Sport-craft restore

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
I have begun my restore thanks to getting my boat back (minus motor) from my boat man and a warm weekend. Now I have snow on the ground:( I have been planning on this since May so I have done some serious reading on iboats and other sources got all sorts of ideas. I thought I had lots of wet foam because the boat seemed heavy from my experience and the way the boat sat in the water, well ripped most of the deck out and to my surprise, no foam at all. One problem that don't have to be dealt with. Deck was more water than solid wood don't know why it didn't flex with my big butt all over it. Center stringer is completely rotted but the fiberglass is intact. Haven't examined (internally) the outer ones yet. I've read where the top of the stringer can be cut off and resin thickened with fibers poured into the cavity, of course all wood removed prior to pouring. Comments on this are welcomed. What is the minimal thickness of plywood i can use for a deck which will be glassed? It will be sitting on the foam as well as stringers.
 

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Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: Sport-craft restore

We're gunna need more info? What kind of boat is this? How big is it? What year is it? I don't think anyone on this forum would ever recommend cutting the top of the stringer and pouring thickened resin and fibers into the old glass to make your stringers. You Might get away with that using a product like Seacast or Nida Core. The Size of the boat and the distances between the stringers and bulkheads will have a lot to do with the thickness of your deck. Probably 1/2" will be the minimal thickness to use. Post some pics of the overal boat and keep asking questions. We're here to help, but the devil's in the details. Make sure and wear your PPE when doing the demo work.
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

16ft. C-Gull, Sport-Craft '70. Only two bulkheads.DSCI0013.JPG
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

Ok I need some engineering help and some will think I'm crazy; but anything I do will be better than what I have. Here is what the boat has been through; 2 to 4ft waves and white caps at times near full throttle several times the last two seasons. The boat did not sink and didn't pump out much water out of the bilge either. These conditions aren't unusual on the lake either 30mph wind in Kansas is a gentle breeze.

When I opened up the deck what I found was: no foam, the fiberglass on the stringers were intact but the wood core was gone, deck was was so rotted I still can't believe I didn't have a foot go through it(only glassed on one side), no floation foam what so ever.

Here is what I'm thinking: Cut the tops off the stringers and pour in 8lb foam, then grind the glass on the sides and apply more glass on the sides and cap the tops. For the deck; 1/2 in plywood (maybe a little less) glass both sides, tie into the stringers then pour foam I haven't decided yet between 2 or 4lbs. Woodonglass I know you are against but I did look at your options in detail, very educational research.

You guys on here weren't joking about the craftsmanship that goes on under the deck; I'm not a neat freak but I would have done a better job before I reading up on fiberglassing.

This boat is used for fishing and I only paid $500. So far my investment has been $1500 for a different engine and new seats.
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Sport-craft restore

the boat has been done before........let me find a link for you.....hang on
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Sport-craft restore

this is a responce i typed for another thread...

you could use foam as a form for stringers and just glass over the foam. (you would need to protect the foam from the resin, the resin will eat the foam)
you would really have to glass it good.....2-3 inches wide....and really glass the contact area and the corners.....and as much as 5 layers of 1708.
You want to think I beam when you are glassing.....the more curves there is to the glass....the stronger it will be.

The trade off here is the weight for the home builder...
The wood AND glass method, is generally very light....(there is a big difference between the amount of resin being used at a factory via chopper gun, and a home builder with a resin bucket and a fuzzy roller).


that was for almost the same situation.....
the trade off is weight......
in your case......using the old glass to use as a form could be done.......but i think its easier to cut out the old glass and start fresh....its an extra hour work.....and it will save you headaches in the long run.......what happens if the last builder used waxed resin to do the stringers ?.....you will have no bond. and thats not good.

woodie is correct with the half inch deck.....glassed both sides.
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Sport-craft restore

Done before? oops you can find anything or done everything.

the boat has been done before......the foam is factory......it MUST BE THERE or the boat would never have passed uscg standards for factory building.

so someone has rebuilt the boat.

they botched the job......
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

this is a responce i typed for another thread...

you could use foam as a form for stringers and just glass over the foam. (you would need to protect the foam from the resin, the resin will eat the foam)
you would really have to glass it good.....2-3 inches wide....and really glass the contact area and the corners.....and as much as 5 layers of 1708.
You want to think I beam when you are glassing.....the more curves there is to the glass....the stronger it will be.

The trade off here is the weight for the home builder...
The wood AND glass method, is generally very light....(there is a big difference between the amount of resin being used at a factory via chopper gun, and a home builder with a resin bucket and a fuzzy roller).


that was for almost the same situation.....
the trade off is weight......
in your case......using the old glass to use as a form could be done.......but i think its easier to cut out the old glass and start fresh....its an extra hour work.....and it will save you headaches in the long run.......what happens if the last builder used waxed resin to do the stringers ?.....you will have no bond. and thats not good.

woodie is correct with the half inch deck.....glassed both sides.

Would I have to worry about waxed resin if I do some (more like a lot) grinding and wipe with acetone?

