Sealing deck

[4runneradam]

I'm replacing the deck in a 85 Bayliner 16' runabout outboard. Got all the wood cut out (3/4 ply from lowes)

I'm using polyester resin and whatever fiberglass they sell at Home Depot in a package.

I hear everyone refering to "oz" of fiberglass. The package does not list the weight of the mat, its just woven in a criss cross pattern.

Will one layer of this mat with poly resin be OK for sealing a deck? I will seal it top and bottom. This boat isn't worth epoxy and expensive fiberglass. I just want it to last me a few more years of use, and still be good to sell to someone else after that.


While I have you here, I have another unrelated question. Last few times out I had experienced some leaking of water into the boat. This is what caused the hull to take on water and started the deck to rot.

One time I took the boat out on the lake, and the boat took on a LOT of water, enough to fill the gas tank storage area beneath the splashwell. Next time out it took on barely any water at all.

Trying to figure out where the water is coming from. The bottom half of the transom was rotten, enough to where it was sawdust around the plug. I'm thinking maybe the plug wasn't sealed and was leaking that way?

I gutted the middle section of the transom (its a 3 piece design). I am going to seal up the hole for the plug and leak test the boat by simply launching the boat in the lake with no motor. Just let it float for a while at the dock to see if anything else is leaking.

Sound like an OK idea? 90% of the deck is also removed. (seat boxes are still in) Shouldn't be a problem right?

 

[Mark42]

Re: Sealing deck

Welcome to iboats! I believe member capri1600 has the same model Bayliner, and my 85 1600 Capri Cuddy Cabin is similar in design, they share the same hull.

Regarding the poly resin and glass from the depot, it will work fine for what you want to do. One layer is fine, especially if you put carpet (yech!) or paint it or lay vinyl.

I am sure if the transom is rotted and the deck needs replacing, then the stringers are shot too. When you pull up the deck there will probably be rotting stringers and wet foam. Also, the seat bases are foam filled. Check out the pictures posted by capri1600 and you will get a good idea what is in store for you.

The seat bases and other above deck structures should be made from 1/2" ply, otherwise, you are adding more weight than you need.

The transom is three sections with two knee braces, but I'm unsure on if the sections can be replaces separately or if it all needs to come out at once. In my Cuddy, it looks like the transom can be replaced without removing the cap. But you will have to get your head under the splashwell and see how the transom connects at the top where the cutout for the splashwell is.

While your working on the boat, don't forget to take a piece of ply and glass it to the hull so a bilge pump can be screwed down. Right in front of the gas tank well is a good spot.

Don't forget to take and post pictures!

Good luck!

 

[4runneradam]

Re: Sealing deck

Thanks for the advice!

Deck is already cut out. Stringers look good, I drilled in a few spots and got dry shavings. Foam appears dry too. Its been sitting the garage close to a year now.

I'm leaving the seat boxes in place, and replacing the deck in pieces around it. Not the proper way to do it, but it will work fine.

Seat boxes are foam filled you say? Is it possible for water to wick its way up into the seat boxes and saturate the foam? Because otherwise it would have to be dry because the boat was never flooded. Just took on a bunch of water below the deck.

Excellent idea on the bilge pump! I actually have one I was planning on installing, but didn't think of the plywood mount idea!

I'm installing outdoor carpet. Simply because its cheap and easy. I'd love to paint it with some sort of non skid bedliner type stuff or an epoxy, but it would require too much effort in prepping the deck and be too expensive.

Thanks again!

Now I just have to wait until its around 70 degrees and no rain! Then I can begin glassing.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Sealing deck

Its good that you didn't find wet foam and that is why the stringers are good. The seat foam generally doesn't get wet unless the boat sits outside and water pools on the top of the box, then soaks down in.

If you are cutting the deck out around the seat boxes, then that will leave the seat boxes resting on the outer edge of the hull, and just foam on the inside near the stringer. With all the pounding the seats get in rough waters, some additional bracing is needed.

If you want a non-skid floor, paint the ply with an oil base outdoor paint. Mix in some play sand to give it some grip.

 

[4runneradam]

Re: Sealing deck

I
If you are cutting the deck out around the seat boxes, then that will leave the seat boxes resting on the outer edge of the hull, and just foam on the inside near the stringer. With all the pounding the seats get in rough waters, some additional bracing is needed.

Actually, there is still plywood under the seat box. I just cut it flush with the end of the seat box, and butted the new wood right up against it. I will then mix up some peanut butter to radius the 90 degree, and fiberglass the new deck into the seat box.

 

[chrishayes]

Re: Sealing deck

you will find that by doing the deck that way butt joined to the old deck that you will have a week spot where the 2 meet due to having no reinforcement under the joint. Good luck.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Sealing deck

Actually, there is still plywood under the seat box. I just cut it flush with the end of the seat box, and butted the new wood right up against it. I will then mix up some peanut butter to radius the 90 degree, and fiberglass the new deck into the seat box.

Yes, there is ply under the seat box, but like chrishayes wrote, it may not work out like you plan. The ply under the seat is just resting on the foam. With the weight of people on the seat, and the pounding it takes on the water, the butt edges will crack and the seat will sink into the foam. If possable, leave the ply extend from the seat bases to the center so they rest on the stringers. Its only a couple of inches.

If its already all cut away, maybe a support can be fit under the seat box.​

 

[halas]

Re: Sealing deck

4runneradam,
If you want to stay in the budget ; While you are at Home Depot to pickup the poly resin go to the garden section and buy a roll of commercial weed block. A 4' X 50' roll for around $25.
It is a heavy "spunbonded polyester" fabric. It will work well with the poly resin. Lay it down dry onto the plywood then roll on the resin. It will soak it up and become one strong layer. Give it couple coats of 2 part epoxy paint (such as the Sherwin Williams Tile Clad) with fine sand in the first coat. You should have a sturdy deck surface for a long time.

