Rude 100 hp, no clue what i'm doing

[jjrobiso]

Evinrude 100 hp 1979 mo. 100999s. Sat forever on a 1985 Winner ZZ880 and I bought the boat for $50 Thinking, "No prob, I can do this." 5 months later....help.

The Electrical is screwed up. if anyone can help me with that (i.e. relation to battery and remote and gauges and basically everything on the boat. Does main battery power for accessories go through the remote or does it run independently from the same battery? Theres a lotta wires running from it and to it. I put a new ignition in due to previous owner had no keys, 90% certain i got the wiring right on that, I'll double check.

Anything that can help me without me ordering a $50 book I'd be much obliged. there are a few main problems...
I don't know if it runs,
I don't know what maintenance to do on it before i start it off. and...
as stated before, no electrical. So, I have some questions. I'm really rambling, so hang on.

is there a way to just hook up trim? or a way to manually lift motor? I do beleive the trim is not working properly, theres a lot of dirt and grime where the trim is located. broke the skeg taking it home. any suggestions for fixing that? skeg gaurd, etc... wow, i'm just about hopeless

The flywheel turns slowly with pressure, not the prop with the flywheel. The carburetors look clean, but haven't taken them completely off to check, kinda afraid to, would i need to replace gaskets if i did? looks like newer plugs, starter needs replaced, or that little teeth thing on top-can i just replace that? and fyi, that is about as mechanical sounding as i get.

to be quite honest, I don't know whether this is a two stroke or four stroke and what that means. I get the concept (sorta) just don't know what I got.

I just want a sense of direction for my momentum on this thing. I love fishing and my dream was for a boat and I got it. so now i gotta get it going.

I am sure I'm doubling on some other threads, if you know I am point me in the right direction please.

 

[BonairII]

Re: Rude 100 hp, no clue what i'm doing

Anything that can help me without me ordering a $50 book I'd be much obliged.

That is the WRONG attitude. If you want to continue to struggle with(and possibly ruin) your motor, by all means "save" $50 bucks and don't buy the book.

An OEM service manual WILL(not might) save you hundreds of dollars, by preventing you from replacing suspect parts that are, in fact...good. And will save you countless hours of frustration and get you on the water in no time.

If you bought the boat for $50 and expect to NOT have to put time and money into it....you are in for a big surprise. Boats/motors don't HAVE to be expensive(but sometimes can be), but being cheap will cost you much much more in the end.

You need to buy the service manual(not the cheap Seloc or Clymer manual) and read it. You need to be able to do basic maintenance(like replacing impeller) or you'll end up paying a mechanic $100 bucks an hour to do it for you.

We will definitely help you.....but we can't do it all FOR you. You're going to have to try and educate yourself about your motor by buying the manual and doing some reading here.

 

[jjrobiso]

Re: Rude 100 hp, no clue what i'm doing

wow, here to learn. not get harassed. and learning isn't a problem. replacing a water pump impeller isn't a problem. it's getting a sense of direction. You strongly suggested I get the actual book because you believe it saves time and money, good. I'll do that. Anything else? step 2?


and I'll read it

 

[MRneatfreak]

Re: Rude 100 hp, no clue what i'm doing

Step 2 would be to check compression to see if its even worth spending more money on. But you will need to use a compression gauge. But to easily check that you will need power to the starter and all the other plugs removed. You can bypass the ignition switch if you have a porta power or jump start cable. Just connect to ground on the outboard block and pos to the pos terminal on the starter. Now this can be dangerous if its in gear, as the prop may move as you have bypassed the remote box and the safety interlocks inside. For sure the flywheel will move if the starter is good and the engine isn't seized up internally.

Who is harassing you?

Yes power goes through the remote and to the starter. You should gave two thick cables going to the starter pos and neg. As well as power going through the remote and back to the starter solenoid.

 

[jjrobiso]

Re: Rude 100 hp, no clue what i'm doing

Okay, well I will replace the starter, because it's teeth are too worn down. or can you just replace the teeth part?


Actually, I can just start it up and see if it the starter even works, then I'll know whether to replace the drive assembly or the whole starter. thanks.

any way i can trim the motor up manually? or without a lot of hassle? I can get it to a shop for a guy that can help me work on it, but i'm too afraid i'll rip the motor off its so low to the ground.

 

[MRneatfreak]

Re: Rude 100 hp, no clue what i'm doing

to be quite honest, I don't know whether this is a two stroke or four stroke and what that means. I get the concept (sorta) just don't know what I got.

Two stroke burns gas and special fuel oil (can't use regular 10w-30) and 4 stroke is like what your car is = only burns gas or diesel, and uses oil for lubricating the engine internals but the engine oil isn't being consumed (at least in a good engine). I'm not an outboard Master yet, but I'm 75% sure Evinrude didn't make a 4 stroke in 1979.

 

[wired247]

Re: Rude 100 hp, no clue what i'm doing

Okay, well I will replace the starter, because it's teeth are too worn down. or can you just replace the teeth part?

You can replace the Bendix drive. Theyre around $40.

 

[MRneatfreak]

Re: Rude 100 hp, no clue what i'm doing

Okay, well I will replace the starter, because it's teeth are too worn down. or can you just replace the teeth part?

Yeah they sell parts for the starter. Another route would be to turn the flywheel by hand while checking compression. Just make sure you removed all the plugs to prevent any chance that it would take off on its own (better safe than sorry). Get ready for a workout, and spray some lubricating oil in each cylinder before you move the flywheel, any spray oil will work.

 

[MRneatfreak]

Re: Rude 100 hp, no clue what i'm doing

Evinrude 100 hp 1979 mo. 100999s. Sat forever on a 1985 Winner ZZ880 and I bought the boat for $50

$50 is almost too good to be true. I hope your hopes aren't too high. Compression, fwd, neutral, and reverse engagement, spark, fuel delivery, water pump, steering cable, and remote cables. That's the order I would go in.

