Seafarer transom and deck replacement

[Three08]

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement - Updated

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement - Updated

ok thanks, I'll round the edges, should I do the edges and the faces in the same sheet and have them overlap the edges or should I cut strips to cover them?

Yeah winters meant to start [FONT=arial, helvetica, clean, sans-serif]1st of June but it's been raining for weeks now so I guess winters come early.[/FONT]

 

[GT1000000]

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement

Not sure I understood...

When you cut the layer of CSM for one of the faces...make it bigger all around by about an inch, that extra inch or so, is what you will use to wrap over the edge...repeat for the other side...

Here is a picture of one of my pieces with CSM on only one side...you can see the CSM that needs to be trimmed off before I do the other side...the area inside the red lines...

I suppose what you might be asking is, If there is a gap left when the two sides are done where they meet at the edges...then you can just fill those gaps with a bit of PB...or if they are too big, you could use torn bits of CSM...

 

[Three08]

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement

Yep, that's what I meant, the excess is used to cover the edges.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement

I would not use PB to laminate the two transom pieces together. Either use Resin and CSM or as GT said I recommend using the Titebond III we have here in the states. I believe it's distributed in Australia as well. You will actually get a much stronger bond using this glue than you will with the PB. A quart of glue should be sufficient. The nails really help with keeping it all aligned properly. You can use deck screws to screw it all together as well and then remove them later and fill the holes with PB when you install the transom in the boat. Check this out for an excellent transom install.


http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=526064&page=12

 

[Three08]

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement

Thanks Woodonglass I looked at the

Titebond III it sounded really good but I want to get the core wrapped in csm in the same day as gluing it, what's the set-up time like on that stuff?

If I go csm instead of titebond is 2 layers of 1.5 oz enough? Can I back off the the mekp a little, say to about 1.7 - 1.8 to give me a longer working time? I'm just worried it's going to set before I get the second half in place and clamped/screwed down. ​

I didn't get as much done as I wanted today but the transom core is cut and I started sanding to ruff it up but the drive belt on my sander broke so I only got halfway though the first side.

What size holes should I do for the relief holes? As much as I hate the idea of drilling holes in my nice new transom it does seem like a good idea and I did noticed quite a few voids in the glue when I removed the old core....

The core, 2x18mm marine ply (1.41 inches) a few spots will need fine tuning and the cut out for the plug needs to be rounded off some more.

Looks like I might be able to make the knees out of the off cuts.

 

[Three08]

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement

The core all cut and edges rounded off.

A close up of the corners, did I round it enough?

The core soaking up the resin, I used 1.5% mekp for this.

I had a really hard time with the clamps now I'm thinking of cutting them up and using the wood as braces across the transom when I fit the core to the boat. ( Like what oops did on his)

Now my problem is I ran out of time so the core is going to have to stay outside over night :facepalm: if it absorbs too much moisture I'll have leave it to dry again. If not I'll be wrapping it in CSM in the morning.

 

[Three08]

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement

Well the clamps are off the core and I'm not happy with the results, it looks like I'll be spending another $300 on marine ply to do this again

90% of it looks great but there are a few spots in the corners where the 2 sheets haven't stuck properly, is there some way to fix this or should I just cut my losses, scrap it and start again with new marine ply?

This is the bad spots, I can't see any way around this, it's stuffed isn't it?

You can see in these ones it's mainly in the corners....

But not only in the corners.

 

[Three08]

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement

 

[itsstock]

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement

Wrong clamps and too short if they were to be used.(still bad idea).
You should of drilled holes in both end and had threaded rod at both ends(ratchet tie downs work even better and faster but more$)
Also your ply should of been sitting on more timber and had about another 200 bricks on it.

Epoxy poured into the gaps might save it. i am on expert so i hope one chimes in about here.....................

 

[Three08]

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement

Yeah I think a few more clamps on the edges would of saved it too, 90% seems to of bonded really well but those corners are a major worry. I was thinking along the some lines as you, that maybe pouring some adhesive in the gaps and then reclamping that section but I only want to do that if to will fix it properly. I would much rather spend the cash and time to redo it if it cant be fixed properly and safely.

 

[oops!]