So is my idea sound compared to what I have now? Reason why I'm not taking out the stringers is my lack of skills. Might have a lot more when I get done with this.
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

the boat has been done before......the foam is factory......it MUST BE THERE or the boat would never have passed uscg standards for factory building.

so someone has rebuilt the boat.

they botched the job......

Was foam required in 1970? Who ever did the glass were sloppy, looks like they just dropped the cloth and poured resin. Surprised I didn't go for a long swim.
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Sport-craft restore

this is going to take me a while to type bill ....hang on....
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Sport-craft restore

Would I have to worry about waxed resin if I do some (more like a lot) grinding and wipe with acetone?

So is my idea sound compared to what I have now? Reason why I'm not taking out the stringers is my lack of skills. Might have a lot more when I get done with this.

you would need to grind off the top layer of waxed resin to get any kind of bond to the old glass.......being new with a grinder.....i will GAURENTEE you will go thru the old glass that covers the stringer, and most likely the hull it self......but dont worry....it is an easy fix.
wax is a release agent....poly resin....or for that fact even epoxy will not properly bond to a waxed surface......so all the wax must be ground off....no amount of acetone will wash it off....it is in the matrix of the resin now.

the idea of adding a resin based filler to your stringer area is an old one....products like seacast.....are commonly used . but are very expensive.
a resin.chopped strand filler could be used......but for a novice....i would not recommend it....there are many factors that can go wrong. factors like an improper resin to glass mixture....this will make the resin very brittle....
also....if you use too much resin filler at one time.....the heat during cure will build up.....and cook the resin ....this will give you a very weak product......if you hit it with a screw driver handle too hard....it will break.

this is not to mention that when you are giriding....you will burn through the glass....causing a hole for the resin to leak out of......in some cases...the burn thrugh might be a few inches long.....that means no wall to hold your resin mix.

so....as you can tell.....while in theory...it might be a strong idea...in a practical application, it might not be the best for you......there are other far more easy ways to give you the same results you want, with out worrying about cooked resin and is the stringer is actually strong enough to do the job you need it to do.

one of the easy ways you can build a stringer......is to sister a piece of wood to the existing good stringer, then glass the whole shabang......this is kind of a hack job.....but it works.

i think the real problem is that you are afraid of your skill level........

well.......just don't you worry about that......we can walk you right thru it.......this is not a hard thing to do....
there is many of iboater that cannot tell a rivet from a screw, and we have taken right thru a full gut job on a boat, and came out with a great product.....

trust us.....do what we suggest.....and you will have a really great long lasting boat.

when i started my project.....i did not know very much about boat building.....now i own a boat rebuilding company, and there is NOTHING in a boat that I am afraid to do.

if i may suggest........read the first 16 pages of the thread in my signature (just forget about the extension stuff.....just look at the transom and stringer info)......and check out friscoboater's boat build threads. both of these threads are stickys in the how to section on the top of this forum. there is also another thread in the completed projects section called skanky beast re visited. until i did my project it was the forum "how to".

continue with your gut job.......get everything out of the boat......the deck off....and get it clean......then take something called a core sample......this will tell you how far the rotten wood goes (under the glass) tell us.......and we can guide you to the fastest cheapest way to rebuild your boat.

by the way......i am currently following about 60 threads here at iboats and i will try to follow this one as close as i can......but if you get stuck.....and our guys here dont have the answer......just send me a pm with the link to your thread....and i will jump in.......but there are some really good guys here that know there stuff.....

ok....im getting dragged to bed now.......hockey game in the morning......

cheers
oops

btw...

foam was manditory in 72......but most builders were using foam as early as 62....and by the mid 60's it was in almost every boat in some form or other.
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

you would need to grind off the top layer of waxed resin to get any kind of bond to the old glass.......being new with a grinder.....i will GAURENTEE you will go thru the old glass that covers the stringer, and most likely the hull it self......but dont worry....it is an easy fix.
wax is a release agent....poly resin....or for that fact even epoxy will not properly bond to a waxed surface......so all the wax must be ground off....no amount of acetone will wash it off....it is in the matrix of the resin now.

the idea of adding a resin based filler to your stringer area is an old one....products like seacast.....are commonly used . but are very expensive.
a resin.chopped strand filler could be used......but for a novice....i would not recommend it....there are many factors that can go wrong. factors like an improper resin to glass mixture....this will make the resin very brittle....
also....if you use too much resin filler at one time.....the heat during cure will build up.....and cook the resin ....this will give you a very weak product......if you hit it with a screw driver handle too hard....it will break.

this is not to mention that when you are giriding....you will burn through the glass....causing a hole for the resin to leak out of......in some cases...the burn thrugh might be a few inches long.....that means no wall to hold your resin mix.

so....as you can tell.....while in theory...it might be a strong idea...in a practical application, it might not be the best for you......there are other far more easy ways to give you the same results you want, with out worrying about cooked resin and is the stringer is actually strong enough to do the job you need it to do.

one of the easy ways you can build a stringer......is to sister a piece of wood to the existing good stringer, then glass the whole shabang......this is kind of a hack job.....but it works.

