets make a check list:

14 AWG for fuse block loads and switches
60 amp breaker
2 AWG to 4 AWG for the long runs of starter wire to the battery
4 AWG for the amp
inline fuse for amp
fuses for the fuse block
16 AWG for speakers
12-14 AWG for Sub
Tons of crimp on spade connectors

What am i missing? Wire gauges looking alright?
 

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

How many amps should the common bus bars be able to handle?
 

bouttime007

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Wow Piece youve got quite a bit done since the last time I was here!

Lookin snazzy buddy!
 

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Wow Piece youve got quite a bit done since the last time I was here!

Lookin snazzy buddy!

I'm bound and determined to have in the water in a couple of weeks. She's been in the dry dock WAAAYYYY too long!
 

bouttime007

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

I'm bound and determined to have in the water in a couple of weeks. She's been in the dry dock WAAAYYYY too long!

Aint that the truth Piece! LOL Hey Ive been there before too buddy, it happens to everyone at some point.

I love the sub by the way, I had a fleeting idea to do the same but scrapped the plan. My stereo/LED lights battery is right behind that panel now. I can live without the extra bass I guess, but at least I finally have tunes now. Make sure the small bolts arent loose right at the bow seat support bracket, because mine are and I have an annoying vibration/buzz at higher volumes. I have my Polk 525s in the little piece of ply in the bow, but the ply is original and shrunk, thus loosening the bolts. Easy fix once I get around to replacing them.
 

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Aint that the truth Piece! LOL Hey Ive been there before too buddy, it happens to everyone at some point.

I love the sub by the way, I had a fleeting idea to do the same but scrapped the plan. My stereo/LED lights battery is right behind that panel now. I can live without the extra bass I guess, but at least I finally have tunes now. Make sure the small bolts arent loose right at the bow seat support bracket, because mine are and I have an annoying vibration/buzz at higher volumes. I have my Polk 525s in the little piece of ply in the bow, but the ply is original and shrunk, thus loosening the bolts. Easy fix once I get around to replacing them.

Putting the sub in that location was really the only option I had. I thought about cutting a hole in the one of the seat boxes for the back to back lounges but it would have been so much more work. Would have had to cut a ton of plastic ribs out of the way to replace with some plywood for structural support etc. etc. Instead I just busted out the grinder and made short work of the bow seating deconstruction. Had some left over arauco plywood from the bow seating and made the templates for the sub enclosure. Then it was more or less cut the template to fit. Then after both pieces were fit I covered them in left over vinyl. Thought about putting cup holders in the top but didnt want drinks and condensation dripping on the sub. The wood is actually just a face and lid; not a true box as the JL 10" sub I have is infinite baffle meaning it was designed to work with an infinite amount of air behind the driver unlike normal subs which needs the increased air pressure from a box to help with sound quality. You'll see this JL sub at boat shows just mounted in a piece of starboard sounding great.
 

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Alright guys and gals the 14 awg primary wire (red and black), heat shrink terminal connectors, and heat shrink butt connectors have been ordered! Got that accomplished last night and just got an email from Greg's marine wiring stating my order has shipped! As soon as that comes in I'll wire the switches and accessories back to the fuse block.

Now with the power wire I am still confused. I understand that the wire should be able to support the amps of the circuit. The length of the conductor should be from the source of current to the battery switch and then back to the source. In my set up it is the length of the wire from the motor to the battery swtich and from the negative terminal bus bar to the motor. Now what i need to determine is the amp drawer from my starter. I also understand that the running amp draw is much different from the amount needed during starting. I am going to check the motor's manual when I get home to see if it states the amp draw during start. From there I will be able to input all my variables into a wire gauge calculator to determine proper gauge or just refer to a chart.

What I don't understand is how to determine the gauge wire needed to run the batteries in parallel or the run of wire from the switch to the fuse block?

Now back to what I do understand or actually a clarification of what I think I understand. The fuses/breakers in any wire are used to protect the wire not the load. In my set up the 60 amp breaker is used in line from the positive bus bar to the fuse block due to the fact that the run is 10' or less with 6 awg. To explain: the 6 awg at a run of 10' or less at 3% voltage drop in a 12v system can support up to about 80 amps but you only want to run a wire at 80% capacity which is why a 60 amp breaker is being used..... Does this sound correct?

Now when shopping for terminal bus bars last night I noticed that like everything else they come in different shapes and sizes. What size (amps) bus bar would I need? To determine this do i just find a bar that will support my biggest amp load or will it need to support a summation of all amp loads run to it. I.E. the positive bus bar that has the power wire from the switch, the power for the fuse block, and the amplifier power wire attached.

