Sears 7.5 HP Crank seal?

MahtyMaht

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Re: Sears 7.5 HP Crank seal?

Yep - the black leg would bolt right up to my engine. If I change the oil seal under the impeller, dows that mean I have to thoroughly clean the drive shaft to avoid scrfing up the seal lip?
 
M

mrcrabs

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Re: Sears 7.5 HP Crank seal?

I have to thoroughly clean the drive shaft to avoid scrfing up the seal lip?
yep nice and clean as you can and then slather some 80w-90w marine gear oil on it for easy penetration :eek:

I rebuilt that 7.5 this winter from top to bottom...the works, I have it on a 14' 60" wide jon boat but the Ohio river and the creeks are one raging torent of mean water
My Grandson and I went to the lake yesterday evening and caught 20 1-2lb bass at the spillway....they would hit on anything you could think to throw at them :D so who needs a boat anyway ;)

That plate allows access to the shift linkage disconnect, similar to the way it's done on OMC engines
I have had several medium to large OMC outboards and they all required disconnecting the shift linkage at the powerhead and its a PITA!
 

MahtyMaht

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Messages
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Re: Sears 7.5 HP Crank seal?

I'm starting to get a little excited. I got the power head installed on the leg, bolts all torqued and loc-tited. I put a very thin coat of that copper hi-temp silicone sealant on the gaskets. The stator plate fit right up, so I put a little Merc grease with teflon in the bore, set the spring detent thingamajuter, and reinstalled my trusty red Atom Computer Ignition Module on a custom standoff. Got blue fire. The flywheels between the two engines are interchangeable. The crankshaft does not have a keyway for the point cam, though. I have always kept the original points and condenser on the engine, in case the SSI module quit. Little nervous about losing the capacity to switch back to points on the water, but, hey wattayagonnadoo. Next, I extracted that broken bolt from the bottom of the leg. Now, I'm ready to do the pump impeller and the seal below it. Gonna see if I can't get it done during the week, so I can get it into the trash can test next weekend. I also have to get the fuel nipple put back into that little cast fuel pump flapper cover. It just pulled right out. It's still a press fit, and I could probably just cram it back in there, but I think I'm gonna have to JB-Weld it. My spare carburetor has two of those nipples on it, and I guess I could use it, I just don't wanna. 'Till next time, girls and boys.
 
M

mrcrabs

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Re: Sears 7.5 HP Crank seal?

The flywheels between the two engines are interchangeable
They may look the same but did you look closely at the magnets? The solid state model will have three and if I remember correctly if you use the flywheel from the SSI model the third magnet (middle magnet) is suppose to blow the deal because it sends a pulse through the trigger coil similar to the breaker points firing. You can check the magnets with a home made Gauss meter.
http://enginesandmagnets.com/id2.html
So if what your saying is correct then one only needs to change flywheel and stator assembly to the points type(that would be great), add a aftermarket SSI module and presto goodby SSI, timing advance would be acomplished by charge capacity timing as the stator position is advanced.??? no real trigger coil other than some kind of electronic switch (SCR)? in the Atom, I'm still learning and always looking for work arounds and fixes and better understanding. Electronics is kind of like math for me, get past 1 +1 and I start getting dizzy;)
 

MahtyMaht

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Re: Sears 7.5 HP Crank seal?

That's exactly what I think. I suspect that a fella could take the SSI off the stator, and put a points coil on it. I only saw two magnets in the SSI flywheel, same size as original and the keyway's orientation relative to the magnets was also a match. I think whatever triggering is required is done by the ignition module. I'm may suggest to my neighbor that we get a couple of red Atoms and coils, and see if we can't light up his 9.9. I expect I should look at his flywheel first, though. Why are there two adjacent magnets in a points flywheel? I guess I could see it if each north/south pole passing the core represents a set of magnetic flux lines that induces coil core voltage, and that's just what's required to charge the condenser.
 
M

mrcrabs

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Re: Sears 7.5 HP Crank seal?

I used the gauss meter, actually just a paper clip and compass and found N-S
 

MahtyMaht

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Re: Sears 7.5 HP Crank seal?

Well, ya got nibblin' on my knuckles, now - I'm going to have to investigate...
 
M

mrcrabs

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Re: Sears 7.5 HP Crank seal?

I posed the question to Ed Stoller today, like I said I get a bit dizzy with this stuff but I do understand that there is a major diffrence between the coil types and what triggers the pulse, I guess I need to study Eds work more and maybe in 20yrs just before I die of old age I may understand it all....;)

Hi Doug,

It is late but maybe a short answer now and a complete look tomorrow.

First, the Atom is an electronic switch that replaces the points is a
magneto type ignition. The SSI is really a Capacitance Discharge Ignition,
CDI and not a magneto despite what some parts lists say. In the CDI, there
is a coil in the stator that generates up to 450 Volt pulses for charging
the Capacitor in the CDI. This coil is of fine wire and many many turns and
the current is small. A Stator for a magneto has no such high voltage coil,
but one with a few turns of heavy wire to set up a current in the primary of
the ignition coil. They are different animals.

