Sealing the U-Joint Bellows watertight on an OMC Cobra

KM7

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On an OMC Cobra getting a watertight seal on the U-Joint bellows is critical. If water gets in the bellows it gets onto the U-joint and the gimbal bearing. Those items can quickly rust, resulting in expensive and complex repairs. (Believe me, I know!)

The forward end of the bellows is sealed onto the round fitting on the gimbal housing using a hose clamp. You can get a good seal there as long as: 1) The lip in the bellows is properly positioned in the grove of the housing 2) The hose clamp is positioned properly in the grove of the bellows 3) The hose clamp is tightened properly and not overtightened and 4) The surface of the gimbal housing is smooth and not pitted from rust or exposure to salt water.

The seal on the aft end of the bellows is a very different mater. There is no hose clamp. The seal is created by a tight fit of the bellows into the hole in the Pivot Housing.

The OEM manual (Pivot Housing Installation, 6-24 step 9 figure 34 in my book) says : ”Apply OMC Gasket Sealing Compound around the V-shaped lip inside the U-joint bellows opening”

As the outdrive is slid into place onto the pivot housing the bearing carrier will press onto the bellows and further seal it against the pivot housing.

In my opinion, the seal between the bearing carrier and bellows is a secondary seal and should not be exposed to water as long as the other seals are intact. That includes; the forward edge of the bellows at the hose clamp, the aft end of the bellows at the pivot housing, the flat joint between the pivot housing and the outdrive and the threaded fitting for the shift cable on the back of the pivot housing.

If all those joints are water tight then there would be no water at the interface between the bellows and the bearing carrier therefore that joint is secondary.

I intend to use a sealer anyway just as more insurance for leaks and rust.

That interface was difficult because the surface of the bearing carrier was worn and pitted. I cleaned it up as best I could and filled in the rough spots with J-B Weld and then filed, sanded, used primer and painted it to get as smooth a surface as I could.

I’d like to use a sealer that will have some thickness to it and fill in any rough spots that still remained. I think that Permatex Aviation #3 will be too thin.

What gasket/ sealer would you use in this location?
 

Bondo

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I’d like to use a sealer that will have some thickness to it and fill in any rough spots that still remained. I think that Permatex Aviation #3 will be too thin.

What gasket/ sealer would you use in this location?
Ayuh,..... #2 is a paste, in a tube,.....
 

Lou C

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What I have done for 20 years of OMC Cobra maintenance, is after using OMC gasket sealer when the bellows is snapped into the pivot housing (stern end of bellows) is this:
generously coat the bellows where it will contact the bearing carrier with OMC triple guard or Lucas Marine grease
coat the area on the bearing carrier where it will contact the bellows
this addition of grease seems to help
I think that the Permatex is thinner than the OMC gasket sealer so you're on to something
Also the gasket between the drive and the pivot housing should keep out water but I always coat all the sealing surfaces on both the drive and the pivot housing AND the gasket with the OMC sealer. Messy, but effective.
 

Lou C

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PS on that other question, I found in the garage (always a challenge for me) the updated bell crank and end cap with grease fitting. The bellcrank fits into the end cap like I'd expect, no play, not loose but not stiff. I "think" that it might be better to have installed the cap first, but also not sure exactly how far it should be driven in. For all these reasons I am just leaving mine as it is, because I always pull the drive anyway, so I'll just install a new O-ring on the old bellcrank.
 

Bondo

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Do you like Permatex #2 in this application?
Ayuh,..... I'm a Merc guy, I was just answering yer question,....
Never had the problem yer dealing with, just offering a thought,.....
'n Yes, I use either #3, or #2, pretty much daily,....
 

Scott Danforth

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FWIW, Volvo uses permatex #3 between casting mating faces that live under water. I use the stuff for sealing gearboxs for work, I use it as a thread sealer and retaining compound.

I use permatex #2 or #3 on the outer edge of seals. Either would most likely work.

I would be tempted to use 3M weatherstripping adhesive (AKA yellow snot) in the bellows, however cleanup would be a pain
 

Lou C

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The most important things

on the Cobra bellows install, is to make sure that:
the ridge that's in the bellows lip fits into the groove in the gimble housing flange
the hose clamp is oriented properly (approx 2:00 positon)
the bellows is asymmetric so the side with more folds faces down, this helps to keep it from cracking if the drive is left up and might make it last a bit longer
 

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KM7

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Thanks, Lou. I did note the orientation of the bellows per the instructions, I put the gap for the hose clamp screw cage at the 2 O'clock position. I also made sure that the ridge in the bellows fit into the groove in the gimbal housing flange.

The hose clamp band is positioned in the wide groove made for it and the screw cage is at 2-oclock. The hose clamp is tight but not too tight.

HoseClampUJoint_InPosition4_resized.jpgHoseClampUJoint_InPosition2-Resized.jpgHoseClampExhaust_InPosition2_Resized.jpg
 

Lou C

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PS
I inspected the bellows today because I was going to reinstall the outdrive, and it looks good, no small cracks anywhere, even though it was installed 9 years ago!
 
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