stewfish1818
Seaman Apprentice
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2010
- Messages
- 42
Ok I tried and tried to find a post with general info to replace a piston fluid ring on the tilt (middle piston) of the trim/tilt system. I have fluid leaking out of it. Part # 54 in link below.
Parts Diagram:
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/B...POWER TRIM-TILT HYDRAULIC ASSEMBLY/parts.html
1990 J150TXESB ( 150 hp ) but should be fairly universal in the John/Ev world at least from 1979 to 1991
I have the horrible manual
6 Dewalt grinder wrench does actually fit the tilt cylinder cover's pattern for removal.
I just need to get the system off the motor.
Thoughts?
SOLVED: Update and personal recommendations:
1.) Find how to make the tool in this thread it's 90% easier that a dewalt tool which will bend at the pegs
2.) Mapp or propane torch will take hours to get the $59 oxy-mapp torch at lowes or home depot (red and yellow bottles together) and use it on the cutting setting, or borrow and oxy-acetlyne torch kit
3.) Under the hammer and lowes and home depot you can get a punch that is giant and has a rubber piece that fits on the top of you hand as you grip it so you can really hammer as hard as possible and grip the punch with ll your strength to keep it exactly where you want it and sludge it over and over again on the tilt pin. If you miss it just hits the rubber piece and you will have it out in 5 minutes with a 4lb mallot. A hammer and punch etc may take hours and I gave up after 5 hours and went to the store and bought one $19 at lowes and $9 at home depot but I liked the one better at lowes. They are about 9" long.
PB blaster's pentrating fluid was the last fluid I used and may have made the difference, but see the tried and true fluids I found for releasing nuts and corroded objects as seen with exhaust pipes and in our case the tilt pin.
The pin moved on the 2nd hit with the 4lb mallot, giant punch, a full arms swing, oxy-mapp torch, and PB Blaster.
I left the tilt on the system and stood on the unit and my wife used the tool I made to twist off the tilt cap. It saved me a lot of time with the fluid lines and lower pin as well. The lower pin held the tilt cylinder in place as she twisted it off so no worries about damaging anything. Just don't pull the tilt away from the unit as the fluid lines could bend.
The electrical motor is steel so use your drill and circular wire brush to get off any rust and repaint. My favorite paint for water besides boat paint is the $7 rut-oleum universal all- surface paint that has the new head that can spray upside down (not the new nozzle types , but a new head with no cap). ON a side note I have used this paint on my Jeep top to get another year out of it and the paint has never came off. It truly is the best paint out there in a can. It also is working great on a dozen other projects I have.
Lastly don't take the electric motor cap off the brushes and springs will fall out and it's a pain compared to a starter as the cap makes it hard to get them back on. You cannot disconnect wires at that end. Go insid ethe motor to get the wires off.
Assemble Notes:
1.) scrape out the 1/32" worth of corrosion on the block side of the motor where the pin is supoosed to go in it should slide through the block's holes by hand then tap through the plastic shims of the tilt piston's eyelet.
2.) Save yourself 30 minutes and Prefill the reservoir while the unit is on your table facing up so the whole thing gets filled, then prefill the cylinder with the piston down but up just enough for the cap to be open to get the fluid bottle nozzle in to fill it up. Connect, lift up tilt and install pin.
Parts Diagram:
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/B...POWER TRIM-TILT HYDRAULIC ASSEMBLY/parts.html
1990 J150TXESB ( 150 hp ) but should be fairly universal in the John/Ev world at least from 1979 to 1991
I have the horrible manual
6 Dewalt grinder wrench does actually fit the tilt cylinder cover's pattern for removal.
I just need to get the system off the motor.
Thoughts?
SOLVED: Update and personal recommendations:
1.) Find how to make the tool in this thread it's 90% easier that a dewalt tool which will bend at the pegs
2.) Mapp or propane torch will take hours to get the $59 oxy-mapp torch at lowes or home depot (red and yellow bottles together) and use it on the cutting setting, or borrow and oxy-acetlyne torch kit
3.) Under the hammer and lowes and home depot you can get a punch that is giant and has a rubber piece that fits on the top of you hand as you grip it so you can really hammer as hard as possible and grip the punch with ll your strength to keep it exactly where you want it and sludge it over and over again on the tilt pin. If you miss it just hits the rubber piece and you will have it out in 5 minutes with a 4lb mallot. A hammer and punch etc may take hours and I gave up after 5 hours and went to the store and bought one $19 at lowes and $9 at home depot but I liked the one better at lowes. They are about 9" long.
PB blaster's pentrating fluid was the last fluid I used and may have made the difference, but see the tried and true fluids I found for releasing nuts and corroded objects as seen with exhaust pipes and in our case the tilt pin.
The pin moved on the 2nd hit with the 4lb mallot, giant punch, a full arms swing, oxy-mapp torch, and PB Blaster.
I left the tilt on the system and stood on the unit and my wife used the tool I made to twist off the tilt cap. It saved me a lot of time with the fluid lines and lower pin as well. The lower pin held the tilt cylinder in place as she twisted it off so no worries about damaging anything. Just don't pull the tilt away from the unit as the fluid lines could bend.
The electrical motor is steel so use your drill and circular wire brush to get off any rust and repaint. My favorite paint for water besides boat paint is the $7 rut-oleum universal all- surface paint that has the new head that can spray upside down (not the new nozzle types , but a new head with no cap). ON a side note I have used this paint on my Jeep top to get another year out of it and the paint has never came off. It truly is the best paint out there in a can. It also is working great on a dozen other projects I have.
Lastly don't take the electric motor cap off the brushes and springs will fall out and it's a pain compared to a starter as the cap makes it hard to get them back on. You cannot disconnect wires at that end. Go insid ethe motor to get the wires off.
Assemble Notes:
1.) scrape out the 1/32" worth of corrosion on the block side of the motor where the pin is supoosed to go in it should slide through the block's holes by hand then tap through the plastic shims of the tilt piston's eyelet.
2.) Save yourself 30 minutes and Prefill the reservoir while the unit is on your table facing up so the whole thing gets filled, then prefill the cylinder with the piston down but up just enough for the cap to be open to get the fluid bottle nozzle in to fill it up. Connect, lift up tilt and install pin.
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