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement

your fine bud.....just fill the gaps with peanut butter before installation......then on installation use pb all around the transom....(the gap between the edge of the inner hull and the core, yes....keep it off the hull bottom.....use pb for this.)
this will seal your edges and the centre lamination.

either the wood was warped or there was something in between the laminate, that kept the two pieces of wood from making full contact.


the reason you could not get the pb mixture to work was too little resin.....if it starts to gum up.....add a splash more resin....and get it to the consistency you want. thats the beauty of the stuff.....you can mix it however you need for each different application.
when mixing.....i use only glass.....like milled fibers....and short strand fibers....
i use micro balloons for a sanding and fairing application.

to all iboaters.....during the summer season....the forum is really busy, as well...its boat building/repair season.....i cant keep up with all your threads as much as i would love to.

if you have a question for me.....please please...pm me the link.....

cheers
oops

 

[Three08]

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement

Thanks opps, good to hear I don't need to start again. I'll have another go at that peanut butter tomorrow with some extra resin standing by, I'm guessing the other part of my problem there was mixing by hand so I'll pick up some sort of mixer for the drill tomorrow. I wish it was summer for me, there's nothing but wet cold days predicted for the next week....

 

[Three08]

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement

Hey everyone, I'm back! Sorry for the lack of updates. Here's some photos of where I'm upto

Had to trim it down a little as I didn't allow room for the CSM

The core soaking up the resin

In the next 2 pictures I have covered with CSM and sanded it back.

The pod/outboard bracket, I was going to make one but I picked this up to save some time.

 

[Three08]

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement

I should be installing the transom sometime in the next 2 weeks just waiting for the weather man to tell me it's not going to rain for 2 days.. I'm thinking about getting the guy that made the pod to do the stringers as I'm really starting to push for time, snapper season is starting to kick off down here now and it really sucks not having the boat on the water. That way I can make the template for the deck before it goes, work on it while the stringers are being done and fit the deck as soon as it comes back. I want this back in the water by January at the very latest so it's full steam ahead.

 

[Three08]

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement

Well the transom is in

 

[Three08]

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement - Updated

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement - Updated

And the tabbing is done too!. I did 6 layers of tabbing with CSM then 1808 @ 4, 6 and 8 inches overlap. Is this enough?

I've also made a start on filling the cutout so far it has 1 layer of CSM and 2 of 1808, I'm not sure if I should use just CSM for the rest of that now or put 1 more layer of 1808 then CSM...

Oh did I mention we're in the middle of the best snapper season here in more than 25 years, it's driving me crazy not having my boat!!! I've been fighting the argue to patch the stringers and floor to finish off this season...

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement - Updated

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement - Updated

I'd mix up some Hairy PB and fill the area with it then sand smooth as possible and apply a final layer of CSM. Do some final sanding and Fairing and call it good. How much of a depression is left to fill?

 

[chrome dome]

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement - Updated

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement - Updated

only read a couple of pages, gotta get of to work now so fast forwarded to today,
looking good mate,
got an old Pacific project boat doing everything on,
interesting reading so far,

you're right...never caught some many snapper before this year LOL,
( the other boat don't need anything done...yet )
cheers

 

[Three08]

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement - Updated

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement - Updated

Wood
Still quite a bit to fill, but it's a little high on the part where the new glass has overlapped so I might sand that down a little bit first. I think it's going to take up to 3 more layers of CSM in the center but I don't think it wants much more on the original transom skin so I might put one more layer of 1808 in the new section then sand and re access what to do from there. Would it be a bad idea to put a layer of 1oz CSM over the whole transom when it's done? I'm going to flow coat the the whole transom anyway?

chrome dome, they sure are going off. 2 weeks ago there was a 1 meter snapper landed here in port phillip bay (the bay that I fish the most.)

The first layer of the inside skin went in today. I'm a little worried about the next layer of CSM, my CSM was just big enough to get what I need for this layer but my next layer of CSM will need to be 2 inches bigger, is it ok to overlap a second piece to get the size I need, if it's ok to do that where would be the best place to put the overlapped piece, up near the top of the transom or down on the hull bottom? The extra piece would only be probably a 5 inch strip. If it's better to use one piece I'll give my supplier a call in the morning and see if they have any wider CSM.

Here's a pic of the first skin layer, still wet.

 

[chrome dome]

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement - Updated

Re: Seafarer transom and deck replacement - Updated

l might be missing something but isn't it better to take the transom tabs out to about 18"/ 1/2 metre or so on the sides/bottom?
this is my first FULL reno..so l don't really know manure from clay but that is what l've read...and what l was intending to do with mine...once l get some more resin and some woven roven
again, l might be missing something but my roll of 450 CSM is 1040mm wide,

we fish PPB too but it's around two hours away by the time we stuff around on the Ring Rd or Tulla