Sport-craft restore

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Bill3434

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Well now I have a one piece transom! It was glued and screwed today. I used titebond III recommended by WOG, it took about 10-12 oz. I had one area that required additional clamping which is what you see in the pic. Because of the cold temps, I put the glue in frong of a space heater and heated up the wood prior to glueing. Once all the screws were in place, I put lights on the surface to maintain a warm tempature.DSCI0182 (Small).JPGDSCI0180 (Small).JPG
 
tallcanadian

tallcanadian

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Lookin Good there Bill. It's nice to have that much done. Any idea when your putting it in?
 
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Bill3434

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Still have a little bit of shaping to do and prep work. Then it will be up to mother nature and temps. I do most of the work on the weekends.
 
Woodonglass

Woodonglass

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Looking good!! R U going to drill some "OOZE" holes?
 
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Bill3434

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Thought about your tip WOG. Where do you put them or are there considerations for placing them?
 
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Bill3434

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Thanks, that answered the questions I have so far. Until I get to my boat and have a brain fart. My transom didn't straighten out after being clamped and hot lights on it for a week. I tried to bow my transom some by applying some weight on it and letting it sit for a week, but the wood really is strong and inflexible.

Awsome pics on the link you pasted.
 
Woodonglass

Woodonglass

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Re: Sport-craft restore

If your transom is a bowed transom outer skin then you will need to make the transom wood bowed to match the curve of the outer skin. You do this by using 4 layers of 3/8" Ext. Grade Plywood and internal bracing to hold the curve while the glue dries.
 
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Bill3434

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Re: Sport-craft restore

It's only bowed where the engine hangs and it easily clamps to the transom. It looks like it got that way because of the bad transom I took out.
 
Woodonglass

Woodonglass

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Okie Dokie! Just wanted to make sure. Got some nice weather this week..You gunna install it?
 
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Bill3434

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Re: Sport-craft restore

I might make it. I need the outside temp to be at least 47 degrees to glass. This weekend as of right now ain't looking to promising. Had to order some more resin after reading the link you sent me last night. Hate to run out in the middle of a transom job.
 
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Bill3434

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Well I now have the transom glassed and sanded finally. Now I have a question; can I mix some 1/4in fibers with the putty mix for add strength? How much putty will I need to make? My transom measurements are: 63in w/top x54 w/bottom x 24in height.
 
tallcanadian

tallcanadian

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Re: Sport-craft restore

In putty do you mean peanut butter? If so then yes add the fibers for added strength. I'm assuming you coated the transom with resin? And now your ready to install it? I used a full gallon for my transom. I mixed it a quart at a time. It would help if you had a mixing partner. This makes this job so much easier. I used a trowel to spread the mixture around and had a nice even coat on both the new wood and transom. Are you making clamps to hold this in place? These were mine....

DSCF0304.jpg


DSCF0305.jpg
 
jbcurt00

jbcurt00

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Adding 1/4" fibers in to the PB makes it HAIRY PB, ideal for structural applications..... Transoms apply ;)

1 qt of PB does about 5 sq ft. of Transom and outer skin using a 3/8" notched trowel.. To maximize contact & minimize voids you apply PB to both surfaces...

So your @ 5'X2' Transom & transom skin (10SqFt each) will need almost 4qts of PB......

You can use 1/4" milled fibers from your glass & resin supplier, or you can make very similar by cutting up your CSM scraps....

TC has ya covered too.

Review the details here: "Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms"
Note the additional 1/2" holes to allow the PB to ooze out & help release air as you clamp the transom in place. The WOG transom clamps are very useful!
 
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Bill3434

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Thanks jbcurt00 and tallcanadian. I have my clamps made already and have practice using them. I just ordered some cabisol, I have 3M glass bubbles but after doing some reading from US Composites not sure they were what I needed for the transom. Rather be safe than sorry something about a motor falling off scares the crap out of me.

On another note if any has followed this thread the transom that I took out weighed 37lbs and the one that is going in weighs 37.8. My estimate after completed should be about 41lbs and solid as a rock. Not water logged and rotted.
 
jbcurt00

jbcurt00

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Microballoons make a fairly thin filler for smoothing & fairing. EASY to sand. You may need them too.. If you find that cabosil only filler is just a bit too thick to work into smaller repairs, you can use a little less cabosil & some balloons in the same amount of resin & it'll be just a little thinner. Balloon filler helps fill in pin holes & small defects left behind in sanded gel coat &/or previous glass repairs, before you get to the fill & fair stage.
 
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Bill3434

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Thanks, jb. I figured I would find a use for them. Shortcuts on my transom is not an option plus if it needs to be done again I will be to old to launch a boat, hehehehe.
 
tallcanadian

tallcanadian

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Bill3434 said:
Thanks jbcurt00 and tallcanadian. I have my clamps made already and have practice using them. I just ordered some cabisol, I have 3M glass bubbles but after doing some reading from US Composites not sure they were what I needed for the transom. Rather be safe than sorry something about a motor falling off scares the crap out of me.

On another note if any has followed this thread the transom that I took out weighed 37lbs and the one that is going in weighs 37.8. My estimate after completed should be about 41lbs and solid as a rock. Not water logged and rotted.
Click to expand...

Yeah, you sort of get the warm and fuzzy and safe feeling. Imagine how you will feel when it's all done.
 
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