Re: Smoking gun...or leaking tabs
One other interesting side note...
When I was operating the tabs, the stbd side switch did not want to engage. Contacts maybe? When it did and I would let off, one of my cockpit lights would briefly flash on. Grounding issue maybe? It was only the one light and it has an LED bulb. If not LED there probably would not have been enough voltage to get anything visible out of an incandescent. Looks like I have my work cut out for me this winter.
Let's try cleaning the back of the switch and if that does not work, try step three in the troubleshooting below and let me know the results.
Tom McGow
Bennett Marine
Fluid: Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) any type. Hydraulic Power Unit is self bleeding, running the Trim Tabs up and down 3-4 times will purge air from the system.
Fuse: 12 volt system use 20 amp in-line fuse on positive. (24v & 32v use proportionately smaller)
Red=Port Valve
Green= Starboard Valve
Blue=Motor Forward (pump pressure)
Yellow= Motor Reverse (pump retract)
Black on HPU=Ground
Orange on Helm=Control Positive
Troubleshooting
1.If one side is not operating reverse hydraulic lines on the front of the Hydraulic Power Unit to determine if the malfunction is in HPU or actuator / hydraulic lines. If after reversing the lines symptom shifts to the other side the malfunction may exist in HPU. If the symptom remains on the same side, malfunction may exist with the actuator / hydraulic lines
2. Is the unit receiving a solid 12 volts? Low voltage will some times cause the solenoids to not open preventing the tabs from moving even though the pump motor is running.
3. Conduct the following test:
Remove the wires from the helm control and touch together as follows:
Operation=Reaction
Orange (+), blue, red=Port trim tab down
Orange (+), blue, green=Starboard trim tab down
Orange (+), blue, red, green=Both trim tabs down
Orange (+), yellow, red=Port trim tab up
Orange (+), yellow, green=Starboard trim tab up
Orange (+), yellow, red, green=Both trim tabs up
If the trim tabs function correctly for each wire grouping then the switch is at fault. Also note that any loose or missing screws on the back of the switch (whether a wire is connected there or not) can cause the pump to malfunction.
This test may also be done right at the pump by substituting a "hot lead" for orange. There is usually a connector to the wire harness within a foot or so of the pump. You want to check this connection for corrosion. You may wish to cut the connector off on the pump side and try the test on bare wires.
4. If you suspect corrosion on the wire connector near the pump, cut it out, test as above and reconnect using butt splices.
5. Check to see if there is a relay in line on the wiring harness near the hydraulic power unit. If there is it is an Interrupter Relay (IR1000). It prevents the system fuse from blowing if you try to actuate one trim tab up and the other down at the same time. After you test as outlined above, try removing the relay from the wiring harness and retest the unit. If it works the IR1000 will need to be replaced.
Note Bennett no longer uses the Interrupter Relay, the control switches automatically lock out preventing the fuse from blowing, but your boat is old enough to possibly have one installed