Short or Long Shaft?

[racerone]

Not worth $300 / 150 , but I guess some folks are paying it.-----I would want the whole motor for that kind of money.

 

[zul]

Well, today it just won't start. i've read around but can't find any tricks or tips. Seems like squeeze ball, pull choke and pull cord... Since I'm new to this type motor, where do i start? Why is it not starting?

Spark, compression, fuel.

I'll do a compression test. How can i check for spark and fuel delivery?

 

[heypawpaw]

Had two 20 hp Johnsons, FD20 (1966) and 20RL70 (1970). On a 14' flat with 16" transom, both needed to be lifted up an inch to get AV plate level with bottom of boat. Proper connector for starter not easy to find and expensive if you do find one. I did away with old wiring harness and installed a push button to start engine and connected the two black magneto wires from under the flywheel to an aftermarket kill switch with safety lanyard. For troubleshooting, starter can be used by connecting negative jumper cable to engine for ground making contact with positive cable to lug on starter. (Connect heavy gauge wire to starter lug and use wire to make contact with positive jumper cable to avoid damaging starter lug). Needing choke and a lot of throttle sounds like a carb cleaning may be in order. Leroy's Ramblings is probably the most info in one place for these engines.

 

[heypawpaw]

To start pump bulb, pull choke, increase throttle to fast idle (normally as far as you can twist it in neutral). Turn engine over until it pops push in choke turn over again. For spark use an open air gap tester. Can be purchased at parts store for aprox 10 bucks. Needs to jump 5/16 inch bright blue spark with an audible snap. For fuel, after unsuccessful attempts to start, were the plugs wet and smelled of gas ? If not, push in choke to open butterfly and spray a little oil/gas mixture into carb throat and try starting again. If it briefly starts after spraying fuel in carb, its a fuel issue. Disconnect fuel hose from carb and put hose in a container and turn engine over to verify fuel pump is pumping gas. (gas should come out in spurts) If fuel pump ok time to clean/rebuild carb.

 

[zul]

After unsuccesful start, i pulled the plugs. They were colored and covered with oil but they seemed dry, not wet.
Compression test was 100psi, top and bottom.

Seller is my mechanic, says he'll get it started. Sounds like I should press him to do carb clean?

Great info, yall! I've been reading up on Leroys Ramblings, also good stuff for a newbie!!

 

[zul]

This morning, started on the first pull. I had it revving for 20-30 sec and then it died. Won't start again.
Pulled the plugs and they were wet.

Any ideas?

Maybe some new plugs. It has champ J6 plugs but read somewhere that some people prefer 'a hotter plug' ... suggested using a J8 ?? What changes by doing this?

 

[Vic.S]

Carb flooding or choke still closed ??

 

[zul]

Choke is open. I did pump the ball super firm this morning.

 

[racerone]

The motor should have a thermostat and the rule is a J4C for those.----Spark must jump a gap of 5/16" to be called " good spark "

 

[zul]

With a small gap, I can get spark top and bottom. Open the gap to 5/16 and I can only get spark on top, no spark on the bottom. So, I sorta have spark? Where to go from there? Pull the flywheel, i guess?

 

[racerone]

All I can say is that if spark will not jump a 5/16" gap your magneto may require some attention .-----Your choice, ---- pull and pull or tune the motor for a 2 pull starting motor !

 

[zul]

My mechanic (and seller) looked over the motor today and it ended up the enriching knob wasn't working. The nut nearest the carb was loose and set at wide open, flooding the carb with gas. Took him 3 minutes to adjust and it fired up nicely.

Next, we found the seals in lower leg are leaking. So he's ordered a full set of seals and he will install them later this week. I am hoping that he only charges me for the seals and donates his time to make things right ... we'll see on that one.

Also, he is going to install a selonoid, start and kill switch. Would be nice if he does that on the cheap for me.

So, at the moment, things are looking better for my 18 hp Evinrude!

 

[oldboat1]

On electric starting:

Push button starting would be the simplest way to go — need an outboard solenoid and a transom box for it. An outdoor electrical box from Lowes or Home Depot will work as a solenoid box. (I also recommend mounting the starter button at the box.)

Wiring is pretty simple. Run a 4 gauge wire (pref. red) from the pos. battery post to the left large post of the solenoid. Run a 4 ga. wire from the other large post to the pos. post on the starter. Run a 4 ga. wire (pref black) from right hand small post to the neg battery post. Also run a 4 ga. wire from the neg. battery post to an engine ground — typically one of the bolts used to attach the starter motor to the block.

For the starter button, run a 12 or 14 ga wire from the left hand large post on the solenoid to one of the posts on the button. Wire the other button post to the left hand small solenoid post.

I like to use new wires with factory-attached ends. If desired, you could add an inline fuse to the starter button.

I currently use this wiring setup on a ’57 Fastwin, converted to electric starting.

 

[zul]

oldboat1 My mechanic says he's done bunches of these conversions, and he is going to use a Ford solenoid that he has on hand. Do you think that is the correct equipment?

I'm not sure what an 'outboard solenoid' is or 'transom box'?

 

[oldboat1]

Nope. Use an OMC/BRP solenoid (but humor the mechanic). Vintage electric start outboards used a transom box (aluminum box with wiring access) to house the solenoid and fuses. It's a convenience for you to just mount the solenoid in one of the plastic outdoor boxes from Lowes, and mount the starter button in the cover. (BTW -- learn about the air/fuel carb adj. for future reference.)

 

[boobie]

Edit......