i think the real problem is that you are afraid of your skill level........

well.......just don't you worry about that......we can walk you right thru it.......this is not a hard thing to do....
there is many of iboater that cannot tell a rivet from a screw, and we have taken right thru a full gut job on a boat, and came out with a great product.....

trust us.....do what we suggest.....and you will have a really great long lasting boat.

when i started my project.....i did not know very much about boat building.....now i own a boat rebuilding company, and there is NOTHING in a boat that I am afraid to do.

if i may suggest........read the first 16 pages of the thread in my signature (just forget about the extension stuff.....just look at the transom and stringer info)......and check out friscoboater's boat build threads. both of these threads are stickys in the how to section on the top of this forum. there is also another thread in the completed projects section called skanky beast re visited. until i did my project it was the forum "how to".

continue with your gut job.......get everything out of the boat......the deck off....and get it clean......then take something called a core sample......this will tell you how far the rotten wood goes (under the glass) tell us.......and we can guide you to the fastest cheapest way to rebuild your boat.

by the way......i am currently following about 60 threads here at iboats and i will try to follow this one as close as i can......but if you get stuck.....and our guys here dont have the answer......just send me a pm with the link to your thread....and i will jump in.......but there are some really good guys here that know there stuff.....

ok....im getting dragged to bed now.......hockey game in the morning......

cheers
oops

btw...

foam was manditory in 72......but most builders were using foam as early as 62....and by the mid 60's it was in almost every boat in some form or other.

oops, already read your thread on your boat extension the whole thing, took a few days.

I steered away from seacast mainly for the cost and I'm trying to keep my boat light which lead me towards the 8lb foam because of it properties. I have read about sister stringers seemed like a bigger headache than what I'm trying to do. I'm saving my money to put into my transom which is worse than I thought and must be removed.

It doesn't take me long to learn to use tools, the thought of going through the hull will be motivation enough. It's the other things like fiberglassing is what I have been reading up on. I know there are some really talented guys on here that's why this is the only boating site I''m a member of.

I still got a lot of work to do before I get into the contruction phase so I got choices. From what I have seen so far the center stringer the wood is more like pulp, the outer ones require more examination. I still got some decking to remove.

Since you are in the boat business any idea how much my boat should weigh? Found an old brochure that is close to my boat, says it should weigh 700lbs. I'm close to 300 over that. The brochures doesn't give any details but it's the best I have found. I've taken 157lbs out so far and 112lbs of it was soggy wood, the other was a steel plate mounted on the transom. That won't be going back on it when I get done for sure. I'm assuming that even if I don't get my weight down it will go through the water better since the weight will be more distrubute since most of the wet soggy wood and the steel plated was at the rear of the boat. Can't believe this boat has grown on me.

I'm off to bed too, hope your team wins. Thanks for the help.
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Sport-craft restore

how far are you from Kansas City Missouri?

if you are not that far......there is a place called cook composites... they have classes in glassing.....

it is very easy....but between my thread and friscos videos....you will find all the info you need....its not that hard at all....you can do this....
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Sport-craft restore

oh....sorry.......as far as the weight.....it varies with the equipment on board the boat....single bench seat....or dual back to backs.....open or closed bow....ect...

but ill do some investigating for you
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

how far are you from Kansas City Missouri?

if you are not that far......there is a place called cook composites... they have classes in glassing.....

it is very easy....but between my thread and friscos videos....you will find all the info you need....its not that hard at all....you can do this....

I'm about 2-3hrs from KC depending on which side it's on. Thanks for the info.
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

oh....sorry.......as far as the weight.....it varies with the equipment on board the boat....single bench seat....or dual back to backs.....open or closed bow....ect...

but ill do some investigating for you

Thanks. If I was smart I should have weighed it after the moter was off but I went to work on it when I got the boat back. But the owners manual tells me what the motor weighs so it should be easy. I did my weighing with it stripped down to a basic boat; no battery, no fuel, no gps or fishfinder. Just a boat and engine even got the weight of the trailer.

I just want to get it down so I can get all the speed out of it I can with what I have. Had an 18ft of similar design with a 50hp and it would get up to about 35mph didn't have gps back then. But I can tell this one is slower. I can get about 29.7 on gps and the boat speedometer say 26-27 if it is working right.

So am I correct in my thinking I will get better speed if I get my weigh distributed back to way it's supposed to be and not in the back digging into the water?

Been rereading your thread again. Great reading even the second time.
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

BTW, between your threads and frisco's videos I have been educated. Just wish I had my own garage to do the work in, I'd be living in it except for school and work.
 

tallcanadian

Captain
Joined
Sep 7, 2006
Messages
3,250
Re: Sport-craft restore

If this was my boat, I wouldn't do half a job. Replace the stringers, deck and more than likely you will need to replace the transom. For the extra work you won't regret it. You will have a boat that will outlast you. This sounds like it's been done before but because it wasn't done right it rotted more. These SportCraft boats are nice but I'm quite sure it wasn't originally built without foam. Just my two cents worth. I totally rebuilt mine and not once had any regrets. Good luck.
 
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