In the SSI or CDI the capacitor is charge up typically 180 degrees before
the spark and sometimes the capacitor is charged up in steps that look like
stairs on a scope over maybe 45 degrees of crank rotation. Once the
capacitor is charged it sits there waiting for a trigger pulse to short the
charged capacitor across the primary of the Pulse Transformer. The trigger
coil also has a magnet but puts out a timing pulse less than a degree wide.

I hope this helps. there are more details on my web site.

Ed Stoller
New Fairfield, CT, USA
www.enginesandmagnets.com


The trigger
coil also has a magnet but puts out a timing pulse less than a degree wide

ah the third magnet....me thinks
 

MahtyMaht

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Re: Sears 7.5 HP Crank seal?

Well, Mr. C, today's experiment has been delayed. I put it all together last night, went to the trash can, primed it, and started yannkin'. At about 10 yanks, I get one misfire, so I swapped in the points flywheel, yanked around a bit, got several more misfires, and a big fat jet of fuel out the overflow. Great. Apparently today is carburetor day. I'm takin' a break at the moment, more to play out the half-life on my irritation than anything else.
 

MahtyMaht

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Messages
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Re: Sears 7.5 HP Crank seal?

I got a ugly, ugly feelin'. Carb's lookin' OK now, but when I prime, choke, and yank, all I get is crank kick back. It does exactly the same thing with both flywheels. It has blue fire at the grounded plug, which is wet when I pull it. I got compression, fuel, and fire, so I don't see what's left but timing. WTF, men. W indeed TF.
 
M

mrcrabs

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Re: Sears 7.5 HP Crank seal?

have you followed the Tecumseh manual for your setup?
 

MahtyMaht

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Messages
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Re: Sears 7.5 HP Crank seal?

I think I have defined my problem - it's timing. The SSI stator has the charging coil in the same place the point coil goes. This means the SSI triggers are about 90 degrees from where the points coil is, so the keys will not be in the same place at TDC, and the only way I see to make this pig fly, would be to properly orient the flywheel, and run it without a key. Lousy practice, and if I hit anything with the prop, I'd have to reset the flywheel. I think I have the basis for the completion of my little experiment, though. Stay tuned.005.jpg
 
Last edited:

MahtyMaht

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Messages
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Re: Sears 7.5 HP Crank seal?

Quick update - I set both engines at TDC, and put the SSI motor's flywheel on with the key in about the same location as the points key, torqued the flywheel nut with no key, and it was maybe 100 - 120 degrees away from the SSI key. Sneaked out to the trash can for a quick prime/choke/yank/unchoke/open throttle/yank, no joy. It did behave differently, though, in that it backfired a lot. I suppose I'm actally going to have to devise a way to accurately mark the durned wheel, and figure out exactly where the magnet needs to be relative to the 3 legs of the points coil laminates.
 
M

mrcrabs

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Re: Sears 7.5 HP Crank seal?

why didn't you just change the crankshaft?
 

MahtyMaht

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Re: Sears 7.5 HP Crank seal?

I was hoping to avoid having to crack the rotating assembly. I'm not gonna get away with that, am I?
 
M

mrcrabs

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Re: Sears 7.5 HP Crank seal?

I don't think so, unless you want to go the repaired SSI route...I can forward your SSI to Ed and you send the PT to him and you pay Eds Tote. I think I POed him asking about my make believe 3rd Mag...lolololl I will help you anyway I can.
Hey I may even have a good SSI in the box.....not sure which one is which anymore.
 

MahtyMaht

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Re: Sears 7.5 HP Crank seal?

I've seen it before that the old experts can get impatient with what they consider questions so fundamental, that they are stupid. Those are the most important ones, though, when you're trying to assimilate a new idea. I figure that both engines are supposed to fire at about .110" BTDC, so the magnets have to be in the same place relative to the crank. I center-punched both flywheels on the OD, right between the magnets. Then I put both cranks at BDC, put the points wheel on, and used it's punch mark to guesstimate where the punch mark on the SSI should be. Nailed it down, tried to fire it up. It actually ran briefly, then would not start, and backfired a lot. Close, but no cigar.
 
M

mrcrabs

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Re: Sears 7.5 HP Crank seal?

I've seen it before that the old experts can get impatient with what they consider questions so fundamental

It seems that with electronic ignition I will get the info assimilated then it gets scrambled in my brain later on, carbs, bearings and rebuilding things that go bump are my specialty along with parenting and fishing and just plane old boat riding for funzy....I'm here @ Iboats to learn and to help, many questions asked here are sufficant grounds for me to studie up and teach myself something, and I like to be called on it when I blurt out something erroneous, I see no room for flagrant mis-information coming from me athough it happens, there is no benifit to being wrong.

As my all time favorite hero put it,
"I have never been lost, but I will admit to being confused for several weeks."--
Daniel Boone
 

MahtyMaht

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Re: Sears 7.5 HP Crank seal?

It's the biggest reason I spend most of my time on the forums reading, not writing.
 
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