Should I add resin to the transom

[Cali_Boat_Guy]

1986 Sea Ray 270, twin 5 .7s. The PO hit one of the skegs hard enough to break off a pretty good sized chunk. They put a skeg protector on it. After some time we noticed a very small leak under the inner transom mount. Soon after, we removed the starboard engine, out drive and transom plate. We found that the blow to the skeg created just a bit of a oblong hole for the stud coming through the transom. We used a moisture gauge to direct exploratory holes. The wood is in good shape and the transom was dried out. As a precaution we ran boron water into the transom where the water intrusion occured. We have got the moisture level 10% or less in the transom now. Question, because I don't know how long the small leak existed, should I inject resin in the the area that was wet? The holes cut in the transom where the drive shaft comes through is painted wood. Should I add resin to seal the wood there too? That fact that the wood was not sealed did allow us to effectively dry the transom.

 

[Cali_Boat_Guy]

Happy Flag Day everyone!

 

[tphoyt]

I personally always treat any exposed wood with penetrating epoxy to seal it.

 

[Cali_Boat_Guy]

Thanks for the input!

 

[MikeSchinlaub]

Any exposed wood needs to be sealed. Any penetrations such as bolt holes also need sealed.

If I understand correctly, you're saying that one of the outdrive bolt holes is a bit oval now? If it's minor, I wouldn't worry about it, just reinstall the outdrive as normal. If it's a bit big, I would pack the hole full of resin putty and redrill.

 

[Cali_Boat_Guy]

The hole isn't very big. I was thinking about just filling it with 3M 4000 and pushing the bolt through. The resin sounds like a good idea. Thanks for the reply.

 

[Lou C]

I'd always seal any wood that isn't totally sealed with resin on a transom. In fact if the boat companies took the time to do a good job of that, there'd be a lot fewer rotted transoms!

 

[nola mike]

The hole isn't very big. I was thinking about just filling it with 3M 4000 and pushing the bolt through. The resin sounds like a good idea. Thanks for the reply.

I'd use adhesive of some kind. That hole isn't really structural. I used resin/drilled mine, but it's tough to get that hole perfect given the access.

 

[Cali_Boat_Guy]

I'd always seal any wood that isn't totally sealed with resin on a transom. In fact if the boat companies took the time to do a good job of that, there'd be a lot fewer rotted transoms!

I agree, that's what we will do! I appreciate the input.

 

[Cali_Boat_Guy]

I'd use adhesive of some kind. That hole isn't really structural. I used resin/drilled mine, but it's tough to get that hole perfect given the access.

We have decent access now with the engine out. We'll use penetrating resin to treat the exposed wood and adhesive sealant (4000UV) in the bolt hole. Thank you for the advice!

 

[Chris1956]

Gee, if you are sure the wood is dry, it makes sense to treat it with epoxy or poly resin. Either works well with dry wood. Epoxy works better with not so dry wood.

 

[Cali_Boat_Guy]

I've been using a moisture gauge, which has been helpful. The "knock test" identifies potential problem areas. Use the gauge to take readings and try to calibrate it. Dry them down and test accordingly. Thanks for the tip about epoxy. I didn't know that.

 

[Grub54891]

You could put a vacuum pump on the area, let it run for a few days and check the moisture levels to see if it changes for the better.