 

[rucaradio]

Re: Sealing deck

Just ordered all my resin from US Composites today..

Quick question - where in Home Depot is fiberglass? I had no idea they carried resin. How's the selection?

 

[halas]

Re: Sealing deck

The poly resin is in the paint department under $40/gal.
I only saw small pieces of fiberglass cloth (don't buy it there).
You can get rolls of real fiberglass in different weights in your LOCAL Sherwin Williams or the Glidden stores (Called: "Glidwall System").
We used to buy them to restore old or rough wall surfaces.
Actually plasterd the fiberglass on the wall kind of like wallpaper. Handle it with care because it will make you itch for a while. I personally dont use that stuff any more I just use the spunbonded polyester, looks like heavy woven fiberglass without the ich.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Sealing deck

The poly resin is in the paint department under $40/gal.
I only saw small pieces of fiberglass cloth (don't buy it there).
You can get rolls of real fiberglass in different weights in your LOCAL Sherwin Williams or the Glidden stores (Called: "Glidwall System").
We used to buy them to restore old or rough wall surfaces.
Actually plasterd the fiberglass on the wall kind of like wallpaper. Handle it with care because it will make you itch for a while. I personally dont use that stuff any more I just use the spunbonded polyester, looks like heavy woven fiberglass without the ich.

Now thats an interesting idea. Would like to hear back from members who used spunbonded polyester to coat their decks in a year or two to find out how it held up.

BTW, the Home Depot stores around me carry Elemers brand polyester resin. Not rated one of the best, but that was from a post on another boat site where it didn't work well for the member.

 

[PiratePast40]

Re: Sealing deck

I just picked up a quart of Bondo brand poly resin/fiber mix at Home Depot. It's in the paint department with the adhesives.

NAPA also carries resin as do some sporting goods stores. MAKE SURE you understand the codes on the resin cans and make sure it's not expired. I had a bad experience with some 3 year old resin.

You can also check local boat repair shops to see if they'll sell you resin, catalyst, mat, and cloth. They will have fresh product and may be a good local source for advice.

 

[halas]

Re: Sealing deck

I just picked up a quart of Bondo brand poly resin/fiber mix at Home Depot. It's in the paint department with the adhesives.

NAPA also carries resin as do some sporting goods stores. MAKE SURE you understand the codes on the resin cans and make sure it's not expired. I had a bad experience with some 3 year old resin.

You can also check local boat repair shops to see if they'll sell you resin, catalyst, mat, and cloth. They will have fresh product and may be a good local source for advice.

That quart of Bondo brand resin/fiber mix is good stuff for filling holes and it is waterproof. Besides that product Home Depots around here in N.E. Ohio have the gallon size thin clear poly resin that is also Bondo brand and waterproof according to the label.

 

[4runneradam]

Re: Sealing deck

While were on this topic, how should I prep the plywood for fiberglassing? Sand it smooth? Rough it up? Acetone after sanding?

 

[Mark42]

Re: Sealing deck

While were on this topic, how should I prep the plywood for fiberglassing? Sand it smooth? Rough it up? Acetone after sanding?

I find that basic CDX is rough enough as is. Good idea to run the shop vac over it to remove dust. Clean surfaces are important.

 

[PiratePast40]

Re: Sealing deck

I'll second the opinion of clean surfaces. Acetone wipe down to get the last of the dirt or grease off isn't going to hurt either. I'm one of those guys who has had all sorts of problems with fiberglass adhering to the surface - admittadly some of the problems were self inflicted - but am now a firm believer of having everything clean.

 

[4runneradam]

Re: Sealing deck

Excellent! Thanks guys! I'm going to start fiberglassing tomorrow!

 

[chrishayes]

Re: Sealing deck

keep us posted on your progress 4runner! I am going to be glassing this weekend too for the first time. Cant wait.

 

[4runneradam]

Re: Sealing deck

I glassed my first piece of wood today.

It was about 85 degrees outside. I mixed up a quart of resin and hardner. Used the full tube of hardner that came with the quart of resin.

I borrowed an idea I found here on the site to buy me some more working time. I cooled the mixing container with ice water. I floated the mixing container in a larger container filled with ice water. This gave me about 15-20 minutes before the resin turned to jelly.

Once thing I realized is that the cheap home depot fiberglass cloth is THIN. After you saturate it, you have to be careful or you will rip it.

I used a cheap foam roller to try and smooth out the cloth. I have a LOT of what appear to be air bubbles, where the cloth just wouldnt smooth out. One or 2 spots are worse than others and will have to be ground down and reglassed.

My foam roller turned to mush and pulled apart into pieces about 10 minutes into the job. Next time I think I'll try a paint brush to apply and a squeegee type thing to get rid of air pockets. I'm sort of afraid to push to hard with the squeegee in fear of tearing the cloth. And I might try working with several smaller pieces of cloth rather than one big one.

Here's how it turned out. You can see the air bubbles.

 

[4runneradam]

Re: Sealing deck

You can get rolls of real fiberglass in different weights in your LOCAL Sherwin Williams

I went to a Sherwin Williams store today and asked them if they sell fiberglass and resin. They looked at me like I was speaking Chinese. They diddn't even seem to know what fiberglass cloth and resin was. They asked "bondo"?

Are you sure they carry it? Maybe I'll try another store.