Rocks

MRneatfreak

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 20, 2012
Messages
138
So I just got a new SS prop yesterday:rolleyes:. So today was going slow through a no wake pass had my young son driving, got too close to the sign that said "danger rocks" only that sign was turned facing the other way he thought it was the red right returning sign post which awas about 15 feet away:facepalm:. Prop caught them about 4 times before I could shut it down (that is a nasty feeling when the boat shudders). Got out inspected the lower unit seemed ok. 2 of 3 blades on the prop are slightly rough on the outside edges. Skeg got grazed a little on the very front, not too bad.

I've seen a video of a guy taking a file to a skeg, but what do you use with SS prop? Do I need to take it off and inspect the rubber bushing in the middle, or have that bushing replaced? I think the engine and lower unit survived, no oil leaking and no puncture wounds. I was able to make it back to the docks just fine. Anything else I need to do?

Will post pics afterwhile.
 

90stingray

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Oct 26, 2010
Messages
1,162
Re: Rocks

Depending on exactly how bad... i would take to a prop shop for cleanup/straighten and balance. Or if not too bad... take a nice flat file and file out the bad areas. Try to do it evenly over all the blades. Then i like to smooth it down with a scothbright wheel on a dotco. Fishish it with a heavy cutting polish and finish it with a finer polish and wax once mirror finish. Let's see some pics and we can give better advice.
 

MRneatfreak

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 20, 2012
Messages
138
Re: Rocks

104_7958.jpg104_7952.jpg104_7953.jpg104_7954.jpg104_7955.jpg

These really don't do the justice of seeing them in person. Hard to get it to focus on the shiny metal. I think I'm going to take it back and have the shop fix it. When I bought it, the owner of the store said he would cup the blades for me someday after I took it out for the first time. As a selling point because I was hemming and hawing at the $225 price tag.
 

Georgesalmon

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 14, 2012
Messages
1,793
Re: Rocks

I would let a prop shop fix it. You could file, but balence is important to. And, what did he mean he would "cup" it for you? It already looks like a pretty good cupping in the pictures. Before you get it fixed, was the engine rpm in spec at WOT? If not you might kill two birds, as they say.
 

MRneatfreak

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 20, 2012
Messages
138
Re: Rocks

Haven't gotten around to wiring up the tach yet. I just recently got it runnning good, through another thread. Been slowly working out the gremlins with the carbs, fuel pump and ignition.
He said my tach guage wasn't that important, and that he could adjust all that with his own portable tach. So far it 'sounds and feel's' about right at wot.

I have another question. Do outboards have replaceable anodes? If so where is it located?
 

MRneatfreak

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 20, 2012
Messages
138
Re: Rocks

Dropped the prop off at the shop where I bought it, and the guy said he would replace the rubber bushing and take care of the nicks all for $65 and would be ready in one day. Which I thought was a good deal. He didn't say anything about balancing it, but maybe that's like asking if you changed the oil filter when you changed the oil as they go hand in hand, I don't know?
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,778
Re: Rocks

Haven't gotten around to wiring up the tach yet. I just recently got it runnning good, through another thread. Been slowly working out the gremlins with the carbs, fuel pump and ignition.
He said my tach guage wasn't that important, and that he could adjust all that with his own portable tach. So far it 'sounds and feel's' about right at wot.

I have another question. Do outboards have replaceable anodes? If so where is it located?

You are looking at part of one of them in your 4th picture. It's that circle you see on the bottom of your AV plate just above the prop blade. The others, on Mercs at least are just above the antivent plate, one on each side and the third one is on the bottom of the transom clamp bracket. All are raw zinc and usually show some corrosion....their job....sacrificial metal. Gives up under electrolysis so the serious metals in your engine don't have to.

HTH,
Mark
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,778
Re: Rocks

View attachment 147828View attachment 147829View attachment 147830View attachment 147831View attachment 147832

These really don't do the justice of seeing them in person. Hard to get it to focus on the shiny metal. I think I'm going to take it back and have the shop fix it. When I bought it, the owner of the store said he would cup the blades for me someday after I took it out for the first time. As a selling point because I was hemming and hawing at the $225 price tag.

$225 is not a bad price for a SS prop so be happy! Cupping will give you better prop to water holding power in situations where the prop would otherwise like to "blow out"...ventilate and loose thrust. Additionally, if all else will support it, at WOT it can act like 2 more inches of pitch and increase mph.

On the extent of the damage, I doubt that that slight damage even caused your prop hub to torque, much less be damaged.....if that helps you to not worry about additional damage to things.

Mark
 

MRneatfreak

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 20, 2012
Messages
138
Re: Rocks

Got it back yesterday, looks pretty good, no rough edges, however there is a slight point to each of the blades, not round all the way around? He said the bushing was still good.

Have to see if he sells anodes. More sea trials, and this time stay well away from any post in the water.
 
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