 

[jjrobiso]

Re: Rude 100 hp, no clue what i'm doing

ya, I'm going to be completely redoing it...new gauges-100 new steering cable-100, new electrical-(God only knows), it's a task. Hope to put the entire redo on youtube when it's done in early 2035 lol. But $50 and a $30 tire and a $20 ignition was all it has cost me so far. I know this will not be easy, or cheap. But it can be fun learning and I'm sure I'll learn a lot. Thanks

 

[jjrobiso]

Re: Rude 100 hp, no clue what i'm doing

Step 2 would be to check compression to see if its even worth spending more money on. But you will need to use a compression gauge. But to easily check that you will need power to the starter and all the other plugs removed. You can bypass the ignition switch if you have a porta power or jump start cable. Just connect to ground on the outboard block and pos to the pos terminal on the starter. Now this can be dangerous if its in gear, as the prop may move as you have bypassed the remote box and the safety interlocks inside. For sure the flywheel will move if the starter is good and the engine isn't seized up internally.

I shouldn't be expecting spark plugs actually firing or the need for a hose and muffs?

 

[wired247]

Re: Rude 100 hp, no clue what i'm doing

I think my free boat has cost me $4000 so far.

 

[jjrobiso]

Re: Rude 100 hp, no clue what i'm doing

She's beautiful tho. mine....ehh, needs some work

 

[BonairII]

Re: Rude 100 hp, no clue what i'm doing

wow, here to learn. not get harassed.

I wasn't trying to "harass" you. I was just replying to the statement that you made regarding needing help, but not wanting to spend $50 "on a book."

You'll find that all of us here on iboats are def here to help.....The first thing they(we) always ask is for EVERYONE to buy the OEM manual for their motor. In the end, the folks here at iboats want to make you self sufficient.

Once you read the manual, you'll be familiar with the components on your motor...and how each part operates.

BTW: Follow the steps(tests) the pros suggest...in the order that they suggest them.

#1 Check compression

 

[Mikeyboy]

Re: Rude 100 hp, no clue what i'm doing

Jj bonairll is right the manual is a must especially if your mechanical knowledge is limited. At the vary least when you ask for help you'll be able to reference the manual and know what parts you'll be asking about ie the teeth part vs the bendix. Plus I'm sure bonairll was not trying to harass he's been extremely help full and encouraging to me as I work through my motor issues right now.

 

[F_R]

Re: Rude 100 hp, no clue what i'm doing

Boy, do ever see warning flags flying all over this thread. The infamous description of a boat fits: A hole in the water that you dump money into.

I agree that a shop manual is a necessity. However, it won't tell you the basics. Begin with an OWNER'S MANUAL. That is where you will find the answers to the basics, like how to tilt it. But the owner's manual quickly loses its usefulness and you need a shop manual to do work on the motor. Be aware, however, that the factory shop manual is primarily written for the dealer's shop. It assumes the reader has at least some knowledge of what he is doing. What it DOESN'T tell you would fill several more books.

 

[MRneatfreak]

Re: Rude 100 hp, no clue what i'm doing

I shouldn't be expecting spark plugs actually firing or the need for a hose and muffs?

Its ok to look for spark. But the spark plugs firing have no bearing on whether or not your engine has sufficient compression to complete ignition and the power stroke. Without all 4 cylinders having equal pressures your motor will probably idle ok but when you put it in the water and apply a load to the engine, i.e. in gear, the motor will sputter out.

Make sure you peruse the the sticky notes in the forum on the basics, advanced stuff and how-to's and where-to's. I think the golden rule when measuring compression is to have all cylinders within 10% psi of each other. So for example if 3 cylinders are at 100 psi, it would be ok if the 4th cylinder was at 90 psi.

 

[MRneatfreak]

Re: Rude 100 hp, no clue what i'm doing

Sometimes its hard to read voice inflection when you are reading text on the web. Therefore it is hard to distinguish a person's true message.

 

[glenn property of pam]

Re: Rude 100 hp, no clue what i'm doing

welcome to iboats lol. i think its time to go back a few steps and firstly see what you have. the controller (lever that shifts gears and throttle) has one large wire that goes to the motor and connects to the motor with a red plug (check you have that). next is the positive and negative wire that goes from the battery to motor negative goes to the block positive to the solinoid. the positive side of the solinoid has 2 or 3 wires attached to it the battery wire, a smaller wire with a fuse (check that) and if you have trim and tilt then a trim power wire.
the rest of the wiring is for the boat and is optional and can be fixed later. pull the plugs and spray oil in the cylinders then try it. if you have the basic wiring the motor should turn over when you turn the key. if you hear a click from the solinod when you turn the key but starter does not turn then clean all connections. if this all fails then its time to jump the starter directly to the battery but this is dangerous (i still have the scar from blowing a battery when i was 14 and im over 40 now) we love pictures it makes life easy. so we would like to see your controller, your motor mount, under the cover from all 4 sides, your battery connection. the motor is going to require $150 in parts just to be serviced and a $50 manual so we will try to get you to the point of compression testing before you spend any money on what might be a dead motor.

 

[jjrobiso]

Re: Rude 100 hp, no clue what i'm doing



just some pictures, remote, cables, mess. I am having difficulty with what the box is. Trim solenoid assy? Doesn't look exactly the same as original diagram with evinrude.com. could have been replaced tho. the throttle cable does work, as does my hotfoot. That box is probably the most confusing part of this project right now. I'll check starter monday and probably order the evinrude owners manual and service manual then and either a new starter or bendix gear.



sorry pics are upside down.