If you can help with any of these areas it would be greatly appreciated. I want to learn this stuff so I can troubleshoot if needed down the road. Any threads, hints, advice, in depth explanations, websites, etc would help. Like I stated I am trying to understand the basics. I am attaching the wiring schematic to this post for further scrutiny

Revised_wiring_diagram(1).jpg
(if iboats opens image too small to see detail either save image and open in MS Paint or click on image after opened by iboats which puts image on own page, then click again to zoom) I will be more than happy to PM this to anyone just give me a shout. As always thanks!
 

Piece715

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

*slight nudge*

Forgot to look in the manual for the starter amp draw :facepalm: But on the positive side I got the steering cable run and installed last night. Works like a charm and simple to run. Its a little long could have done with a foot less but gonna use it till it craps out and just remember to buy a shorter cable next time. Guess i added too much for the CMC set back... pretty sure I only added a foot more from the old cable... oh well all i know is that its working... wish teleflex would allow me to switch for a shorter one :rolleyes:
 

bouttime007

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

How long of a steering cable did you get?

(Im gonna have to upgrade soon)
 

Piece715

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

How long of a steering cable did you get?

(Im gonna have to upgrade soon)

I went with the Teleflex Rotary NFB Safe-T II. It was the 14' kit. I'm pretty sure when i ordered it I did their A+B+C and round up to next foot thing and may have added an extra due to the set back of the motor caused by the CMC. But like i said a foot or two less would have been much better.
 

bouttime007

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

10-4 Piece.

Hope I can find a wheel to my liking, mine blows.
 

bouttime007

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ezmobee

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

I hear ya. My wheel came free with my steering system.
 

bouttime007

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Apr 21, 2007
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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Hey bouttime... I know that wheel... but where from?! :rolleyes: hmmmm.

Umm and just "Ok" more like Fantabulous! :D Just the price of steering wheels is ridiculous!

View attachment 140539View attachment 140540

I was just about to comment on yours once I went back and looked. LOL Must be a SeaNymph thing.

Hey how soft is the white part on yours? Is it a 14"?
 

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

I was just about to comment on yours once I went back and looked. LOL Must be a SeaNymph thing.

Hey how soft is the white part on yours? Is it a 14"?

Its not very soft; So if your looking for a soft fluffy one this won't be what ya want. Pretty dense rubber but it comfortable and solid. Its got some heft to it that's for sure. Can't remember size... let me look to see if i can find out for ya.
 

Todd4

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 11, 2012
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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Piece,

How long have I been gone? You sure got a good list of questions, fast. :D
Since no one has answered you yet, I'll take a stab at it. Remember there's more than one way to do everything.

Wire Gauges - They all look good for 15A curcuits (check what that radio will pull). The wire gage from the switch (battery selector switch?) to the fuse block is calcualted by the sum of the total amp draw and the distance between the switch and bus bar - neither of which I knnow - TBD.

BUS BAR SIZE? Depends on the size of your bar. Assume each screw terminal (each wire run) is good for 15 - 20 amps (use 15 A). Then add up how many screw terminals you have on the bus bar. For example: If your bus bar has 10 screw terminals (can connect 10 wire runs) then your bus bar is rated for 15 X 10 = 150 amps. If you only have 5 screw terminals then it would be a 75A buss bar. Remember 20 A may be used to rate some buss bars, but you should be drawing well less than 15A per circuit, so your good either way (except for maybe that amp). Consequently, you should be buying a bus bar(s) that'll handle the number of wire runs you have and be less concerned with amperage as long as the overall amperage divides into 15A or more for each screw terminal (for each wire run). Buy quality marine stuff (ss screws) and you'll be good.

STARTER CABLE GAUGE: General rule of thumb - use 2/0 for your application (unless you have unusually long cable runs). Your starter amperage will vary considerably depending on your battery voltage - 13V (full charge) will pull one amperage, while 11.5V (half dead) will pull considerably more amps. The CCA of your battery will come into play also, as will the outside temp and the engine (starter) temp, etc. So sizing your cables from a simple published ampre draw would be difficult to do.

That should keep you going a little longer.

Todd
 

bouttime007

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Its not very soft; So if your looking for a soft fluffy one this won't be what ya want. Pretty dense rubber but it comfortable and solid. Its got some heft to it that's for sure. Can't remember size... let me look to see if i can find out for ya.

No Im not really looking for fluffy soft, just a little forgiving. (more than hard plastic basicly)

I think yours will be 13.8, so the description says anyway.
 
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